MSD Ignition installed (Pics)
ci5ic
07-22-2003, 07:59 PM
Well, finally got it installed. Bought it from Eric (CWBETB) almost a year ago, and finally got around to wiring it up today... Wasn't too difficult, but wiring it up to the dizzy was a bit of a challenge.
Anyways, here's the pics:
Ignition control unit:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/988450smIgnition01.jpg
Distributor w/MSD modified cap. You can see where I drilled through the cap seal to run one of the wires through (yellow wire at the top edge of the dizzy), and also, where I tapped into the other wire on the front of the dizzy:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/511205smDizzy01.jpg
The Blaster II coil, mounted perfectly under the intake. There were 2 perfectly spaced threaded bolt-holes, one of which was from the long-since-removed battery tray, not sure what the other was from, but I didn't have to drill any new holes for the mounting hardware:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/477553smCoil01.jpg
Anyways, took me a while to do, but the car started right up without any problems.
One thing I have noticed though is that there's a loud ticking noise coming from the dizzy/cap when the engine is running (ticking increases/decreases frequency relative to RPM)... Anyone have any ideas what could cause this? I'm pretty sure all the wiring is well away from any of the moving components inside the dizzy...
Anyways, here's the pics:
Ignition control unit:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/988450smIgnition01.jpg
Distributor w/MSD modified cap. You can see where I drilled through the cap seal to run one of the wires through (yellow wire at the top edge of the dizzy), and also, where I tapped into the other wire on the front of the dizzy:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/511205smDizzy01.jpg
The Blaster II coil, mounted perfectly under the intake. There were 2 perfectly spaced threaded bolt-holes, one of which was from the long-since-removed battery tray, not sure what the other was from, but I didn't have to drill any new holes for the mounting hardware:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/477553smCoil01.jpg
Anyways, took me a while to do, but the car started right up without any problems.
One thing I have noticed though is that there's a loud ticking noise coming from the dizzy/cap when the engine is running (ticking increases/decreases frequency relative to RPM)... Anyone have any ideas what could cause this? I'm pretty sure all the wiring is well away from any of the moving components inside the dizzy...
DarkImportGrey
07-22-2003, 08:09 PM
How new are the dizzy cap and rotor? I noticed on 4g4dstore's that it was noisy before we swapped it out, and pretty damn quiet after we put the new one in. How does the MSD help out? Phact and I might be interested in one for the project car, but I just wanna know the benefits. Also, do they sell kits that already include the modified dizzy cap?
EF You
07-22-2003, 08:13 PM
looks good pimp!
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added
ci5ic
07-22-2003, 08:19 PM
Originally posted by incucivic
looks good pimp!
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added
Actually, I didn't change the rotor yet, but I plan to tomorrow, so hopefully that'll take care of the problem. Also, going to get some Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs for it.
As far as benefits, the car starts MUCH easier, and just makes for smoother ignition... No real HP gains or anything...
looks good pimp!
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added
Actually, I didn't change the rotor yet, but I plan to tomorrow, so hopefully that'll take care of the problem. Also, going to get some Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs for it.
As far as benefits, the car starts MUCH easier, and just makes for smoother ignition... No real HP gains or anything...
EF You
07-22-2003, 08:29 PM
dont put bosch in there. go with NGKs, they are what honda puts in every car, even the NSX.
gunnmen01
07-22-2003, 08:33 PM
Damn where you mounted your msd box is where i put my nitrious box... hhmmm now where to put my ignition box.........
gunnmen01
gunnmen01
Melt
07-22-2003, 08:36 PM
what are you playin around with ignitions for ... hurry up and get the sohc vtec in there :bigthumb:
gunnmen01
07-22-2003, 08:42 PM
ive had the z6 in for almost 2 years.... the one i built to go in is done im just waiting for my flywheel which should be here anyday...im doing it all at once....clutch,flywheel,ignition, new motor, limited slip, just finished the new struts, springs, and teggy wheels on saturday....
gunnmen01
gunnmen01
Melt
07-22-2003, 09:06 PM
gunnmen you gotta post some pics ... i cant remember ever seein your ride :bigthumb:
gunnmen01
07-22-2003, 09:39 PM
ill get some new ones takin soon......
gunnmen01
gunnmen01
BullShifter
07-22-2003, 11:16 PM
Originally posted by gunnmen01
Damn where you mounted your msd box is where i put my nitrious box... hhmmm now where to put my ignition box.........
gunnmen01
Remove your glove box & on top of the ducting there is a perfect spot for the MSD box. Its a little bit noisy being inside the car, but oh well. I dont use it as a daily driver, so i really dont care. Now if I had to use the car daily, the noise would drive me crazy.
