Classic SE-R vs. b16 EF coupe

(Don't mind the title, it's wrong, it was a '92-'95 coupe, EG)

Cruising on my way home today, I get stopped at the light behind this Civic coupe that sat there at the red light (he was in front, I was directly behind) being a jackass, revving his motor and doing mini-burnouts. He had a mid-wing on a relatively stock-looking car that had stickers here and there. I knew it was an EX at least, because of the moonroof.

This guy was seriously irritating me. I also knew that as soon as the light turns, he'd take off.

I was right. I figured, "why not?", there was not traffic in front of us for at least a half mile, and we had three lanes for at least that.

So I gunned it after him. As soon as I chased him, and he realized I was, I knew this wasn't just any EX, because reeling him in was taking longer than I normally did with stock-engined Civics with bolt-ons. I passed him pretty hard in third, but I think he had slowed down on purpose when he saw that he was actually being reeled in. True to ricer form, he stepped on it again AFTER I slowed down, right as he gets next to me, I kick it down to second (at 50MPH) and immediately stick to his back bumper.

At this point, I notice that there was construction coming up about an eight of mile ahead, and that cars were bunched up behind the construction zone. I let-off, and the Civic cuts in front of my car, probably claiming a win.

So, I made a right at a side-street to avoid the construction. I cut through a neighborhood and was about to make a right back onto a major road, when I noticed that Civic boy had decided to follow and was right behind me.

As I make a right, I held steady at about 35mph in 1st gear, fully expecting the Civic to gun it. Sure enough, I see his front-end lift so I stomped on it too. We started out this time with me about a car ahead, with that lead stretching to about three cars by the time I had to slow down for an upcoming light.

At the light, I rolled my window down as I see the driver and the passenger talking to me. First thing I did when I rolled my window was ask "is that a b16 in there?" He goes "yeah!", "what you got in there?" I said "stock!"

At this point the passenger signalled that we all go from a stop. Seeing that there was no traffic behind us, we held back at the green, letting the couple of cars ahead of us at the light get ahead for a bit.

We both punch it at the same time, with me jumping ahead by about a car and a half (LSD with a 132ft-lbs of torque in a 2300lb car, and a substantial front-weight bias will do that).

I pulled up to about three cars ahead, and tapped my brakes, to signal a win. To his credit, he didn't pull a fly-by, but cruised alongside until we got to the next light.

At this light, they signalled that they wanted to do the same thing (let traffic get ahead and punch it). I looked at the rear-view mirror and saw traffic behind us and I told them no.

I guess they were trying to figure out how this old-ass, stock Sentra beat them, and they tried to get me to follow them somewhere else, for another race, I'm assuming.

At this point, I figured I had proven myself enough as it stood, and had no desire to go anymore. So I just shook my head and waved and moved on.

For those that will be doubting this, my car is the lightest version 1992 Sentra SE-R that deletes the moonroof and most of the power options to reduce a 2400lb car to about 2350lbs or less. The car comes with an SR20DE with a 7500rpm rev-limit with about 140hp stock, and about 132ft-lbs of torque. It also comes with a viscous LSD, and very aggressive gearing. It also has a front-weight bias of 62/38, which means that most of the car's weight is over the drive wheels, allowing for some awesome launches, especially for a FWD.

I also used to be a proud owner of a modified b16 inside a 1990 Integra GS, and am fully aware of what these motors are capable of.

nice sounded like fun :bigthumb:

well atleast hes a good sport. i love the old SE-R's. after you got them, i started liking them more and more. now i drool over them whenever i see one at the shop. nice kill carnutt

good kill! :-D gotta love when the people who toss thousands of extra $ into their cars get stomped by stock.

I didn't think the SE-R/NX2000 was still so much of a sleeper. Kind of funny that there are still people who don't realize they're quick cars :D

Originally posted by spnx
I didn't think the SE-R/NX2000 was still so much of a sleeper. Kind of funny that there are still people who don't realize they're quick cars :D

I don't think they're sleepers anymore at least in California. They're recognized there. Dunno about your Canada, though.

But here in Arizona...I had to explain to one guy why my car was faster than his girlfriend's stock Civic DX:rolleyes:.

Originally posted by carrrnuttt


I don't think they're sleepers anymore at least in California. They're recognized there. Dunno about your Canada, though.

