Taking off spark plug cover?

Hey guys - new here and to start off I own a 2000 Lincoln LS v8 with about 124k miles. Got her at about 90k miles and over all it has been a pretty decent car other than having to change the spark plugs and coil packs once before about a year ago.

Last year when it had to be done, I only had to change one of the 1-4 plugs which essentially wasn't too difficult after removing the intake - but this year coil #7 went out and all I can really say is it has been somewhat of a hassle.

I started off with only a 1/2 socket drive and a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 extender to take off the bolts over the sparkplug casing. Found out I could only get the easy bolts off that way so I went and bought me a 1/4 drive wratchet as well. Things have gone pretty smooth since other than the very last bolt - just can't get that sucker off. It's the bolt that is the very far back, bottom bolt. I've tried getting it off a little bit but it seems atleast as of yet, that I'll need to take out the brake booster because I just don't have quite enough room to squeeze the 7mm bit plus wratchet in there with any sort of room for it to fully fit over the bolt.

What I'm asking is, if the brake booster needs to come out to get these bolts off, how do I go about doing so without breaking anything (its about 20 degrees here so I notice that some plastic connecters become more brittle than flexible), OR if that bolt is available to get off without really taking anything out on the driver-side casing, could I please get some tips on being able to do so? If needed, I can take a few pictures with my phone to give a better idea, but I have a feeling most of you folks have done this and are probably chuckling at a little tip or trick I happen to be missing lol. Any help would be much appreciated :).

Thanks, Skylar

when you get into this you eather do it the hard way or loosen top moter mount in front and pry the moter forwards to get to it the easy way if i'm thinking rite.

Ah woof. Easy way by loosing the top motor mount and moving it forward? Ah I'm starting to think this LS wasn't the best buy in my book in regards to not having much money. I have to admit the only tools I have are flathead/phillips screwdriver, hammer, and a wratchet/socket set from 1/4 to 1/2 drives and all mm/inch sockets to fit. This endeavor has gone pretty well except for that last daggum bolt by the brake booster, and I'm hoping once that puppy comes off the rest shouldn't be too bad.

Do you think upon replacing the boot, should I get a new gasket in terms of the cover-plate? As far as I know theres no real problems with it though I haven't been able to check in yet to see if theres a reservoir of oil or not down there, but assuming not - is it one of those gaskets that needs to be replaced once sealed/opened (once put on, tighetened down on top, and then taken back off) like I know head gaskets, etc. are? Or hopefully I ought to be good to go?

I've tried searching a little bit on here through the forums, and thus far it seems like the only solution as for my problem is I ought to get a 7mm gear wrench. You guys think that'll fit no problem? Because it looks like it would have to do a little curve or something the way it all looks, or I just gotta be flexible with my fingers. Good thing I'm a musician! haha. Thanks all

Ah woof. Easy way by loosing the top motor mount and moving it forward? Ah I'm starting to think this LS wasn't the best buy in my book in regards to not having much money. I have to admit the only tools I have are flathead/phillips screwdriver, hammer, and a wratchet/socket set from 1/4 to 1/2 drives and all mm/inch sockets to fit. This endeavor has gone pretty well except for that last daggum bolt by the brake booster, and I'm hoping once that puppy comes off the rest shouldn't be too bad.

Do you think upon replacing the boot, should I get a new gasket in terms of the cover-plate? As far as I know theres no real problems with it though I haven't been able to check in yet to see if theres a reservoir of oil or not down there, but assuming not - is it one of those gaskets that needs to be replaced once sealed/opened (once put on, tighetened down on top, and then taken back off) like I know head gaskets, etc. are? Or hopefully I ought to be good to go?

I've tried searching a little bit on here through the forums, and thus far it seems like the only solution as for my problem is I ought to get a 7mm gear wrench. You guys think that'll fit no problem? Because it looks like it would have to do a little curve or something the way it all looks, or I just gotta be flexible with my fingers. Good thing I'm a musician! haha. Thanks all no if it looks good to you i wouldn't replace the gasket unless they have it in stock and you don't trust it?