I got some pics of mine installed, just need to get the 6month old film developed since I aint got no digi camera.
When removing the rotor apply thread lock to the screw or IT WILL FALL OUT and your car will die. Like some one said, the new rotor comes with a new screw with thread lock on it for a reason. Not that it ever happened to me:bloated:
Damn where you mounted your msd box is where i put my nitrious box... hhmmm now where to put my ignition box.........
gunnmen01
Remove your glove box & on top of the ducting there is a perfect spot for the MSD box. Its a little bit noisy being inside the car, but oh well. I dont use it as a daily driver, so i really dont care. Now if I had to use the car daily, the noise would drive me crazy.
I got some pics of mine installed, just need to get the 6month old film developed since I aint got no digi camera.
When removing the rotor apply thread lock to the screw or IT WILL FALL OUT and your car will die. Like some one said, the new rotor comes with a new screw with thread lock on it for a reason. Not that it ever happened to me:bloated:
ci5ic
07-22-2003, 11:41 PM
Originally posted by jackasssi
When removing the rotor apply thread lock to the screw or IT WILL FALL OUT and your car will die. Like some one said, the new rotor comes with a new screw with thread lock on it for a reason. Not that it ever happened to me:bloated:
Yeah, it's happened to me before. I'll never make that mistake again. Just need to go get a new rotor tomorrow.
When removing the rotor apply thread lock to the screw or IT WILL FALL OUT and your car will die. Like some one said, the new rotor comes with a new screw with thread lock on it for a reason. Not that it ever happened to me:bloated:
Yeah, it's happened to me before. I'll never make that mistake again. Just need to go get a new rotor tomorrow.
<[4gen91CvcLX]>
07-22-2003, 11:54 PM
looks good man, do you notice a signifigant difference?
ci5ic
07-22-2003, 11:55 PM
Originally posted by <[4gen91CvcLX]>
looks good man, do you notice a signifigant difference?
Like I said, it starts alot easier, and I think I noticed a slight improvement in throttle response, but I didn't actually drive anywhere, so a little early to tell.
looks good man, do you notice a signifigant difference?
Like I said, it starts alot easier, and I think I noticed a slight improvement in throttle response, but I didn't actually drive anywhere, so a little early to tell.
<[4gen91CvcLX]>
07-23-2003, 12:00 AM
yea, keep us updated :bigthumb:
jeef
07-23-2003, 12:19 AM
nice install, i put my box in the same place... but my coil is over on the drivers side... and mine is all wired up inside the dizzy... it was a snap to install the msd though...
91civicDXdude
07-23-2003, 12:33 AM
just a thought...
honda puts the coil inside the distributor for a reason, adn that is as to not lose any spark... if you must use an external coil, make the coil wire as short as possible. running a 6 foot coil wire to put your coil far away is a bad idea.
honda puts the coil inside the distributor for a reason, adn that is as to not lose any spark... if you must use an external coil, make the coil wire as short as possible. running a 6 foot coil wire to put your coil far away is a bad idea.
spooleffect
07-23-2003, 12:46 AM
Originally posted by ci5ic
One thing I have noticed though is that there's a loud ticking noise coming from the dizzy/cap when the engine is running (ticking increases/decreases frequency relative to RPM)...
Im not sure exactly what it is but I think that some cars that have upgraded ignition systems with a distributor make that noise because it is the sound of the spark jumping from the rotor to the post. It might just be that your cap isnt on tight enough so you are getting a greater gap and are hearing the spark because of the increased gap.
One thing I have noticed though is that there's a loud ticking noise coming from the dizzy/cap when the engine is running (ticking increases/decreases frequency relative to RPM)...
Im not sure exactly what it is but I think that some cars that have upgraded ignition systems with a distributor make that noise because it is the sound of the spark jumping from the rotor to the post. It might just be that your cap isnt on tight enough so you are getting a greater gap and are hearing the spark because of the increased gap.
ci5ic
07-23-2003, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by spooleffect
Im not sure exactly what it is but I think that some cars that have upgraded ignition systems with a distributor make that noise because it is the sound of the spark jumping from the rotor to the post. It might just be that your cap isnt on tight enough so you are getting a greater gap and are hearing the spark because of the increased gap.
Yeah, the idea crossed my mind, but it really sounds more mechanical than electrical... Someone PM'd me that there's a dust-cover somewhere inside the dizzy, I think he said it was over the rotor, and that I should remove it... said that could be causing the clicking... I dunno. I'm going to mess with it a bunch tomorrow, and I'll let everyone know what I find out (if anything).