But here in Arizona...I had to explain to one guy why my car was faster than his girlfriend's stock Civic DX:rolleyes:.


poor arcie, i still think my truck could take you!!

yea right my friends zc 4 door 89 civic kills me, but i can keep up with him on the freeway until i hit my govenor
fuckin govenor

sr20de is one of the best four cylinders ever made, not to mention you can boost up to 20psi without major work

Originally posted by Creagach
sr20de is one of the best four cylinders ever made, not to mention you can boost up to 20psi without major work


up to 20 psi on a stock bottom end.....sure......i think you are confusing it with the turbo version

Originally posted by Neutrino



up to 20 psi on a stock bottom end.....sure......i think you are confusing it with the turbo version

Don't know at how many PSIs, but the SR20DE (no T) has been known to hold as much as 400HP on stock internals at about one-hundred thousand miles. The one's with a "T" at the end are known to hold up to 500HP.

actually with race gas and a good intercooler you can run 20 psi on a stock sr20 de, now with a sr20det you can run up to 25psi, on alcohol fuel there is a nx2000 with a gtir bbdet engine that has a speck over 600 hp and runs a 10.50 1/4 @144.2 mph, the compression on a stock de is 9.5.1 and the bbdet is 8.5.1 and the gtir is 8.3.1, mostly speaking 7psi to 14psi is average for a daily driver, and believe me that is a lot for a front wheel drive car---205-300hp depending on boost and fuel management= new tires every month

my advice to neutrino would be to research before you post--:smile: i guess thats what i get for being in the honda area.

my advice to neutrino would be to research before you post-- i guess thats what i get for being in the honda area



hehehe :owned:
Yea, but Neutrinos badass! Plus he's got a sexy lookin car


naw just playin' (bout the ownd).




I think I can see where this is goin...

i meant no disrespect towards neutrino, just can't underestimate the mighty sr20de:biggrin:

Originally posted by Creagach
i meant no disrespect towards neutrino, just can't underestimate the mighty sr20de:biggrin:

AMEN!

Anyhow, welcome to AF.

Have you ever run your NX? Mods?

After graduation ('04), I plan to rip out the SR20DE for a GTiR DET, which my friend's shop has in stock (even if he doesn't, he can get me one). I am then going to build the DE. My goal is at least a streetable 450-500fwhp...at first:icesangel.

Edit: Ooops. Just saw the "sr20det" right after where it says "nx2000" under your avatar. How fast does she run?

I am sure you have some good stories with that thing.

Originally posted by Creagach
my advice to neutrino would be to research before you post--:smile: i guess thats what i get for being in the honda area.

yes you can run on race gas, or for short periods of time.....but you try and run 20 psi on a former na sr20 as a daily driver.....

so before you tell me to do reaserch show me the stock botom end sr20 (not the turbo version) that runs on 20 psi everyday....

the only na engine that might take constant 20 psi reliable without bottom end work is the 426 hemi(strongest bottom end engine)


and what does this mean?" i guess thats what i get for being in the honda area. " you did not even insult me since i never owned a honda but you did insult the other honda owners here.....and that includes hybridsol and he invented turbos:wink:

first off as i stated earlier i meant no disrespect, second i don't know of ANY daily driver that would want to run 20 psi, third the honda statement meant that most honda owners don't know much about nissans, as i don't claim to know about hondas... by the way ANY sr20de lower-end can withstand 20 psi. argue if you like and then look it up, i never said that a 20psi boosted sr20de was meant for a daily driver, i said it could handle it without major work ( new pistons,rods,rings etc.)
and once again since i'm a diplomat i'll apologize if you took offence to my earlier post. adios

by the way the only times i got are
2.099 60' and [email protected]
jwt ecu
centerforce clutch (which i don't like)
redtop bbdet j-spec
front mount intercooler
3" exhaust
kybs in front
coilovers (which hurt ALL the time)
if i could give you some advice i'd say go with an avenir sr20det engine over the gtir because you can get parts for the avenir det in the us, the gtir is a bitch to find parts for, although the gtir IS a better engine the parts are expensive and mostly you'd have to import. If you got the money and time though, go for it!