Ah alright, just making sure and thank you for the tip :) How difficult is it to "lift the engine" while loosening the top motor bolt? I live just by myself with my mom who is disabled, so in terms of getting help for it, essentially I'm by myself when it comes to doing anything physical in regards to that, so if I need a cherry picker - looks like I'm outta luck haha. Do you have a 3.9V8 LS? If so and you've changed the spark plugs, how did you manage to get the plugs for 5-8 out, or rather the plate on top?

you don't have a friend to help you for a minute? you could try a 2x4 in back by firewall but watch where you put it make sure everything is clear that you prying on. shouldn't take but a minute to get plug out if you got everything ready. theres no room to get to it by taking wheel off is there you may want to take a look?

Negative. Don't have the highest number of friends haha, and I have one thats in town from the Marines, but he just had ankle surgury so is probably not the best to help me - and I have my brother across town, but he's been blowing me off so I'm stuck to myself haha. I don't understand what you mean to take off the wheel and take a look?

Negative. Don't have the highest number of friends haha, and I have one thats in town from the Marines, but he just had ankle surgury so is probably not the best to help me - and I have my brother across town, but he's been blowing me off so I'm stuck to myself haha. I don't understand what you mean to take off the wheel and take a look? i was just wandering if you take left front wheel off and have enough room to wiggle your hand and socket in there to remove plug? if not your going to have to pry moter forwards unless someone can tell you a easier way?


good luck...

scrapper...

With the right wrenches, you can remove the cover and the coil without removing any components or moving the engine (it's still a pain though).

7mm(Open end/ box end) mini ratchet works great for COP covers.

3/8'' ratchet wrench, 3/8'' extenshion, and 3/8'' universal joint socket adapter, and a 3/8'' Long socket for Spark plug removal.

Note- Iridium spark plugs should last 100kmiles.
Visual inspect for oil, and rust(water) contamintaion on old plugs, this could cause a misfire.

Alright. Managed to finally get that last bolt off - sucks I keep having to get new tools since I'm so low on money... Got the plate off after a little finagling, and got the cool pack off....

Theres oil on the coilpack - as far as I could tell, there wasn't any leaking coming through the casing, and theres no oil on top. Just inside of the sparkplug hole to my own surprise. I pray the coil can still be used. There was oil around the outside rubber casing, and a tiny bit on the inside of the coil, but luckily not enough to reach the inside of the little metal on the inside of the coil - only about a quarter-3/8'' on the inside but I cleaned it out so I hope and pray it should be good to go.

But now I went to check the spark plug and there was a decent bit of oil down there. Took a screw driver with a paper towel around it to try dabbing it all up. Got a decent little bit out so atleast the coil made a good seal around the sparkplug in terms of the oil around it.

Finally got about as much as I could get with the screwdriver/paper towel combo (actually the blue shop towelettes), and I put the spark plug-bit with extension down there and more oil globbed around it, so I dabbed it in there 3 times thus far and theres less and less oil coming out, but still there is oil coming out.

Any more efficient methods of getting it out? I really hope I don't have to get me a u-joint connector, but atleast if I do it will be useful for if I ever have to do it again. I got a 2 or 3'' extender with the 3/8 drive wrench cause I do notice with it and the sparkplug bit down the whole, it roundabout comes out flush with 1/4 inch or so above the circle in the hole.

So hopefully you guys could get all the questions answered that I posed in there. If not, I suppose roundabout what is your opinion on the coil-pack and usability? Is this the norm of how it ought to be or not? What are the efficient ways of getting the oil that is down in the sparkplug hole aroun the plug out? Is it a necessity that I get the 3/8'' u-joint to be able to get it out? Thanks guys for all the replies.

Skylar

EDIT: for any of those that are possibly going through the same problem that I went through earlier in trying to get it off - dude above is right just get a normal 7mm open wrench. I got the 7mm gear wrench with the open side and geared closed end. Completely useless with the gear because I couldn't fit my hand to put it into position where it would be of use, so I just mm'ed it out with the open end and got that puppy to come off. Thanks again

1) Use CRC Electric cleaner to clean plug, COP, and spark plug boss.

Your spark plug boss seal is leaking oil, which will cause a misfire.

2) Remove all plugs on Bank 2(cylinders 5-8), do another inspection on all plugs, and COP's?

How many Spark plug boss seals are leaking?