Im not sure exactly what it is but I think that some cars that have upgraded ignition systems with a distributor make that noise because it is the sound of the spark jumping from the rotor to the post. It might just be that your cap isnt on tight enough so you are getting a greater gap and are hearing the spark because of the increased gap.
Yeah, the idea crossed my mind, but it really sounds more mechanical than electrical... Someone PM'd me that there's a dust-cover somewhere inside the dizzy, I think he said it was over the rotor, and that I should remove it... said that could be causing the clicking... I dunno. I'm going to mess with it a bunch tomorrow, and I'll let everyone know what I find out (if anything).
jeef
07-23-2003, 01:33 AM
Originally posted by 91civicDXdude
just a thought...
honda puts the coil inside the distributor for a reason, adn that is as to not lose any spark... if you must use an external coil, make the coil wire as short as possible. running a 6 foot coil wire to put your coil far away is a bad idea.
just another though honda coils put out no where near the power of the msd setup... its worked fine for me for three years i'm not about to change it...
just a thought...
honda puts the coil inside the distributor for a reason, adn that is as to not lose any spark... if you must use an external coil, make the coil wire as short as possible. running a 6 foot coil wire to put your coil far away is a bad idea.
just another though honda coils put out no where near the power of the msd setup... its worked fine for me for three years i'm not about to change it...
91civicDXdude
07-23-2003, 01:34 AM
my msd cap does the same thing and has done it since it was new.
NJ1989si
07-23-2003, 02:06 AM
Originally posted by gunnmen01
Damn where you mounted your msd box is where i put my nitrious box... hhmmm now where to put my ignition box.........
gunnmen01
my mechanic had to install mine right on top of the ECU under the passengers side carpet, sticks up a little bit but..................
Damn where you mounted your msd box is where i put my nitrious box... hhmmm now where to put my ignition box.........
gunnmen01
my mechanic had to install mine right on top of the ECU under the passengers side carpet, sticks up a little bit but..................
ci5ic
07-23-2003, 06:26 PM
Okay, I replaced the rotor today, and the noise has quieted slightly...
Jackasssi had PM'd me about a dust cover inside there somewhere, but I couldn't see anything of that nature, so I don't know what he was talking about.
I took a look inside the MSD cap to see if there were any areas that looked damaged, and there was a spot on the wall of the cap that looked like the rotor was hitting every time it went around. Also, checked the old rotor, and there appeared to be a tiny bit of plastic melted to the metal conductor, so I think that is what was hitting the cap. Tomorrow, I'm going to use my dremel to remove some of the material in that area of the cap and see if the noise stops alltogether.
One thing that finally made me install the MSD after procrastinating so long was that my Check Engine light kept coming on whenever I drove the car. I would turn the car off, and when I re-started it, the check-engine light would be gone (ECU never threw a code)... On a trip to Seattle, I decided to ignore the light, and my coil had a melt-down... Replaced the coil and made sure it was grounded properly, but the problem persisted. So, I decided to install the MSD finally, hoping that it would take care of the problem, and afterwards, the check engine light came on again this morning, I was fucking pissed. Anyways, I replaced the rotor, and checked the connections to the ignitor, and it hasn't come on since, so I'm really hoping that the problem is fixed.
Jackasssi had PM'd me about a dust cover inside there somewhere, but I couldn't see anything of that nature, so I don't know what he was talking about.
I took a look inside the MSD cap to see if there were any areas that looked damaged, and there was a spot on the wall of the cap that looked like the rotor was hitting every time it went around. Also, checked the old rotor, and there appeared to be a tiny bit of plastic melted to the metal conductor, so I think that is what was hitting the cap. Tomorrow, I'm going to use my dremel to remove some of the material in that area of the cap and see if the noise stops alltogether.
One thing that finally made me install the MSD after procrastinating so long was that my Check Engine light kept coming on whenever I drove the car. I would turn the car off, and when I re-started it, the check-engine light would be gone (ECU never threw a code)... On a trip to Seattle, I decided to ignore the light, and my coil had a melt-down... Replaced the coil and made sure it was grounded properly, but the problem persisted. So, I decided to install the MSD finally, hoping that it would take care of the problem, and afterwards, the check engine light came on again this morning, I was fucking pissed. Anyways, I replaced the rotor, and checked the connections to the ignitor, and it hasn't come on since, so I'm really hoping that the problem is fixed.
EF You
07-23-2003, 07:11 PM
the dust cover is a black plastic piece that goes on before you put the rotor on. it covers all of the sensors that run off the dizzy shaft. its semi-cylindrical, and very obvious looking. if you didnt see it, chances are its already been removed.
you are burning up coils? check and triple check all of your grounds, and also measure the primary voltage. it will be the two wires that you now have going INTO the MSD box, not the two that are connecting the MSD to the coil. because the MSD obviously alters the primary voltage.
you are burning up coils? check and triple check all of your grounds, and also measure the primary voltage. it will be the two wires that you now have going INTO the MSD box, not the two that are connecting the MSD to the coil. because the MSD obviously alters the primary voltage.
wannabe
07-23-2003, 07:40 PM
Originally posted by incucivic
looks good pimp!
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added does that mean you've finished your car:sly:
looks good pimp!
about the ticking sound, check that the rotor screw is TIGHT and that the screw is brand new if you changed the rotor!! i keep having to pull over on the side of the road cause my rotor falls off. they give you a new screw with the rotor for a reason.
unless you didnt change the rotor, which i hope you did considering all the ignition stuff you just added does that mean you've finished your car:sly:
EF You
07-23-2003, 07:47 PM
Originally posted by wannabe
does that mean you've finished your car:sly:
naw man, not even close. i have 2 EF hatches
does that mean you've finished your car:sly:
naw man, not even close. i have 2 EF hatches
wannabe
07-23-2003, 08:07 PM
o
man i was getting all excited
man i was getting all excited
ci5ic
07-23-2003, 08:47 PM
Originally posted by incucivic
the dust cover is a black plastic piece that goes on before you put the rotor on. it covers all of the sensors that run off the dizzy shaft. its semi-cylindrical, and very obvious looking. if you didnt see it, chances are its already been removed.
you are burning up coils? check and triple check all of your grounds, and also measure the primary voltage. it will be the two wires that you now have going INTO the MSD box, not the two that are connecting the MSD to the coil. because the MSD obviously alters the primary voltage.
Yeah, there was nothing that looked like the dust cover, so I'm sure it's already gone.
I fried one coil on the way to seattle, replaced it, and drove back home right away... every 10 miles or so, the check engine light would come on and I'd have to pull over to let it cool down a bit before driving again... I replaced the ground strap that goes from the valve cover bolt to the frame, and also the strap that goes from the valve cover to the valve cover bolt, but the problem persisted... didn't know what other grounds to check...
But, like I said, after replacing the rotor, I did a bunch of driving around, and the check-engine light didn't come on again...
So, what should the primary voltage be going to the MSD? just the standard 14 volts (with the engine running)?
the dust cover is a black plastic piece that goes on before you put the rotor on. it covers all of the sensors that run off the dizzy shaft. its semi-cylindrical, and very obvious looking. if you didnt see it, chances are its already been removed.
you are burning up coils? check and triple check all of your grounds, and also measure the primary voltage. it will be the two wires that you now have going INTO the MSD box, not the two that are connecting the MSD to the coil. because the MSD obviously alters the primary voltage.
Yeah, there was nothing that looked like the dust cover, so I'm sure it's already gone.
I fried one coil on the way to seattle, replaced it, and drove back home right away... every 10 miles or so, the check engine light would come on and I'd have to pull over to let it cool down a bit before driving again... I replaced the ground strap that goes from the valve cover bolt to the frame, and also the strap that goes from the valve cover to the valve cover bolt, but the problem persisted... didn't know what other grounds to check...
But, like I said, after replacing the rotor, I did a bunch of driving around, and the check-engine light didn't come on again...
So, what should the primary voltage be going to the MSD? just the standard 14 volts (with the engine running)?
EF You
07-24-2003, 10:19 AM
Originally posted by ci5ic
So, what should the primary voltage be going to the MSD? just the standard 14 volts (with the engine running)?
you should get the regular 12 volts (give or take a few). secondary (the stuff coming outta the coil) is a helluva lot more.
just a question, did the coil problems happen after you moved the battery to the back?
So, what should the primary voltage be going to the MSD? just the standard 14 volts (with the engine running)?
you should get the regular 12 volts (give or take a few). secondary (the stuff coming outta the coil) is a helluva lot more.
just a question, did the coil problems happen after you moved the battery to the back?
ci5ic
07-24-2003, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by incucivic
you should get the regular 12 volts (give or take a few). secondary (the stuff coming outta the coil) is a helluva lot more.
just a question, did the coil problems happen after you moved the battery to the back?
Long long after I moved the battery...
I hadn't done anything to my car (electrical related) for a while except to install my speakers in the doors, and I really doubt that caused any problems...
Oh, and the check engine light still comes on. :banghead:
you should get the regular 12 volts (give or take a few). secondary (the stuff coming outta the coil) is a helluva lot more.
just a question, did the coil problems happen after you moved the battery to the back?
Long long after I moved the battery...
I hadn't done anything to my car (electrical related) for a while except to install my speakers in the doors, and I really doubt that caused any problems...
Oh, and the check engine light still comes on. :banghead:
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