replacing brake pads/shoes

is there anything i should be aware about when replacing brake pads, like any special preparations i should do? or do i just unscrew, and screw back on? this isnt for a primera but its my bros 200sx, im going to change the rear brake shoes, not pads (which means brake drums). do i have to push the piston back somehow?

Well, there shouldn't be any problems with the fronts. As for the drum brakes, the only advice I can giv you, AND YOU'D BETTER STICK TO IT is remember exactly which part goes where and also doing one side at a time in case you need reference on how to put it all back together. This is experience talking, man :) If the drum is worn you will need to push the shoes together somehow... You should read the FSM to look for the ways to do that. If you don't have an FSM go get it. If you screw something up you can always go for a rear disc brake conversion! :);)

I would recommend that you have your discs turned when you change your pads. Not only does this deglaze the discs but it keeps everything straight and true. It's especially important to do this if your pedal/car vibrates or surges when you stop. This is not something you HAVE to do, but it's worth it. I'll be getting my brakes done this weekend (hopefully) and will have all four of my rotors turned while the pads are being done.

I only do one drum brake at a time so I can reference where all the parts go on the other. This method takes more time, but is well worth it not to fuck up your brakes.

i figured that, but is there any way i should prep the brake shoe? or should i just install them and break them in on the road?

One thing you will need for the front pads is a little tool, I dont know what it is called. But essentially its a plate with a threaded rod that goes thru it. You will need this to push the piston all the way back in order for you to get the new pads in.

Like Cue-Ball said, if there is any vibration with normal braking, not ABS activated braking. You will need to get the rotors turned. If not, definatley get them deglazed, the poor mans method is sand paper rubbed in circular motion on both sides of the rotor, if not your new pads will squeel like a stuck pig.

Another handy tip is to grab a metal coat hanger and use it to suspend the caliper assembly from the spring so you dont stress the brake line, when you have it off the car.

You shouldnt need to break in the shoes in any special way. Just make sure to pump the break pedal to seat the piston that you pushed back before you drive or youll be in for a sweet suprise. All in all you should be able to do the front pads in under an hour.

Originally posted by Yahnozha
One thing you will need for the front pads is a little tool, I dont know what it is called. But essentially its a plate with a threaded rod that goes thru it. You will need this to push the piston all the way back in order for you to get the new pads in.

Like Cue-Ball said, if there is any vibration with normal braking, not ABS activated braking. You will need to get the rotors turned. If not, definatley get them deglazed, the poor mans method is sand paper rubbed in circular motion on both sides of the rotor, if not your new pads will squeel like a stuck pig.

Another handy tip is to grab a metal coat hanger and use it to suspend the caliper assembly from the spring so you dont stress the brake line, when you have it off the car.

You shouldnt need to break in the shoes in any special way. Just make sure to pump the break pedal to seat the piston that you pushed back before you drive or youll be in for a sweet suprise. All in all you should be able to do the front pads in under an hour.

thanks for the great explanation :D, but this is for my brothers 200SX *REAR* brake DRUMS. ive done disc brakes before, no problem. im wondering if you have to prep brake shoes.

Just one thing............ well maybe two:D

support the front road wheels with blocks of some sort, then release the hand brake!!!!! all this before you jack up the rear. Then remove rear road wheels, and youll find a grub screw securing the drum on, it'll be betwwen two of the studs/holes. Unscrew, and also remove the pin found in most drum assembly, its in the centre shaft, then remove the big nut that the pin hold in place. Pads will be spring loaded, release spring, remove pad, and reverse process for fitting.

this is a rough guide, as most drums are assembled this way.

Okay, i didn't read closely enough. As long as you didn't buy cheap-ass drums, they should be true and shouldn't require any surfacing before installation. When you install the new pads and drums you'll find that the drum won't want to go back over the brake pads. I'm not sure if this is true for the 200SX but most drum brake equipped cars have a little "spur" between the brake shoes. That spur is what makes the pads get closer to the drum as the pads wear away. When you put the new pads on, you'll have to turn that spur so that the brake pads get closer together, otherwise the drum won't fit back on. Also, while you're in there you should check to make sure that nothing is rusty and that the lube points on the brakes are still lubricated. Just be very careful not to get any lube on the pads or drum as it will cause the brakes to lock up.