Originally posted by Creagach
first off as i stated earlier i meant no disrespect, second i don't know of ANY daily driver that would want to run 20 psi, third the honda statement meant that most honda owners don't know much about nissans, as i don't claim to know about hondas... by the way ANY sr20de lower-end can withstand 20 psi. argue if you like and then look it up, i never said that a 20psi boosted sr20de was meant for a daily driver, i said it could handle it without major work ( new pistons,rods,rings etc.)
and once again since i'm a diplomat i'll apologize if you took offence to my earlier post. adios

i did not really take it ofensivelly...i think it was more of a misunderstanding.....

i understood 20 psi daily.....that would be very hard on a stock bottom end

Originally posted by Creagach
by the way the only times i got are
2.099 60' and [email protected]
jwt ecu
centerforce clutch (which i don't like)
redtop bbdet j-spec
front mount intercooler
3" exhaust
kybs in front
coilovers (which hurt ALL the time)
if i could give you some advice i'd say go with an avenir sr20det engine over the gtir because you can get parts for the avenir det in the us, the gtir is a bitch to find parts for, although the gtir IS a better engine the parts are expensive and mostly you'd have to import. If you got the money and time though, go for it!

Not bad. I take you were running street-tires?

Anyhow, about the SR20DET parts, like I said, my buddy already has the motor in stock, and is selling it to me at cost. As for parts, he can get that for me too, through his connections. The GTiR I'm getting for about $1,400. Now, if I find myself short a few hundred, he can get me BB DET for about 900 dollars. Either way, the DET will be my "meantime" motor while we build my DE to hold 500HP or so. Then, after we switch, the DET that was my "meantime" motor will then be built with aftermarket parts to hold (I hope) about 750HP or so. By then, we'll be getting a cheap Sentra shell that we'll use the motor in for full drag use.

We have the plan of attack planned, just can't start any earlier, since I (believe it or not) bought my car with a warranty that ends May '04, which is right around when I graduate and get my degree. The SR20DET will be my grad present to myself:).

holy crap!! ever thought about selling dets on the side, those are screaming deals, i paid 1500 for mine (redtop)and it had really low miles and it looked great under the valve cover, but 1400 for a gtir is a nissan enthusiasts wet dream, also i hate to say it but 750hp on a sr20de would be the world record so good luck, i hope you have lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$

oh yeah i was on street tires

Originally posted by Creagach
holy crap!! ever thought about selling dets on the side, those are screaming deals, i paid 1500 for mine (redtop)and it had really low miles and it looked great under the valve cover, but 1400 for a gtir is a nissan enthusiasts wet dream, also i hate to say it but 750hp on a sr20de would be the world record so good luck, i hope you have lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$

Yeah, it's a dream project. Even though it will be my motor, it will be sponsored by his shop and will be running under its name. That's all I can say for now...don't wanna get into the "counting the chicks before they hatch" area. This is just the plan for now. Hell, we even thought about taking a whole GTiR AWD drivetrain and seeing if we can get that to work in a U.S. Sentra body...but that's for a later discussion;).

BTW, the 750HP goal is for the SR20DET. The built DE with (hopefully) 450-500 streetable HP will go back into my car, which will be a street-car, and the DET will then be built to go into a drag-only car. While the DE is being built, the mostly stock DET will reside under my hood. I know the Silvia DET has been built to pass 800HP in Japan, so I would think our goal is not too far-fetched.

Originally posted by Creagach
actually with race gas and a good intercooler you can run 20 psi on a stock sr20 de, now with a sr20det you can run up to 25psi, on alcohol fuel there is a nx2000 with a gtir bbdet engine that has a speck over 600 hp and runs a 10.50 1/4 @144.2 mph, the compression on a stock de is 9.5.1 and the bbdet is 8.5.1 and the gtir is 8.3.1, mostly speaking 7psi to 14psi is average for a daily driver, and believe me that is a lot for a front wheel drive car---205-300hp depending on boost and fuel management= new tires every month
Yes the sr20det has internals built to run with a turbo, b/c it has one......

20 psi my ass, show me the car...... I believe 14, but I know for a fact the b16a internals are stronger stock than sr20de. b16a has higher CR, and has to withstand it day in and day out. Honda reinforces there cylinder walls stock, and I would never put 20 psi to a b16a stock. Now the SR20DET is a different story. I'm with Neutrino, and I'm shure the turbo GOD would agree with us. :biggrin:

on another note the sr20de does have advantages over the b16, but withstanding boost stock is not one of them.

OBVIOUSLY you don't know about the sr20de....read my earlier posts and then go to www.sr20deforum.com. and then say you're sorry

oh and by the way the lower internals of a sr20de are the same as the det. perhaps i need to go BACK to the nissan forums and stick with my own kind.