If only 1 boss , make a condom, and use dielectric grease to help prevent the leaky spark plug boss seal from misfires.

If >2 ,Need new Spark plug boss seals and valve cover gasket.

I have to ask, what is a "CRC electric cleaner"? Which is the spark plug boss seal? Sorry I'm a mechanical newbie when it comes to this, but would you say this would be achievable to do by morning time? And how much in extra parts $ wise would you say it would cost to get all these things? Got probation early in the morning that I can't reschedule :banghead: atleast I'm done with all the crap that got me in trouble so in the future I won't have to deal with little bits like that. Thanks for the quick replies man

CRC Electrical cleaner canbe bought at any local Auto parts store, it's used to clean electrical parts.

The Spark plug boss seals, are sealed in the valve cover, these seals keep the oil from getting into the spark plug boss.

Are you just getting one misfire?

CRC Electrical cleaner canbe bought at any local Auto parts store, it's used to clean electrical parts.

The Spark plug boss seals, are sealed in the valve cover, these seals keep the oil from getting into the spark plug boss.

Are you just getting one misfire?

How much should I expect getting the CRC cleaner price wise?

So the boss seals are NOT the valve cover or anything to do with that, but something along the coil packs?

Yeah it was only the #7 misfiring. Took it to autozone and they did a code check and thats what it came up, though I do have to admit from before the CEL came on, it didn't stutter bad, where as now that it is on, I got it checked, and though it isn't a furious misfire, but it is definitely noticable - more so when light-heavy on the throttle (basically when I bog it down to accellerate, I either have to punch the throttle to get it going and then just lightly go on the gas to keep it going. If I semi-heavy press on the throttle where its inbetween those two points, thats when it misfires, or atleast stutters the most). I guess I'm headed to the auto store to get me the 3/8 u-joint. I don't take it the CRC cleaner is under 10-20 bucks is it? lol

EDIT: just googled the CRC electric cleaner - see atleast online it was only all of about 8 bucks. How does one use it? Just spray down the hole and it basically completely dissipates all the oil down there? Or do I spray it down there, let it settle, and put something down there to get back up the residue? Thanks amigo

You need to replace the valve cover gaskets. The O-rings for the plug wells come with the gasket set.
A shop vac with a piece of small tubing at the end of the cleaner hose can be used to suck the oil and any dirt out of the plug wells.
You need to replace all the COPs (coils). If you don't you will really regret having to do most of this over again. Trust me on this.
All the plugs should be replaced too.

It sounds like we are on a very tight budget!
If only on cylinder 7, lets do the cleaning on cylinder 7 COP, Spark plug, and boss 1st.

Caution - Make sure you don't drop the little black clip going to the COP connector, it will land in the spark plug boss, and you will need a shop-vac to get it out.


If only one bad boss, you can make a condom for the spark plug from a spare spark plug boot.

The idea is to protect the spark plug from oil, so it doesn't short out & misfire.

It sounds like we are on a very tight budget!
If only on cylinder 7, lets do the cleaning on cylinder 7 COP, Spark plug, and boss 1st.

Caution - Make sure you don't drop the little black clip going to the COP connector, it will land in the spark plug boss, and you will need a shop-vac to get it out.


If only one bad boss, you can make a condom for the spark plug from a spare spark plug boot.

The idea is to protect the spark plug from oil, so it doesn't short out & misfire.

I understand the tight budget, but unfortunately the LS and its COPs do not.

If the money was there, I would buy new valve cover gaskets, spark plug boss seals, and 3rd generation secondary cam chain tensioners.

After cleaning the plug + COP, see COP Test http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=906504

Sorry for moment of no response, didn't see it got to page 2! I went to the auto parts store and got the CRC cleaner and u-joint for 3/8 drive socket, goin' lazy for a moment and watching survivor... lol.

Man I have to admit, I feel like a complete idiot, but I'm still not sure as of what the "boss" is. I hear you joe on replacing all of them, but unfortunately money is beyond tight so I gotta do with what can atleast give me about 2 months of leeway. It sucks, but thats what it's gotta be, and hopefully by the end of that time if it starts to foul again - hopefully thats not the case, I'll just have to go back and do it again. Atleast I'll have the tools needed to do so atleast lol.