Good luck!

Originally posted by Cue-Ball
Okay, i didn't read closely enough. As long as you didn't buy cheap-ass drums, they should be true and shouldn't require any surfacing before installation. When you install the new pads and drums you'll find that the drum won't want to go back over the brake pads. I'm not sure if this is true for the 200SX but most drum brake equipped cars have a little "spur" between the brake shoes. That spur is what makes the pads get closer to the drum as the pads wear away. When you put the new pads on, you'll have to turn that spur so that the brake pads get closer together, otherwise the drum won't fit back on. Also, while you're in there you should check to make sure that nothing is rusty and that the lube points on the brakes are still lubricated. Just be very careful not to get any lube on the pads or drum as it will cause the brakes to lock up.

Good luck!

where would the lube points be on the drum? i also bought a drum brake kit which contains most of the parts inside the drum: springs, retainers, nuts, etc. should i just use the kit and replace everything in the drum? the "spur" is basically the "piston" for the drum brakes, am i correct? well the drums i bought were only $20 USD, kind of cheap in my opinion. how do you surface the drums just in case i need to? thanks.

Originally posted by AznVirus


where would the lube points be on the drum?

The lube points wouldn't be on the drum, but would be on the moving parts inside the brakes. You do NOT want lube or oil of any kind on the drum itself or on the brake pad material. take a look at the following picture.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/undercar/2690t/2690E.gif

You're going to want to lube the self-adjuster where it pivots. You may or may not have to lube a few other small spots in there. Just to reduce the friction so that the self adjuster works properly. You'll probably be able to see where it was lubed from the factory. Just clean all the brake dust crap off the inside of the mechanism and relube those points (a FSM would come in handy right about now, no?). I'd wear a dust mask and use plenty of water when you clean out the brakes. They will not be pretty.


i also bought a drum brake kit which contains most of the parts inside the drum: springs, retainers, nuts, etc. should i just use the kit and replace everything in the drum?
I doubt you really need to replace all of the springs and retainers but as long as you bought them, you might as well use them.

the "spur" is basically the "piston" for the drum brakes, am i correct?
No. The spur i'm talking about is part of the self adjusting mechanism. In the picture i attached, you can see it just below the "self-adjuster". See the little gold thing that looks like a cowboy spur? That's it. The cylinder/piston is at the top of the brake assembly. Here's how it works, as you wear down your pads, the gap between the pad and the drum increases. In order to keep you from having a huge dead-pedal before the brakes engage, the pads have to be moved closer to the drum to fill in that gap. So, every time you move the car in reverse, that little self-adjuster turns the spur. The spur, in turn, moves the pads closer to the drum surface and gets rid of the gap. If there's no gap, the adjuster can't move the spur and the pads stay where they are. So, when you take off the old pads, the self-adjuster has compensated by moving them further outward. If you put new pads on and don't put the self-adjuster back to it's starting point, you won't be able to put the new drums (or the old ones) back on. The pads will stick out too far for the drum to fit. Does that make sense? It's kind of hard to explain using just text.

well the drums i bought were only $20 USD, kind of cheap in my opinion. how do you surface the drums just in case i need to? thanks.

Drums aren't very expensive anymore. I'm sure they'll probably be fine as they are. If you put on the new brakes and then you feel a pulsating pedal (not ABS pulsating, but worn brake pulsating) then you'll have to take them in to get turned. Any brake shop can do this for ~$50 per drum. I highly doubt you'll need to have this done unless the drums are replacements from the salvage yard.

Hope this helps.

thanks for all your input :D i think i need to go out and get the Haynes manual cause i always forget little things. :p what kind of "lube" do i use, any special brands or such?

Anyone know what the deal is on these 'dustless' pads? I think Axxis makes them or something. Are they really dustless like they say? What material are they made out of? Expensive?