Originally posted by Creagach
OBVIOUSLY you don't know about the sr20de....read my earlier posts and then go to www.sr20deforum.com. and then say you're sorry
why the hell did you post a link to some sr20 forum? I apolagize to no one. :biggrin2:

Originally posted by Creagach
oh and by the way the lower internals of a sr20de are the same as the det. perhaps i need to go BACK to the nissan forums and stick with my own kind.
I find it hard to believe that they would use the same internals on both motor's, but if that is true 20 to 25 psi is still way to fucking high. *on a stock 4 cylinder motor* You can pout all you want man, ppl are going to disagree with you. Your trying to tell me you can run 20-25 psi on a stock 4 cylinder motor.....right.......

Originally posted by DblOvrhedCamron

I'm with Neutrino, and I'm shure the turbo GOD would agree with us. :biggrin:



as we are speaking i am performing sacrifices to the turbo oracle and waiting for an answer:worshippy


but to the point....i belive many people do not realise how much stress will be experienced by an egine under 20 psi.....true i'm not by any means a sr20 expert but from my experience na engines are not build to whistand that kind of boost......and it would seem odd for nissan to waste the money in putting the same internals in sr20 nonturbo as in the sr20 turbo

I think somebody needs to apologize to Creagach:tongue:!!

Originally posted by DblOvrhedCamron

I find it hard to believe that they would use the same internals on both motor's, but if that is true 20 to 25 psi is still way to fucking high. *on a stock 4 cylinder motor* You can pout all you want man, ppl are going to disagree with you. Your trying to tell me you can run 20-25 psi on a stock 4 cylinder motor.....right.......

This is quoted from Mike Kojima's (SCC magazine contributor) article in the SR20DE.net's FAQ section.

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/engine_performance_tuning.html

"The SR20 is blessed with a near bulletproof bottom end. The crank and rods are forged steel unlike the typical cast iron that most American motors run. The rod bolts are a beefy 9mm. The crank features rolled fillets, an uncommon strengthening operation used usually only for racing or heavy duty parts. The rod bolt registers are spot faced, leaving a generous amount of metal around the bolt holes, a traditional weak area in connecting rods.

Both the crank and rods are subjected to a severe shotpeening from the factory. Shotpeening microforges the surface of the part making it stronger and harder while leaving the interior soft and ductile. This step can improve the fatigue strength of a part by over 100% and is usually reserved for high end racing parts. The main caps are tied together with a stiff aluminum girdle which improves bottom end rigidity significantly. This feature is usually found in all out race motors. These design elements produce an engine that is nearly bulletproof. I have seen motors with over 100,000 miles on them with the factory honing marks still visible in the cylinder bores! The number of list members in the 100,000 Mile Club is a testament to the durability of the SR20.

The only catastrophic engine failures that I know of (Tom Paule and Zak Nilsson) were the result of low oil levels with spun bearings. Chuck Nibbana’s super trick engine also mysteriously disassembled itself but that might have been because of improper clearancing. I have screwed up 3 SR20’s myself but that was the result of not watching the temperature gauge while racing IMSA and SCCA. Gross overheating was an understatement. Clark Steppler of JWT has never seen a catastrophic failure that could be traced to the engines fault, either.

The same bottom end of our US model SR20DE also is used for the turbo SR20DET so we have a lot of headspace before we start to challenge the strength of the bottom end. The stock parts can be used until the hp climbs well into the 200’s. So bring on the NOS, turbo boost and compression! We have run Ryan Besterwich's turbo car (formerly Searl's) as high as 20 psi of boost which pushed the car into the low 12's with a completely stock bottom end with no harm. His car has over 80k miles on it and is still going strong. I estimate that his car is putting out over 400 hp with the stock bottom end! If detonation can be controlled the stock bottom end is pretty strong!

If you are building a hot street SR20, I recommend leaving the rods alone. By doing the traditional beam polishing you will be removing the factory tough shotpeened surface. If you reshotpeen the rods after polishing they will have to be resized and straitened as proper shotpeening distorts the parts. It is not likely that a local shotpeener can do as good of a job as the factory either. The same goes for the crank. It won’t hurt to do these traditional race prep steps but it is probably not worth the effort on the SR20."

wow i'm very surprised to see the same bottom end in both a NA and turbo version of th engine.....guess now we know why nissan was in financial problems:wink:


but they still say "The stock parts can be used until the hp climbs well into the 200’s" that will be way less than 20 psi.....their statements were a bit contradictory there....

Originally posted by Neutrino

but they still say "The stock parts can be used until the hp climbs well into the 200’s" that will be way less than 20 psi.....their statements were a bit contradictory there....

