Another D16Z6

Alright, this is my first post, so some lube and a reach around would be welcome.

Sorry if this is long.

I have a limited budget. I have two kids and a few bills and am looking to buy a house soon. I will slowly being saving money for this as I go. I also have a second D16Z6 that I will be able to do all the work to and still be able to use my car. I also will be getting my fiance's '02 Civic to make my daily driver, allowing me to use my '94 hatch to use when the kids are not with me. :D

My Theory:

I am all about power to weight ratio. I have seen a ton of posts on how big American Iron can crush any import out there. I admit, the numbers that those productions cars are pushing are impressive, if you go by raw numbers, but when it comes to technology, there are a bit behind. As for their performance in handle, I am even more impressed! To make a 4000lb piece of glorified steel handle the way they do, they should be commended. "You're an outtrage against nature!!" ( the original Chuckie, the old Voodoo man)
So basically, I want to lose weight and gain power, and I have a couple of ideas for doing that, just look at the S2000R. It looks as thought the only remaining American car standing is the Viper, and do you thing they will let a Peasant Honda defeat the Champion Acura?

My Motivation:

I've been driving dirtbikes since I was 6 years old. When I was 9, I felt the best power to weight ratio I have ever felt on a KX80. I am looking for that again. I know I won't find it in this car!!! I am Don Quixote, but I do want to make this fly while it still looks like the day I drove it off the lot, but with after market rims. I also had a hand in helping my father fixing up his '91 CRX, and there is also a little battle going on between us. He has suspension and a B18C1 pushing 161 at the wheels. But when he and I go at it, he only pulls away from me slowly. Now, he is losing something because he has a valve problem. He has some blowby, but that is prompting him to get the motor rebuilt and looking for more power alternatives. He is 53 this year. OLD COOT!!!! I know, he's cooler than me!

My Subject:

I have a red '94 HB. Absolutely love the car. I also love the configuration. Now I know that the majority of you would say that I should put a B16A/B, 17A, 18A/B/C, 20B/Z or H22/23 in it because I CAN with my car and the truth be told, I did have a B18B (money issue) in it at one time. The had 4 bad bearings in the bottom end, so bought another D16Z6 and replace it for the on that I had destroyed one bearing in. To put a larger motor in the car goes against my belief. POWER TO WEIGHT. You start out by adding at least 100lbs to the car, upward of 200lbs for the H series. If I want to put a motor like that in my car than I should buy American to take to the drags. I am not a drag person, I love the corners. So here are my thoughts.

My Setup:

I have put on a custom exhaust, 2.5" all the way back with a 2.25" muffler, for some backpressure. I have a DC sports header, wrapped to go with that exhaust. A CAI and a chipped computer with better fuel maps. Nothing special, just basics.
I have a phenominal company in this area, though, with 40 years of engine work under their belt and seven shops that they have to rebuild these motors. Initially the worked on domestics, but are now in the import schene and have a 1000hp 3000GT motor on the dyno in ME. 40 years is a long time. I would ask them these questions, but because of liability, I think they stick to limiting their answers. So I can have them rebuild my engine to make it NA bulletproof and with any C/R pistons I want. What is a good CR, keeping it steetable and not sacrificing too much bottom end power. 10-11? I am also going to have them knife edge the crank for me. They also gaurantee, by stating it, 50-60 hp with their stage II port and polish. I will get a cam with that to, probably a Zex cam made more for the midrange. With that port and polish, they do a three angle valve job and say that is good for that mid range power curve. Now, should springs be something I should look at if my goal is an 8000-8500 rpm redline? Now, just to be different, from what I've seen, I am going to get rid of my power steering. There is a rack and pinion rack at my local junk yard that I am going to swap out and remove all that stupid weight and parasitic pump from the front end of my car. It will also allow me to get an Unorthodox racing underdrive pulley for the alt only, cutting down that power loss. I am going to put in a lightweight flywheel. To counteract the fact that the heavy flywheel is a good source of heat dissipation, I am going to put in a remote oil cooler and CP filter. I will also upgrade fuel with a pump, fuel rail, and pressure regulator. With NA, should I do injectors, or maybe prelude injectors, something of that sort. I don't know electrical. If there are any suggestions easy on the pocket you have, please give some. I also believe that Hondata is the best for me. Any yeas or neas with back data would be much appreciated. Does this setup sound like a 200 hp setup to you guys? When I saw how much lower my car sat because of the 100 extra lbs in the front end with the B18B, it didn't sit right with me. Any suggestions from all of you would be much appreciated.

I leave you with this. I saw a person in a BMW 525 last night trying to race someone in a mustang, swerving all over the place trying to egg them on, on an on-ramp (how else do I put that). So, naturally, I wanted in. :D As the traffic let me go I quickly caught up to him and we started to go at it. We were changing lanes to avoid traffic and when we both broke into the clear, I went from the far left lane to the far right lane behind him and when I got next to him, he tried to pull away, but was unable to. He let off at 125. Everyone has a limit. Wheres yours?

After reading your plan on the set up, it is pretty much what I am going after right now but I am just doning it slowly (money issue).

So far I am rebuilding the D16 head myself in a machine shop (with the help of a 35+ years experience engine rebuilder) with new exhaust guide, springs, three angle valve job, service deck, port and polish.

To me, overall Honda has a very well design head for air flow, so you don't have to do much to have it flow nicely. The thing with port and polishing Honda head is very critical because if you hog out too much, it will killed the low end so much that it is not even funny.

Right now I am flow testing the head and see if I can improve anymore air flow by going back and port and polishing out the restriction (this is the most time consuming part).

From what I remember in your post, you mention you are going to have the shop bulletproof the block, what excactly do they do to acheive that? Also if you want to red line the engine over 8000 RPM, you must change to a higher tension valve springs and upgrade the cam to a harder material.

In order to know what cam to use (more like what durations), you will need to do a flow test on the head and then by inputing the result data into a computer program to find the best cam (durations).

I suggest you not to buy any external upgrade until you have your engine rebuild, then you can go from there to match what you need.

I have already spent over $500 on the head alone and planning to finish the head and might sell it to make some money back instead, if the price is right. It will be at least 70% increase air flow with a new cam that is computer matching for cam lift and durations. If anyone is interested send me an email with your best offer.

just a couple points i'd like to add to all this....

first of all, any backpressure is bad, its been said a million times. Its not backpressure you want, but exhaust gas velocity. any restriction to the exhaust flow = bad.

And also, when people say "i want to gain power without losing low rpm power...." I say in response, its better to have torque at higher rpm than lower rpm because you can take advantage of gearing. so basically, using bigger exhaust piping and bigger intake piping to gain high rpm power is BETTER thanhaving stock low end power.. you are not losing the power it is simply moving up in the powerband and this is what you want to do anyways. IF YOU WANT TORQUE, BUY A V8. hondas are made to scream at high rpm, the same for any small displacement engine..

Originally posted by Tofuboy


From what I remember in your post, you mention you are going to have the shop bulletproof the block, what excactly do they do to acheive that? Also if you want to red line the engine over 8000 RPM, you must change to a higher tension valve springs and upgrade the cam to a harder material.



Here is the shops address, if you have nothing better to do, see what you think.

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

Originally posted by 91civicDXdude



just a couple points i'd like to add to all this....

first of all, any backpressure is bad, its been said a million times. Its not backpressure you want, but exhaust gas velocity. any restriction to the exhaust flow = bad.

And also, when people say "i want to gain power without losing low rpm power...." I say in response, its better to have torque at higher rpm than lower rpm because you can take advantage of gearing. so basically, using bigger exhaust piping and bigger intake piping to gain high rpm power is BETTER thanhaving stock low end power.. you are not losing the power it is simply moving up in the powerband and this is what you want to do anyways. IF YOU WANT TORQUE, BUY A V8. hondas are made to scream at high rpm, the same for any small displacement engine..



So, are you saying that 2.5 inch exhaust is too small and that I need to go larger? I thought some backpressure was good to keep the air fuel mixture in the cylinders. When I originally had the exhaust installed, the guy didn't put a resonator in it. Stupid loud! Then when he put one in, it was quieter and stronger, noticeably. I am a bit confused.

I checked out the site you posted regarding to rebuilding the block, I don't seem to see anything they do claims "bullet proof", but it's more like any other rebuilding job that gives you the option to put preformance parts into the block.

The shop sounds like a reliable place, but let's hope it is really the person who has the experience to do the job. Check with the company's police and warrenty first.

As I metion before you should not buy any bolt-ons until you have the engine rebuild. Getting an exhaust system is not as easy as what you think, you can't just slap on a DC or Apexi because someone tells you that is good, especailly when you have your block rebuild. You need to know what diameter valves are you using and knowing the port's demention (ex. from inside the cyclinder to where the port ends and beginning to connect to the header), after all these calculation, then you start looking for the header that meets your needs (most likely a custom make).

There are too much to say about this rebuilding project, you should do alot more research and ask all the questions you need to know from the shop before you start doing it.

At last I just want to say, make sure you have the skills to match what you have under your hood.

no 91civicdxdude is right, if you get really big piping, it move the torque curve higher at high rpms, you will lose low end torque, but youll gain high end torque