Street racing with a SBF 377, turbo, and N2O in a GTR

What do boys think about that?

Torque/hp should be about 750-800, total cost about 20k. Its going to take me a while, but its doable.

Turbo or Supercharger, not sure, but I love turbos, is to just easier install a Vortech. We will see.

I paid $1500 for the car:)

Originally posted by SkylineUSA


I paid $1500 for the car:)

I HATE you:thefinger :biggrin2:.

I'll give ya $2,000 for it if ya send it;)...

Anyhow...sounds like a sweet project. I say go for it and keep us posted.

Ya,

I will keep ya posted.



I am from Glandale, Az. Small world:) I miss the heat, and the girls:bigthumb:

Here is the engine bay. The car has a brand new battery:lol:

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
Ya,

I will keep ya posted.



I am from Glandale, Az. Small world:) I miss the heat, and the girls:bigthumb:

:bigthumb:


Anyhow, even without an engine, that is still cheap for that car, based on U.S. prices. A few more thousand for an RB26...

And NO, I don't miss the heat. 113 degrees outside right now.

i hate the heat.. dont like summer.

1,500


DAMMIT! :eek7:

yea pity there isn't an engine


I say a big fat turbo

or get a Nissan V8 from something and supercharge it or twin turbo it
i dunno if it'd fit but it would be cool to see a V8 Skyine

I am putting a V8 in that BADBOY.

American Ford small block, bored and stroked to a 377, with a S trim Superchager, or dual HKS 2540s, and some giggle gas.

The 2540 should rock with the extra displacement. I will be doing some more research before I make my choice.

I might go a little higher comp, and use the 2510s, or the new GT-SS series. Damn the choices:biggrin:

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
I am putting a V8 in that BADBOY.

American Ford small block, bored and stroked to a 377, with a S trim Superchager, or dual HKS 2540s, and some giggle gas.

The 2540 should rock with the extra displacement. I will be doing some more research before I make my choice.

I might go a little higher comp, and use the 2510s, or the new GT-SS series. Damn the choices:biggrin:

So I take it, you're going RWD only on this car?

Damn dude! Where'd you find that thing at over there??

So I take it, you're going RWD only on this car? Yep, for now I will hook it up the factory rear. When I get back to the states, I will install a Ford Nodular 9", or until the factory rear lets go.:)



Damn dude! Where'd you find that thing at over there?? It was about an hour from the house, there are some decent deals over here, but I need some parts, can you hook me up, Kile when you get settled in Tokyo? There are a lot of things missing, hence the heap price.

The car is perfect for the swap, I could have not asked for a better carl.

whoa

turbo it

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
It was about an hour from the house, there are some decent deals over here, but I need some parts, can you hook me up, Kile when you get settled in Tokyo? There are a lot of things missing, hence the heap price.

The car is perfect for the swap, I could have not asked for a better car.


Of course I can dude, just let me know, R-32 parts are hella cheap!

You got my email, right?

Kile,

You have a PM.

Thanks man.

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
It was about an hour from the house, there are some decent deals over here, but I need some parts, can you hook me up, Kile when you get settled in Tokyo? There are a lot of things missing, hence the heap price.

The car is perfect for the swap, I could have not asked for a better carl.

If you're going to go with a V8 swap, please get a REAL v8:biggrin: Not a teeny tiny Ford! At least pick up a SBC if you want the cubes low! Go with a 383 or a 396 or a 40 or a 409. Chevy Chevy Chevy.

Yo SkylineUSA, is that Option Motorsport? :biggrin: :smile:

I see you've got plans for the car, dude. You aren't permenantly leaving UK are you? :frown:

is that Option Motorsport.

Yeah, you can see the sign in the pic:wink:

I am staioned here, for at least 2 more years, possibly 3.