So what exactly is the boss? I haven't gotten the sparkplug out yet, but I did spray the CRC down the hole for it down a little bit ago so somewhat waiting on it to clean it up. Hopefully it should dissipate it on its own, worst case I'll have to use the tactic I used before with screwdriver-cloth/sparkplug bit to get out the residue if there is any. How do I make a 'condom' for the sparkplug? I'm assuming some type of protective covering up to the little electric diode on the opposing end of the spark plug so that way it'll be a sort of gasket for the coilpack up to that point where the spark goes to it, goes through the plug, to the firing end in the cylinder head, am I right? And another question - what is that black clip your talking about?

cliffs: What is the boss, the black clip mentioned, and how do I make the condom for the spark plug?

Hopefully I wrote back all that I'm trying to get across, thanks guys for all the input, God bless y'all.

The Spark plug boss is the actual tube, were the spark plug is housed.

The Spark plug condom is a piece of a spare plug boot, were you can slide on the spark plug befor the Coil on plug (COP).

When you connect the COP to the COP connector, the little black button piece seems to fall off.

Don't forget to do a COP Test, see http://www.automotiveforums.com/vgulletin/showthread.php?t=906504

Hmm damn. I know earlier when I put the spark plug socket bit down in the hole to clean out, i did notice a little black o-ring looking thing that was left in the bit. Tried getting it out with a screw-driver, and when I did so, I managed to drop it, it hit my shoe, and is somewhere underneath the car... Which has grass underneath it as well as its night time... Hopefully that isn't something completely useful, or rather just an essentially useless piece that came from the bit. Didn't look before hand, so I honestly dont know :eek:. Tried checking out link, but it didn't work for me, so I dunno whats up with that. Definitely recommend it before putting it back in though?

That little black rubber piece comes in the spark plug socket, so it grabes the spark plug when pulling out.

Alright update. Got all of the oil out of there finally. What finally got it was spraying two full sprays (bottle was upside down so got a good shoot apiece.), then twisted up a shop-blue-paper towel and put it down there and the first time was a good concoction of oil and the stuff, 2nd time, pretty much just the CRC). Now I'm at the spark plug. I got the little rubber o-ring back into the spark plug bit, but I'm thinking I need to go back out again and get a longer extension. As is, its about a 2" or so extension after the bits are said and done that makes it flush with the hole, then with the u-joing bout makes it flush to the lip of the casing with the coil packs. Been trying at it with the wrench to get it to turn but the plug is just too tight in there and it feels almost like I'm about to strip the plug. Its just super hard to turn, the u-joint makes it more odd, then it just goes THWACK, and i basically have to reset the bit ontop of the spark plug and try again... damn...

Any more tips or tricks? What size extension should I aim for if I need more?

Just use the Spark plug socket and extension to put the plug in.
When the plug is snug, than use ratchet wrench, and universal adapter.

Definitely once the point gets to that, I'll follow you, but I can't even get the first plug out to begin with :confused:. I'm thinking I just may have to get a bigger extension for the drive, but the auto place is closed and I'm driving an illegal car (out of date registration, no insurance) atm to that place, and walmart is too far away. Plus really low on gas. I reckon I'm going to re-try for it early in the morning so I can hopefully I will make probation. I guess worst case scenario I'll just have to bolt everything back up and rinse and repeat once I get back home. Pray for me that that won't be the case. Thanks for the reply man

I went thru this about 6 times. Too cheap to buy 8 coils at once... I ended up making a tool to get that last bolt off the coil/plug cover. Jut a 1/2" piece of 1/4 steel bar. A 24" length is available at HD for a couple of bucks. You will have 23.5" left over. Just put the steel piece in the 1/4 in 7mm socket and place it on the bolt. Then take a 1/4 inch open end wrench to to the steel piece to loosen it. Takes about a minute or two with all those 1/4 turns but your not bending or breaking anything. When it is loose enough, remove the steel piece and back out the bolt by hand. As far as oil in well... I remove the coil and get the blow nozzle from the air compressor to blow out debris and oil BEFOR removing the spark plug. Place a large shop towel over your arm and work area to absorb any oil splatter that WILL spray out. Hope this helps others that have coil/plug issues.