That's his statement for the guys who want to build their cars. It's precautionary. It is from a FAQ page, you know;).

But, to show how far the motor can go, he quoted his own experience with it, which has a stock, 20PSI SR20DE in it. At the bottom of my quote, he says:

"If you are building a hot street SR20, I recommend leaving the rods alone."

Have you ever heard anyone recommend that for a B16?:thefinger

Originally posted by carrrnuttt


That's his statement for the guys who want to build their cars. It's precautionary. It is from a FAQ page, you know;).



ok now i get it.....


but still it will be no match for my 2jz engine with overnighter parts from ohio and 5000hp shot of naaawwwwwssss and my awesome double clutching....so take that:biggrin2:




:biggrin:

Originally posted by Neutrino


ok now i get it.....


but still it will be no match for my 2jz engine with overnighter parts from ohio and 5000hp shot of naaawwwwwssss and my awesome double clutching....so take that:biggrin2:




:biggrin:

Foo!!! You can't beat me! I made sure my Naaaws doesn't blow my manifold so I'm not running one! My intake blows directly into my motor! I also welded my car's floorboards so you can't get me there.

Lastly, I'll be triple-clutchin' yo! Can't beat that!:thefinger

Originally posted by carrrnuttt


Foo!!! You can't beat me! I made sure my Naaaws doesn't blow my manifold so I'm not running one! My intake blows directly into my motor! I also welded my car's floorboards so you can't get me there.

Lastly, I'll be triple-clutchin' yo! Can't beat that!:thefinger


yeah but what about those piston rings you'll fry.....muhaha....forgot abot those have we:lol:

Originally posted by carrrnuttt
I think somebody needs to apologize to Creagach:tongue:!!



This is quoted from Mike Kojima's (SCC magazine contributor) article in the SR20DE.net's FAQ section.

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/engine_performance_tuning.html

"The SR20 is blessed with a near bulletproof bottom end. The crank and rods are forged steel unlike the typical cast iron that most American motors run. The rod bolts are a beefy 9mm. The crank features rolled fillets, an uncommon strengthening operation used usually only for racing or heavy duty parts. The rod bolt registers are spot faced, leaving a generous amount of metal around the bolt holes, a traditional weak area in connecting rods.

Both the crank and rods are subjected to a severe shotpeening from the factory. Shotpeening microforges the surface of the part making it stronger and harder while leaving the interior soft and ductile. This step can improve the fatigue strength of a part by over 100% and is usually reserved for high end racing parts. The main caps are tied together with a stiff aluminum girdle which improves bottom end rigidity significantly. This feature is usually found in all out race motors. These design elements produce an engine that is nearly bulletproof. I have seen motors with over 100,000 miles on them with the factory honing marks still visible in the cylinder bores! The number of list members in the 100,000 Mile Club is a testament to the durability of the SR20.

The only catastrophic engine failures that I know of (Tom Paule and Zak Nilsson) were the result of low oil levels with spun bearings. Chuck Nibbana’s super trick engine also mysteriously disassembled itself but that might have been because of improper clearancing. I have screwed up 3 SR20’s myself but that was the result of not watching the temperature gauge while racing IMSA and SCCA. Gross overheating was an understatement. Clark Steppler of JWT has never seen a catastrophic failure that could be traced to the engines fault, either.

The same bottom end of our US model SR20DE also is used for the turbo SR20DET so we have a lot of headspace before we start to challenge the strength of the bottom end. The stock parts can be used until the hp climbs well into the 200’s. So bring on the NOS, turbo boost and compression! We have run Ryan Besterwich's turbo car (formerly Searl's) as high as 20 psi of boost which pushed the car into the low 12's with a completely stock bottom end with no harm. His car has over 80k miles on it and is still going strong. I estimate that his car is putting out over 400 hp with the stock bottom end! If detonation can be controlled the stock bottom end is pretty strong!

where can I email Ryan, so I can ask him when he blew his motor? *Last updated: 09/21/99*
Cmon now 20 psi is flirting with disaster on stock internals, I know the rods are strong as shit, and it is an amazing motor. But lets be realistic for a moment........Would you run stock internals and boost your motor past 15-16 psi? I woulden't, no motor is unbreakable. *well into 200's* *low 12's* this article is fishy, boosting 20 psi I estimate him well into the 11's, although it does say 400 hp and that sounds about right. But the weight to hp ratio, those things are light as hell. Just an observation, It just sounds a little questionable.