If you're going to go with a V8 swap, please get a REAL v8 Not a teeny tiny Ford! At least pick up a SBC if you want the cubes low! Go with a 383 or a 396 or a 40 or a 409. Chevy Chevy Chevy I would never touch a chevy, I like the reliability of a ford:tongue:

I am a Ford guy, what do most of you chevy guys run for a rear end, I am thinking Ford 9":biggrin:

No, really I brought a 69 351w block with me, it can handle over 700hp with out any problems, but the more I think about it, I will try for 650-700hp instead of 750-800. It will hold up a little longer. Still not bad, for the amount of money it will cost.

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
is that Option Motorsport.

Yeah, you can see the sign in the pic:wink:

I am staioned here, for at least 2 more years, possibly 3.

I would never touch a chevy, I like the reliability of a ford:tongue:

I am a Ford guy, what do most of you chevy guys run for a rear end, I am thinking Ford 9":biggrin:

The For 9" is definately one of the stronger street rears, but I'm an amenity guy(you know, LSD, ABS, etc etc) so I still prefer the Moser 12bolt which is what I ran for quite a while in my car. If I go with another high powered buildup, I'll use it again. No probs whatsoevr(except probs due to my own stupidity:biggrin:).

Skyline what you going to use for heads?

Canfields, or Trick flow, or AFR 205s?

I have some TFS, but they are the batch, that had the problems.

Do you have advice on the sublect?

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
Canfields, or Trick flow, or AFR 205s?

I have some TFS, but they are the batch, that had the problems.

Do you have advice on the sublect?

Not too familiar with the Fords obviously, but wouldn't 205s be overkill with a really good port job? Or at least very close to it? I know I would never strap AFR210s on my 350. If I stroked it out to a 383 or 396, now that's a different story, but with only 350 cubes, 210s are too much. Think of it like this...You have a garden hose flowing as much water as it can, it's coming out fast, hard, and strong. Take that same amount of water and flow it through a heavy duty firehose. What do you get? Weakened pressure, with the water dribbling out of the hose. Flow VELOCITY is almost as important as flow volume in most cases. It's the same with heads. To size heads correctly takes a LOT of time, planning, and motor evaluation. There can be no guesswork involved if you're trying to get as much from the motor as possible.

Those are all good heads, Id stay away from Trickflow for this one just cause I dont think any of thier heads can flow as much as you need. If your gonna do AFR my fav. I'd go AFR225 with optional bigger exhuast ports for forced induction engines. Then send them to Total Engine Airflow for port work. Im running AFR225 done up by TEA on my all motor long chevy rod 393 and I love them.

If you want to go really crazy with heads Edelbrock Victors(drool). For my motor thet were a bit much. But for your TT set-up theyd unbeliavable

Originally posted by GTStang
Im running AFR225 done up by TEA on my all motor long chevy rod 393 and I love them.


What are you flowing on the bench???

These bench numbers are from TEA. After they worked thier magic the flow numbers at .400 lift and 28 of H2O were:

Intake 271cfm
Exuast 234cfm

Originally posted by GTStang
These bench numbers are from TEA. After they worked thier magic the flow numbers at .400 lift and 28 of H2O were:

Intake 271cfm
Exuast 234cfm

Damn good. What about @.500", @.550" and @.600" though? What does your cam package lift to?

You should just be hitting 300cfms on the intake side @ around .525" or so, right? What's your peak flow, even after maximum lift of the cam? Sounds like a decent port job(can't really go wrong with 225s though, hehe).

Take that same amount of water and flow it through a heavy duty firehose. What do you get? Weakened pressure, with the water dribbling out of the hose. Flow VELOCITY is almost as important as flow volume in most cases.

Self,

Ya, I have done a fair amount of research on the subject. Done a lot of research on cams as well, hech just engine stuff in general :biggrin: It's been a while though doing the Ford thing :wink:



GTStang,

Victors, are they that good? Being in England and on a budget does not help. I almost bought some Canfield stage 2, but I wanted to do some more research before I jump back into it.

Can you give me some insight of yoyr 393? Stock 302 pistons, 351w rods, is that right? Since I bought the GTR, I have focused more time on the Rb26DETT, so I really have lost my edge:comprage1

More flow numbers just for you Self:
.500 Intake 307 Exhuast 248
.600 Intake 320 Exhuast 253
.700 Intake 335 Exhuast 256
I have to find my cam card because it is a Custom grind Billet piece from Comp Cams my boss created for my engine. I'll try to remember some of the details of it. The lift is .625, the trick part of my cam is the larger lobe seperation off the shelf fuel injected cams can't provide(just to hard to tune)

Like most things there is more than 1 way to do it. Most common 393 is a 30 overbore. Stock 5.965 351W rods and a 3.850 stroker crank and a new set of pistons.
My 393 is comprised of I hate to say it Eagle ESP H-beam 6.3 small block chevy rods. Scat 4340 3.850 stroker crank with Chevy rod journals. JE pistons wit 1.275 comp. height

I have to find my cam card because it is a Custom grind Billet piece from Comp Cams my boss created for my engine. I'll try to remember some of the details of it. The lift is .625, the trick part of my cam is the larger lobe seperation off the shelf fuel injected cams can't provide(just to hard to tune How is the streetability of that engine? What compression are you running? 10.5?

I know what some thinks is wild, another guy thinks it mild.

I will not try to run anything more than .050 225, and lift of 525. I'll crunch the numbers for the intake and exhaust, once I get the flow rate for the heads I purchase. Thats why I like boost, because you can run a smaller cam, of course.

I am in the infant stage:frown:

Are you putting another engine in your GT-R? The RB26DETT owns all engines :redface:

If you have to do that to get to USA, that would really suck, hell, that'd be a good enough reason to stay here. Stupid import laws :mad:

Originally posted by GTStang
More flow numbers just for you Self:
.500 Intake 307 Exhuast 248
.600 Intake 320 Exhuast 253
.700 Intake 335 Exhuast 256
I have to find my cam card because it is a Custom grind Billet piece from Comp Cams my boss created for my engine. I'll try to remember some of the details of it. The lift is .625, the trick part of my cam is the larger lobe seperation off the shelf fuel injected cams can't provide(just to hard to tune)

Good good numbers. Stays strong after maximum lift too. Can't beat AFRs:smile: What was your lsa approx?
How does a CG solid roller of 262/274 on a 109 sounds:biggrin:
That's the last cam I was running in my quest for huge NA power. When I switched over to running a large n2o shot though, I switched to a 242/256 on a 113. Like the driveability of the nitrous cam, but can't beat the torque and massive power potential of the na solid. It pushed the 350 right to the treshhold though. Would have ran a lot better on a bigger motor, a 383 or a 396. The idle was rough as hell(but I liked that:biggrin:), gas mileage was almost non-existant, and the times when I made the long haul down to school(4 hours+ one way), it very nearly overheated, and didn't want to keep the engine turning at low RPMs after a while.



Originally posted by SkylineUSA
How is the streetability of that engine? What compression are you running? 10.5?

I know what some thinks is wild, another guy thinks it mild.

I will not try to run anything more than .050 225, and lift of 525. I'll crunch the numbers for the intake and exhaust, once I get the flow rate for the heads I purchase. Thats why I like boost, because you can run a smaller cam, of course.

I am in the infant stage:frown:

After you make your purchase, who are you going to have port them for you? I have a bunch of suggestions on guys who do REALLY good work if you need them:smile:
I don't know, but I'm guessing his motor ran pretty well on the street. I don't know what his cam specs were, but unless he was running a huge solid or something similar, that 396 probably ate it up without any problems. Big cubes like big flow and big cam:biggrin:

Are you putting another engine in your GT-R? The RB26DETT owns all engines

I am importing one for the street, and one for race, so the import laws have a little to do with it.

The RB26DETT does not own all engines, trust me:biggrin:

After you make your purchase, who are you going to have port them for you? I have a bunch of suggestions on guys who do REALLY good work if you need them Thanks Self, but I port my own:wink:

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
Thanks Self, but I port my own:wink:

Wow, really? That's great! I've tried a bench-port before on a set of spare heads...Let's just say the results were less than stellar:biggrin:

read: destroyed runners, out of round valve openings, and extremely rough flow characteristics!:icon16:

Tried another couple of times after that, and realized I wasn't skilled enough or patient enough to get the job done, hehe. That's one of the few things I leave to the "pro's".

Not everyone can do it:smile: I guess you hit a water passage?

I just spent 120hrs, sanding and polishing a set of rims for my GTR. I do have more patients than most.

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
Not everyone can do it:smile: I guess you hit a water passage?

I just spent 120hrs, sanding and polishing a set of rims for my GTR. I do have more patients than most.

Wow, that's cool. I really wish I could do some of that stuff! I wonder how much shipping is from the East Coast to over there...I might have to look into that. I could have you do some polishing for me:biggrin: Alternator, valve covers, intake piping and manifold, pullies...heheh, the possibilities are endless!:bigthumb:

I could have you do some polishing for me Alternator, valve covers, intake piping and manifold, pullies...heheh, the possibilities are endless!

You pay me 20 bucks an hour:bigthumb:

I do port and polishing of heads at my work but to squeeze every drop of flow and right velocities for certain engines go way beyond my skillz.
My engine is very reliable and I use it on the street all the time but it is over the edge for most Id assume. So much of the money was in tuning to get it to be reliable.

The engine blew, when the previous owner went to pass someone going 110mph, he down shifted started to accelerate, and in a matter of a couple of seconds the car started to look like a 4th of july sparkler. He said he was turning about 9k. Through a rod through the side of the block, the whole engine looked like swiss cheese.

I have couple of engine parts that have some fairly big holes in them and the power steering rack has a line that was pierced.

I am going to have to fab a little more than I bargained for, but that is half the fun.

It was original imported by Connolly Leather LTD, they are the company that does the leather work for Astin Martin, and Bentley. The first thing they did was install one of their custom leather interiors, doors, seats, headliner, and carpet very high quality. If I can find a scanner, I'll show you guys some pics of the car in its former glory.

As for the porting, I am no expert, but I has a fairly good running knowledge, and I set up a flow meter to make sure all the ports a running about the same volume. Majority of the work that I do is actually in the bowl area.

Now the fun begins:cheers:

I still feel robbed by your actions, SkylineUSA :eek: :mad: :redface: :frown:

When and if the gtr.co.uk boys find out about this, they will flame you alive. They'd be thinking what I thought - great car, great engine, great chassis dynamics, yet one of the most respected engines in the industry is pulled out for some old muscle engine. And this at a time when there has been talk about Jap vs USA cars over on that site, and I have stirred up some controversy with my thoughts on 'Vettes being badass :tongue: :biggrin:

:uhoh: :angryfire

You said you will go to TOTB next year - what car will you have? GT-R with some American engine? :confused:

Let see, the car has no engine, no ECU, no front drive train, no AATESA, no trunk, no power steering, no brakes, no radiator, no AC, no ect. You know how much it would cost to put all that back in the car. If I add real quick, I would say about 15k, is it worth 15k no.

Reality sucks, but its more benificial for me to do it this way. Plus its a challenge:wink:

Plus Id put a stroke and blown windsor against any other engine. Except for a stroked huff and puffin big block.

Skyline, how did you get the car in that state? Seems to me like you are getting what you deserve for not looking after the fine babe :biggrin: :eek:

You can bitch at the Brit that owned before me:biggrin2:

There are still some very usable items on it, but I am keeping those for spares my other GTR.

Like GTStang mentioned, I would put a stroked and blown windsor against any other engine. If you knew what we did, you would understand that:wink: