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#1
03-04-2003, 04:18 PM
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Slotted -vs- drilled brakes and what fits?
What fits? I have a base model Civic (Std.) and I am looking for either a pair of cross drilled or slotted rotors. Is there anything specific I should look out for or can I just 88-91 Rotors from like Brembo or someone? Also which works best slotted or drilled? Thanks.
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If you are ever in the southwest desert and you see a dust storm coming your way, when I see you I'll wave hello.  My Home Page: Under Heavy Construction 
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#2
03-04-2003, 04:59 PM
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I warped a set of powerstops with EBC pads. I now have EBC slotted rotors with EBC green pads. You can hear them when the window is down and sometimes feel the slots when you get on 'em hard.
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#3
03-04-2003, 09:12 PM
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Slotted are the go, crossdrilled warp and crack (yeah, race cars use them, but they also throw them away regularly).
EBC slotted with EBC greens on is a great combo 
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#4
03-04-2003, 09:23 PM
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Personally I think changing your rotors are a waste of money ... drilled rotors are old school anyways, reason they had em was so brakes got more air and didnt overheat, but now days, brakes seldom overheat, especially on our lightweight cars.
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 AF Bay Area Crew 97 Toyota T100 xcab 3.4l v6 5spd 2wd
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#5
03-04-2003, 09:55 PM
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2 Part reason for wanting to change the front brakes:
============================================= 1. Considering an engine swap, D16Z6, ZC, something. And I know there is not much change in weight. I just want something to handle the speed increase. 2. Becoming interested in AutoX, and I would like the extra stopping power for those occasions when you have to tap and go. ============================================= I am pretty sure the sizes differ between the Si and Std. Do DX and Std. have the same front rotor size?
__________________
If you are ever in the southwest desert and you see a dust storm coming your way, when I see you I'll wave hello. My Home Page: Under Heavy Construction
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#6
03-05-2003, 06:45 AM
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I have used my PowerSLOTs for a little over 2 years, I have noticed that I stop shorter that with standard off the shelf rotors.
I use regular ceramic brakepads.
__________________
2012 VW Golf 3 Door Automatic (Company Car)  2011 VW Golf Wagon 5 speed (Company Car) 2010 VW Jetta 2.5 Automatic (Company Car) 2009 VW City Jetta 5 Speed (Company Car) 2009 VW GLI 6 Speed (Company Car) 2008 VW Jetta 2.0T 6speed (Company Car) 1999.5 Audi A4 Quattro Sport 1.8t (Chipped 1.0 bar) Sold 1990 CRX Si (Built B17a) - Stripped and Crushed 1988 CRX Si -- Stolen 1990 Civic Cx -- Sold 1990 Civic Si -- Parted 1989 Civic dx -- Sold
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#7
03-05-2003, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh
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#8
03-05-2003, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
I've had Brembo cross drilleds on my car for 2 years now with PBR Metalmaster pads. I LOVE this setup. 3 times I've had the rotors so hot that they were smoking like something was on fire, and when I looked at the rotor they were RED hot like an electric stove. (my caliper siezed shut a couple times) They still to this day haven't warped one bit, and there are no cracks that can be seen.Don't believe the hype.. Cross drilled rotors are prefectly fine, I don't think I'll ever put anything less on my future cars.
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"The nympho of info, I'm fuckin' what ya heard" 
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#9
03-05-2003, 08:10 PM
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Ummm... YES I have!!! :finger: :finger: :finger:
On a TA22 Celica with 3TGTE 8plug DOHC 2liter with turbo and supra gearbox plus ford 9 inch diff. It was a club sprint car as well as a daily driver and pumped 214bhp at the rear wheels. At Oran park raceway it cracked the front drivers side rotor after 2 meets. Replaced under warentee, it then destroyed 4 more front cross-drilled rotors in under 5 months of street and track/hillclimb use. By comparison, the slotted I ran on a SLR 5000 Holden Torana with 351 chev pulled up the heavier car on the same track - using EBC slotted and greens. Braking difference was equivilent. At the risk of telling you to go fuck yourself for being so rude, I don't BS about my knowledge - it's based on what I have experienced. Other people who regularly run club cars on the track tell similar stories to what I have experienced. Of course, I guess 18 years of driving and 20 years of tinkering with cars means sweet FA to you.
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#11
03-05-2003, 08:19 PM
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man sentana just spanked your ass...
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#12
03-06-2003, 06:34 AM
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He didn't and won't go anywhere near my ass.
Why do you have to be a bitch because I question your credibility? You say I'm being rude, you're the one with "I'm gonna lash out like I'm some sort of tough guy" attitude. I was just asking if you had any experice with them. Do you know how many parrots there are out there on the internet who only talk about what they overheard? On a Honda Civic, good cross drilled rotors are a nice investment if you find that you warp regular rotors faster than you probably should. I had a problem with this as my car was faster than my brain a couple of years ago. So, the Brembo rotors have saved me from having to replace even more rotors in the meantime, and they've held up to all the wrong information that I see floating around the internet on all the different webboards.
__________________
"The nympho of info, I'm fuckin' what ya heard"
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#13
03-06-2003, 07:19 AM
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for once i agree with SiZ. (NOT directed at Setanta, i just agree with Siz's point) there is nothing worse than a "message board mechanic". Somebody who "knows" everything there is to know but has not actually done any wrech work.
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#14
03-06-2003, 07:25 AM
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So given your vast knowledge, you immediately assume that I'm a parrot? Go figure.
Having been on this forum for quite a while, I thought it was obvious I don't bullshit or play at being a mag racer. I live in a country where we call a spade a fucking shovel and in your case you were way out of line. But just for you, I'll dig out the aloe-vera tissues for your extra sensitive skin. Thanks for giving me the opportunity for posting this pic again 
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#15
03-06-2003, 02:50 PM
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There is another thread about this where a guy was posting on whether to buy slotted or drilled. Check it out.
I'll repeat some of it here. First of all drilled rotors are not for better cooling of the rotor. In fact they have the opposite effect. Rotors used to be drilled because brake pads would "gas" and the drilling relieved the pressure build up of this gas between your rotors and pads. Your rotor is a heat sink that absorbs the energy transferred to it in slowing the vehicle down. Any mass removed from this heat sink by drilling for example reduces your effectiveness. Slotted rotors also relieved the buildup of gas and also act as a cleaning agent as they scrape the pad surface clean on each revolution. You still see slotted rotors in racing but few drilled rotors as pads - especially street pads - no longer "gas" the way the old compounds did. Because of the cleaning action of the slotted they will also wear your pads more quickly. Talking to club racers (bmw scene) most recommend going with a standard rotor (vented in a bmw application) and proper brake ducting as all you need (on a m3 anyway). You can jump up to a 2 piece rotor for 3 times the cost or a cryo frozen rotor but if you do warp one (usually by poor braking technique) you can replace it 3 times for the cost of a more expensive rotor and have a new full depth braking surface. At 17 bucks each from Nopi that is certainly the way I plan to go - blanks.... My 2 cents.
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