Originally posted by DblOvrhedCamron

where can I email Ryan, so I can ask him when he blew his motor? *Last updated: 09/21/99*
Cmon now 20 psi is flirting with disaster on stock internals, I know the rods are strong as shit, and it is an amazing motor. But lets be realistic for a moment........Would you run stock internals and boost your motor past 15-16 psi? I woulden't, no motor is unbreakable. *well into 200's* *low 12's* this article is fishy, boosting 20 psi I estimate him well into the 11's, although it does say 400 hp and that sounds about right. But the weight to hp ratio, those things are light as hell. Just an observation, It just sounds a little questionable.

Like I said on AIM, and posting on here for everyone else's benefit, there's a difference between "recommended" and "possible".;)

this goes to carnutt, u said u had a 92 integra gs with a b16. my question is why? u wasted 2 or 3 grand for twenty more horses? this guy try to get me to do the same thing, i really the don't see the point the b18 that comes stock in ur car is perfect for forced induction and around the same price for the b16 and istallation u could have gain an extra 100+ horses from a turbo.also u chose a smaller motor?u know the saying, there no replacement for displacement. i just don't understand why u would do such a thing.:confused:

Originally posted by tran_nsx
this goes to carnutt, u said u had a 92 integra gs with a b16. my question is why? u wasted 2 or 3 grand for twenty more horses? this guy try to get me to do the same thing, i really the don't see the point the b18 that comes stock in ur car is perfect for forced induction and around the same price for the b16 and istallation u could have gain an extra 100+ horses from a turbo.also u chose a smaller motor?u know the saying, there no replacement for displacement. i just don't understand why u would do such a thing.:confused:

FYI: The stock motor blew, and believe it or not, the b16 that replaced it was cheaper than a replacement motor. The JDM b16 that I purchased had 170hp, just like any other SiRII b16. The motor cost me 600 U.S. dollars, and the LSD tranny cost me $350. Also, the 1990 Integra's b18a had 130hp...so that's a jump of 40hp. I'm not sure how you can get that kind of a jump of power for $950 with a 130hp b18a as reliably. Naaawwwsss maybe, but not reliable, and temporary.

Also, no matter how you put it, the VTEC motors' price-to-mod-to-power ratio was unbeatable...even by a brother B-series motor.

FYI: The stock motor blew, and believe it or not, the b16 that replaced it was cheaper than a replacement motor. The JDM b16 that I purchased had 170hp, just like any other SiRII b16. The motor cost me 600 U.S. dollars, and the LSD tranny cost me $350. Also, the 1990 Integra's b18a had 130hp...so that's a jump of 40hp. I'm not sure how you can get that kind of a jump of power for $950 with a 130hp b18a as reliably. Naaawwwsss maybe, but not reliable, and temporary.

Also, no matter how you put it, the VTEC motors' price-to-mod-to-power ratio was unbeatable...even by a brother B-series motor.

ok if the motor blew and u can fine it cheaper then what the heck, why not.my assumption was that u rip out the b18 for the b16 just cuz u want the extra horses. i know the sirII has 170 hp but what is the torque on that thing, that is a good motor don't get me wrong but i know the regular b16 a1/a2/a3 has 160 hp, 20 more then the b18 but it lacks lacks torque which people seem to forget about.oh and no the b18 doesn't make 130hp, its 140hp, all the integra from 90-93 non vtec make 140, unless u have some wierd hybrid. i should know since my integra is a 92 ls and have plans for force induction. still i believe that moto, there's no replacement for displacement, a 1.8 is always gonna be bigger that a 1.6 therefore more room for power.

oh i just found the torque spec for the sirII its 115. that still less then the b18, which is 127, but heck u got it cheaper though thats where it counts

THANK YOU. carrnutt, at least someone can do a little research around here, and i'm still waiting for my apology, please make it a habit to not argue with someone unless you know what your talking about. This is my last post on this subject, as mike kojima settled the argument quite nicely.

Originally posted by tran_nsx

ok if the motor blew and u can fine it cheaper then what the heck, why not.my assumption was that u rip out the b18 for the b16 just cuz u want the extra horses. i know the sirII has 170 hp but what is the torque on that thing, that is a good motor don't get me wrong but i know the regular b16 a1/a2/a3 has 160 hp, 20 more then the b18 but it lacks lacks torque which people seem to forget about.oh and no the b18 doesn't make 130hp, its 140hp, all the integra from 90-93 non vtec make 140, unless u have some wierd hybrid. i should know since my integra is a 92 ls and have plans for force induction. still i believe that moto, there's no replacement for displacement, a 1.8 is always gonna be bigger that a 1.6 therefore more room for power.

Son, a few things you need to keep in mind if you will be hanging out here in my forums:

1) PLEASE don't act like you know what you're talking about, especially about Hondas, when you don't.

1990-1991 Integra's b18a's come with 130HP stock.

Read this:
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1990/acura/integra/18139/specs.html?tid=edmunds.u.prices.leftsidenav..6.Acu ra*

Then this:
http://www.musclecarclub.com/other-cars/imports/acura-integra/acura-integra.shtml

1992 and up is where they changed the b18a's stock output to 140. That is also the year they came out with the GS-R and VTEC in a car other than the NSX. The 2G GS-R was direct competition for the car I drive now, the SE-R. 1992 was also the year I first got into Hondas, when my best friend bought a 1992 GS-R fresh off the lot (read: I've been doing this for a long time).

You will notice, the 2G GS-R, with 1.7liters in its b17a, ALSO has a smaller displacement than the b18a, with LESS output than the b16 I had.

All I basically did was re-create my best-friend's old GS-R with even better specs and traction, due to an LSD. The LSD alone, if bought aftermarket would've cost me 600 dollars or so.

2) If you're so worried about displacement, what are you doing driving a Honda/Acura in the first place?

3) Don't take any of the above as an instigation to anything, or that I don't want you around, but next time you want to question somebody, please do some research into actual facts, and don't just assume. Some of us here have been doing this a long time, and have generated our own similar questions and answered them a LONG time ago.

4) Welcome to AF.

Originally posted by carrrnuttt




2) If you're so worried about displacement, what are you doing driving a Honda/Acura in the first place?




:spit: :lol:

Originally posted by Creagach
THANK YOU. carrnutt, at least someone can do a little research around here, and i'm still waiting for my apology, please make it a habit to not argue with someone unless you know what your talking about. This is my last post on this subject, as mike kojima settled the argument quite nicely.
Jump off your high horse mo'fo' we came to a mutual agreement, I apologize to know one. This is possible hp no one runs 20psi on a motor that handle's 7psi stock so I read, *carrrnuttt says its a little higher on different models*. After browsing numerous sr20 forums they say safe boost on stock internals *recommended* ranges from around 10-15 psi. 20 psi is possible, I could tell someone with a b20b to boost to a simular psi on stock internals, but I'd be giving them possible psi not recommended. I'd also be giving them a motor life of about 2 years max. :biggrin2:

Originally posted by DblOvrhedCamron

Jump off your high horse mo'fo' we came to a mutual agreement, I apologize to know one. This is possible hp no one runs 20psi on a motor that handle's 7psi stock so I read, *carrrnuttt says its a little higher on different models*. After browsing numerous sr20 forums they say safe boost on stock internals *recommended* ranges from around 10-15 psi. 20 psi is possible, I could tell someone with a b20b to boost to a simular psi on stock internals, but I'd be giving them possible psi not recommended. I'd also be giving them a motor life of about 2 years max. :biggrin2:

Post edited for content

I'm not in the habit of editing other people's posts, but please refrain from using the words I edited directly towards another person. I know words themselves are not censored, but just watch the context you use it in.

Originally posted by carrrnuttt


Son, a few things you need to keep in mind if you will be hanging out here in my forums:

1) PLEASE don't act like you know what you're talking about, especially about Hondas, when you don't.

1990-1991 Integra's b18a's come with 130HP stock.

Read this:
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1990/acura/integra/18139/specs.html?tid=edmunds.u.prices.leftsidenav..6.Acu ra*

Then this:
http://www.musclecarclub.com/other-cars/imports/acura-integra/acura-integra.shtml

1992 and up is where they changed the b18a's stock output to 140. That is also the year they came out with the GS-R and VTEC in a car other than the NSX. The 2G GS-R was direct competition for the car I drive now, the SE-R. 1992 was also the year I first got into Hondas, when my best friend bought a 1992 GS-R fresh off the lot (read: I've been doing this for a long time).

You will notice, the 2G GS-R, with 1.7liters in its b17a, ALSO has a smaller displacement than the b18a, with LESS output than the b16 I had.

All I basically did was re-create my best-friend's old GS-R with even better specs and traction, due to an LSD. The LSD alone, if bought aftermarket would've cost me 600 dollars or so.

2) If you're so worried about displacement, what are you doing driving a Honda/Acura in the first place?

3) Don't take any of the above as an instigation to anything, or that I don't want you around, but next time you want to question somebody, please do some research into actual facts, and don't just assume. Some of us here have been doing this a long time, and have generated our own similar questions and answered them a LONG time ago.

4) Welcome to AF.



first off carrrnuttt i not here to start any arguement, but please don't call me son that is plain rude, degrading, and offensive, unless of course ur a father figure to me which of course ur not no offense. and no its not because i don't like u, its the plain and simple fact that i don't know u, wouldn't u agree? now im going to explain the 4 topics u laid out for me on ur above quote, and i don't mean any of it the wrong way cuz let me repeat, i mean no offense. im here to get some advice, give some advice if people want it, and to find a place where i can meet people with the same interest.

1. the facts i bring up isn't just me talking out my ass, i either get it through experience, research,and/or reading.which brings me to the horsepower topic we discuss. i got that fact which is the 90-93 integra with the horse power of 140 (142 to be exact) from a book called "sport compact car performance series vol.1 - honda/acura performance"- high performance street and racing modifications for honda civic/accord and acura integra models from the editors of sport compact car magazine. on page 120 in the engine tuning guide, it states 90-93(year), integra ls/gs/multi-port fi(model), b18a1, 1.8 dohc(engine). and a couple pages b4 that on page 115 under "civic engine swaps: what fits" it says that the b18a/b has 142hp at 6300rpm. so as u can see i got it from a very knowledgable source.but after checking the two sites u offered and triple checking in my chilton, i come to the conclusion u are correct on the matter and i apologize.but again though this could happen to any one of us where information is wrong especially from a very reliable source where it mislead the readers.even though the book is great reading and is an invaluable resource to help increase horsepower, im now kinda disoppointed with scc.

2. to answer ur question on that topic its very simple im surprise ur even asking me that. honda's and acura's of course has small motors, they are good with gas, affordable, and are very reliable which is great for daily driving and transportation . these are some of the reasons why i bought it, the others was bcuz its look appealing, easily modifiable, and my main reason is that i just needed a good car now. but if ur looking to race or increase the hp, then of course ur gonna be worried about displacement weather its a small little 4 cylinder honda or a huge v8 ford no ifs, ands, or buts. i know im not the only acura driver worrying about displacement come on now.if want a faster car ur going to need abigger engine. why do u think people swap out thier puny d15's/16's,and even thier b16's for its bigger brothers? bigger motor= bigger power.simple math if u ask me.

3.on this matter above, no i don't take it as an instigation although i am offended on how u call me son, but besides that i don't take any of it to heart. the reason why i ask u or any one for that matter questions isn't to question ur knowledge and make u feel ignorant, its to understand ur logic and reasoning, and why u chose those options.again i was wrong on the hp topic,i apologize, but i think the main blame goes to scc for thier misleading info, it could happen to anyone of us.also a note u should clarify the kind of engine u had and its hp output in the future so this kind of questions won't come up again especially when its from a jdm market, cuz if u don't the same questions gonna resurface.my question at the time when i saw ur post was why did he swapped a b18 with a b16? bigger to smaller? assumptions is automatically gonna arise, no choice about it. as u can see it didn't make sense until u clarify what happen and the exact b16 engine.

4.thank u, im glad to be here at af, to get off on the right foot i just wanna say hey my name is tran_nsx, well my screen name that is.:bigthumb:

tran_nsx:

1) I called you "son" to hammer home the idea that you are not "talking" to a newbie with questionable ideas here, and to throw back at you the tone I felt from your posts, which definitely had a condescending air with it.

2) No prob on the specs argument. I used to think that my stock motor had 140HP too, until it was time to replace it, and I researched the different Honda motors that I might be able to get for replacement. If I had the money to do it, I would've went b18c myself.

3) Again, no offense intended. You certainly got how offended I felt at your tone, though.

4) Again, welcome. If you stick around long enough, I guarantee you'll find some very knowledgeable people in here when it comes to cars of all kinds. Just please refrain from flaming other makes/models...we're all enthusiasts here...or at least we strive for that goal.

Originally posted by carrrnuttt


Post edited for content

I'm not in the habit of editing other people's posts, but please refrain from using the words I edited directly towards another person. I know words themselves are not censored, but just watch the context you use it in.
sorry man, I coulden't think of another word to say and mo fo just dosen't sound like me, next time I'll use *'s. :biggrin: