HELP!!!-One MOnth Later & My Car Still Won't Start!!!

A month ago my SPECTRA broke down on the highway,and I had to have it wrecked home.

Since then, I've bought and replaced the IAC VALVE, CRANK SENSOR, & CAM SENSOR (just changed the cam sensor minutes ago).

I also checked all the fuses, had the injectors and injector rail cleaned, and checked the fuel lines in the engine bay to see if fuel is reaching the injectors.

Much to my frustration,after all of the time and $$$$$ spent, the car still won't start.

I'm honestly at my whits end at this point and I don't know what again to do or look for! :-(

I'm desperately hoping that someone reads this post and would be able to shed some light on this costly month long dilemma. Worst case scenario, I think I might seriously consider just selling the car and moving on.

What test's have you run?
Was there any Diagnostic Trouble codes (DTC)?

1) Fuel pressure test
2) Battery + alternator load test
3) Compression test
4) Spark

Were there any test's have you run?
Was there any Diagnostic Trouble codes (DTC)?

1) Fuel pressure test
2) Battery + alternator load test
3) Compression test
4) Spark

There was a trouble code,which I erased accidentally when the car was sitting on the side of the highway ( critical error, I know!)

I think the code was P0341 - cam sensor or something like that .

Ok, I'm in the middle of doing the needed tests, and here's what I've found so far.

1: Fuel is reaching as far as the injectors.
I disconnected the fuel line that goes to the injector rail and cranked the engine. Fuel began shooting right up from the line.

Then I loosed the two bolts that holds the fuel rail to the engine block and tilted the entire rail upwards. When I cranked the engine again, fuel squirted from the injectors, but I'll admit, the injector closest to the right hand side of the engine seemed to squirt the least. Which brings me to this question: How powerful does the injectors squirt?

2:I have spark

I did the spark plug test and I got a spark on all 4 wires.I did find that the spark was a bit weak though.


Finally, I bought a can of start fluid and when I sprayed it into the throttle, the car would hesitate a bit, but still, it would start and idle for 5-10 seconds and go dead again.


I'm no expert but judging by how the engine responded to the starting fluid, I'm almost now convinced that the issue is a fuel issue.

In such a scenario, is it possible that fuel car reach as far as the fuel injectors and still he car won't start? If so, then what factors can affect this?

A simple fuel pressure test at the schrader valve on the fuel rail is alot safer, it takes alot a fuel pressure togo through a fuel injector.

Spark is good, but don't rule out the fuel pressure yet.

A simple fuel pressure test at the schrader valve on the fuel rail is alot safer, it takes alot a fuel pressure togo through a fuel injector.

Spark is good, but don't rule out the fuel pressure yet.

***UPDATE**

Over the last weekend, I was able to pinpoint that the fuel pressure is really low so after some reading online, I'm lead to believe that the fuel pressure regulator may be the source.

I ordered a new one on amazon a few minutes ago. Hope this can really be th eend of this nightmare.

**UPDATE**

I installed a brand new fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator this afternoon but unfortunately, still no success! http://www.streetkiaz.com/streetkiazx/uploads/smil3dbd4d75edb5e.gif

When I disconnect the fuel line under the seat, the pressure is way better than it was before but on the other hand, the pressure in the engine compartment is still very low.

What in the world can be causing this to happen? Do these cars carry an external fuel filter? If so, where is it located?

No external fuel filter. Install an inline fuel pressure gauge @ fuel rail and check pressure. normal psi KOEO(key on engine off) or start pressure is around 40-45 psi. also check DTC's again. If the vehicle starts on starting fluid it obviously has a fuel problem. Check for obstructions in line, kinked line, clogged injectors. If you have good pressure @ rail its got to be in the rail injectors.

The injectors are controlled by the ecm. The ecm reads inputs from many different sensors on the engine and calculates injector pulse and duration. The injectors are controlled by a ground through the ecm...so the injectors should have a constant 12v on one of the 2 injector connector pins. Knowing dtc's is very critical in finding a fault in a sensor that controls the injectors.

How many miles are on this car?
A voltage & clicking sound doesn't mean the injectors are working proper.
One miss on a 4-cycle engine can cause 25% hp gone on a 4-cylinder motor.
A local diesel shop can do a micro bath, and test the flow rate on injectors

One of the 1st test's on a Auto for a tuneup is to do a compression test on each cylinder & check the crank to valve timing with cylinder 1 @ TDC.