P1744 Code

Code means that the Torque Converter Clutch system is mechanically stuck in off position.

Is there something else that would cause this to happen? I have about 137k miles on it, had a full trans fluid change and new filter installed about a year ago. My fluid is up and there are no leaks.

Sounds to me like the solenoid has failed. drop pan and check solenoid. As you stated in the post below, a good scan tool will allow you to read the solenoid as you are driving to see if it is functioning properly. Or you can test it with a multimeter.

I don't have a scanner. I had it checked at Auto Zone (they do it for free). I forgot to mention that I do hear a funny noise while driving, kinda like a whizzing noise.

Thanks.

i have a 1998 taurus 24v that had that code about 1 1/2 years ago with about that same mileage.it was rebuild time.

so, what did it end up costing you? I really don't know if I want to soak a couple of grand it the car. I was hoping to trade it in....but now, I can't. dammit.

Sounds to me like the solenoid has failed. drop pan and check solenoid.

What is the procedure for checking the solenoid? Is it possible to do it without a scan tool?

I have a 99 Sable that has been giving me an intermittent P1744 code - the check engine light will come on (mostly during highway driving) but then goes off when I get back to normal daily city driving and the error stops occuring - and I'd like to check it out.

I've looked through the boards and the standard answer seems to be "rebuild time" or "time for a new transmission," but I can't believe that an intermittent error code means a terminal transmission. It just seems to me that it's more likely to be something simple like a loose connection or bad module or something like that. I'd rather exhaust all simple fixes myself before turning myself over to the mercy of a transmission shop so I can finance the guy's new boat.

Has anyone had any experience with this code and found some other fixes besides getting a new transmission? There have to be some because I've seen a lot of posts here where people have gotten the new transmission put in and still have the problem, so obviously the new transmission is not the answer.

I'd be very interested to know what other experiences people have had.

Thanks!
Curt

Sorry I came across this post so late, but I had the P1744 code appear (for the first time) about 400 miles after I completely transfused the tranny fluid in my '97 Taurus GL Wagon (after going 97k on the original fluid ... not a good idea). I heard the same stories about having to rebuild the tranny, and like you I didn't believe any of it. I continued to (gingerly) drive the car for several months, clearing the code and noting the mileage each time. I eventually concluded that the problem was heat-related. Apparently, the cooling system wasn't cooling the tranny fluid sufficiently because once I got around to flushing the gunked up system with the recall chemical (pH Iron Cleaner, 2Qt from Ford), replacing the plastic tank, and refilling with clean, green fluid, the code went away and never returned. The car now has 132k miles on it (35k and 2.5 years since I last saw the code). The tranny is not perfect - if you stomp the pedal from a stop it'll slip and bang, but otherwise it shifts fine. I don't drive that way, so it's not a problem for me. I accelerate gradually from a stop. At some point, however, the car will probably need tranny work if I hold onto it long enough. Nothing lasts forever...

Colt Hero,

Thanks for the reply! I've been driving my normal city/commuter driving (decidely NOT gingerly) for about a month now and haven't seen even a flicker of a code pop up. I know the error code registers if the TC fails to engage after 5 attempts, so maybe the system simply doesn't attempt to engage it more than 5 times in my hour-long commute or maybe the problem has gone away. I don't know, but I agree with you that the problem lies outside the transmission. I like your coolant tip and I'll check out the status of my system.

I'll keep an eye on everything and see how it goes, but at this point I'm not too worried about it anymore. Even if the engine light comes back on, there's no point in worrying about it in a car with 135K on it - it's certainly not worth sinking $1500 into an unneccesary transmission rebuild. At that point it's time to put some electrical tape over the light and forget about it.

But let us know if you experience anything else weird. Thanks for the help!
Curt

I'd definitely service that cooling system if I were you. I'm convinced that a heat buildup in the tranny can cause that code to occur. The funny thing is I'd never seen that code appear until I completely transfused the system with new fluid. You'd think that the old fluid, together with the cruddy (original) antifreeze, would've thrown the code. But maybe new fluid holds or transfers heat better than burned out tranny fluid? I dunno. Like I said, after clearing and recording the code for several months, it was only after I completely cleaned out the cooling system and put in fresh antifreeze that the code went away and never returned.

Had to be more than a coincidence...

Good Luck - and don't make any rash decisions with that car. I think the problems with these Tauruses (while very real) are mostly trumped up or exaggerated by the service industry. The problems are basically with some of the sensors (VSS, CMP), and the gunked up cooling systems. The trannys may not actually be as bad as advertised. Maybe in a lot of cases it's the cooling systems making the trannys look bad!

Lastly, regarding the cooling system, another reason to flush often is to avoid freeze plugs from rusting out. This happened to my Dad's Taurus and it cost him dearly the 2nd time ($700) because the tranny had to be removed to get at the plug! It was definitely incompetance on the part of the "pro" garage. He put his faith in them to maintain his car properly and they failed him miserably - then they charged him all outdoors to correct their incompetance! Don't let this happen to you. I'm about to reflush my system again (~35k miles since the last one) as a matter of fact...

What do you use to flush your cooling system? A couple of posts back you mentioned you use pH Iron Cleaner from Ford - what is that? Is it something you get from a parts store, or online, or through the dealer?

Thanks for the help!
Curt

The pH Cleaner comes in a white plastic 2Qt bottle from the dealer. You probably can use Prestone Superflush instead, but people had advised me not to do that, so I went with the Ford-approved stuff. It's $40 - another dealer rip-off, but at least you know you're using the exact stuff Ford itself used to clean these systems out (it was a recall or TSB on certain vehicles - but not mine or my father's even though both systems were severly gunked up).

Your cooling system may be OK. '99 may be outside the window. But check it anyway, and clean and re-fill if necessary as soon as possible...

By the way, I ended up flushing my Chevy using the Prestone SuperFlush and so far no problems. Being the ever-cautious type that I am with my cars, I only used half the bottle on two successive flushes (a diluted mixture), just in case the chemical turned out to be too harsh for the system. And I also filled it up and ran it several times afterwards with clean water to get all the chemical (and old coolant) out.