sanding old paint

lckycharm713 · #1 10-13-2004, 06:14 PM

hey guys, i wnt out today and got a new 6" DA sander. 100 pack of 80 grit paper and a 33 gal compressor set up. 300 dollars home depot, good deal. came with alot of air tools. anyways, i hooked up the sander and it ate through the paint big time. should i used a finer grit paper. like 150. i dont want to get it down the metal, just in some spot, if i continue, i will mess everything up with the 80 grit. where the paint is good, i just want to scuff the surface so primer to stick right? please help. oh, and paint will cost 560 plus 200 for primer, does that seem high to you? its good paint, i beleive PPG. what you think

92rs25th · #2 10-13-2004, 06:24 PM

Tape off your windows , mirros and anything else you don't want painted and prime it yourself for like 20 bucks...
Oh yeah , just try using 100grit , 80 is a bit excessive and 150 will be a bit on the fine side. if you find 100 to still be too rough then go with 120.

92rs25th · #3 10-13-2004, 06:26 PM

Oh yeah , if you have an air compressor and a crap load of air tools , go pick up a gallon of auto primer , take the ride off get a paint sprayer that hooks up to air and blast that thing. Do your paint too , It will turn out just as good as long as you do it in quick strokes and the passes aren't too long. Car paint sucks when it starts to runa nd it's a bitch to fix and hide.

DaMoNe6969 · #4 10-13-2004, 07:20 PM

80 grit? you'l go right through the metal in no time with that shit.. If your only tryin to scuff it, Ide use 150 grit or 180 grit

lckycharm713 · #5 10-13-2004, 09:52 PM

yeah, the a**hole tood me 80. im going to bring the pack of 100 back and get 120-180. if i use the 80, ill have to use more bondo. oh yeah, the bondo i got was called zibra. he said that was good stuff. is that true? you say tape everything and primer it for 20 dollars. where can you get that for cheap. he told me 200. thats me doing it. i forgot what kinda it is. whats a good primer to use, im taking some down to the metal, but must just scuffing the old paint. the guy told me that i have to paint the car within 3 days after i primer it. is that true. if so, i cant do anything body work utill i get money for the paint plus the primer. seems to me that i have to find someone else to buy piant from.

lckycharm713 · #6 10-13-2004, 09:55 PM

the guy also told me that i can get the cheap omni paint. he said that its cheap and it will not hold up after about 3 years. meaning it will lose it shin b/c it has no UV protectors. is this guy screwing me over and just trying to get me to buy the best of the best. i mean, hes just a guy that works at a paint store, hes not the owner. who knows. what you think guys?

92rs25th · #7 10-13-2004, 10:37 PM

Employees are professional trained in screwing customers over. Just go to autozone or whatever and get four cans of spray primer. That will work plenty good enough , I did it on my dodge stealth and it held up for over 2 years with out any flawing.

GTStang · #8 10-13-2004, 11:31 PM

80 grit!?!?!?!?

220 at the lowest and even after that you need to go over it with 320 before you prime it cause the scratches from anything else are way to deep for the primer to fill.

$200 for primer..... if it's a gallon of PPG DP epoxy primer with all the catalyst to mix that gallon say 2-3 quarts of catalyst then that is a fairly reasonable price. If it is this is a very excellent kick ass primer and although it is mad expensive I higly reccomend it. Also prime and then use body fillers then primer over those spots. Helps to sal any moisture in the filler between the expoxy paint.

This is your first time painting so here is what I would reccomend for materials. I would stay away from one-stage jobs which can look very good but take an expirenced hand cause you need complete coverage in 2 coats 3 only if you must and there is no steps between to fix mistakes.

So for a two stage job in PPG brand I would roll with PPG DBU for basecoat this is the most user friendly basecoat PPG makes with excellent quality!

For clear I would use Omni's AU clear. Don't listen to what that guy says Omni's clear is used by many quality auto body places as there premium clearcoat. Also for you it is much more user-friendly than PPG's clear and the results for the PPG clear are minimally better if any.

Next do you have a gun? are you buying one? Honestly you see how much paint costs and you will make mistakes while learning which will cost you in more materials. Using a quality gun can save you from problems and your gonna need all the help you can get trust me! You can use a cheap gun for primer though

But get that sand paper one pack(5-6discs) of 220 and 320 for ya DA and that should handle a whole car no problem. Get back to us I'll try to help you through each step as much as possible.

lckycharm713 · #9 10-14-2004, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTStang

80 grit!?!?!?!?

220 at the lowest and even after that you need to go over it with 320 before you prime it cause the scratches from anything else are way to deep for the primer to fill.

$200 for primer..... if it's a gallon of PPG DP epoxy primer with all the catalyst to mix that gallon say 2-3 quarts of catalyst then that is a fairly reasonable price. If it is this is a very excellent kick ass primer and although it is mad expensive I higly reccomend it. Also prime and then use body fillers then primer over those spots. Helps to sal any moisture in the filler between the expoxy paint.

This is your first time painting so here is what I would reccomend for materials. I would stay away from one-stage jobs which can look very good but take an expirenced hand cause you need complete coverage in 2 coats 3 only if you must and there is no steps between to fix mistakes.

So for a two stage job in PPG brand I would roll with PPG DBU for basecoat this is the most user friendly basecoat PPG makes with excellent quality!

For clear I would use Omni's AU clear. Don't listen to what that guy says Omni's clear is used by many quality auto body places as there premium clearcoat. Also for you it is much more user-friendly than PPG's clear and the results for the PPG clear are minimally better if any.

Next do you have a gun? are you buying one? Honestly you see how much paint costs and you will make mistakes while learning which will cost you in more materials. Using a quality gun can save you from problems and your gonna need all the help you can get trust me! You can use a cheap gun for primer though

But get that sand paper one pack(5-6discs) of 220 and 320 for ya DA and that should handle a whole car no problem. Get back to us I'll try to help you through each step as much as possible.

ok, i am usingbase coat clear coat. yellow. and yes ppg. i have 2 paint guns i just got, i got everything i need for it. i even built at paint booth.. you say 220 grit? and only a 5 pack of disks? i got a 5 pack of 320 3m gold. i think it 3m. all i know its gold brand, she said its really good. and no its just good primer, not the epoxy/ i was going to go with that, but he said its not sandable. hey CTStang, do you have a screen name on AIM or yahoo. if so, can you send me a messege on here with that so i cant talk about this with you. this car needs to get done and done right and it starting to get to me. you seem like you know what your talking about, i said that b4. send me a private messge with your screen name. , talk with you soon

Chevyracincamaro · #10 10-14-2004, 10:42 PM

every time you post i want a bowl of lucky charms

Robs71Nova · #11 10-15-2004, 05:47 AM

GT STang basocally hit it on the head. Your gonna wanna scuff it up with some 150 or so grit then go back over it with a finer, 320 grit. IMO you cant really put TOO many coats of primer. After you get the car sanded, shoot a coat of primer, look for problem areas, fix them, spray more primer, and keep repeating until its fixed. Primer will fill in those little hair fine scratchs you otherwise wouldn't see until its painted. I painted BOTH my 71 Nova and recently my 69 Corvette with Omni products, (see my signature) so I can tell you from experience they are pretty good. One word of advice is when using the AU Gold omni clear (from my experience ) its best to mix about 10-15% reducer with the clear. The Omni Au gold clear dries pretty fast as far as clears go and doesn't give the clear enough time to "lay down" and reduce some of the orange peel. I would recommend spraying an "extra" coat of clear on the car. Do this so if your not happy with the amount of orange peel (this being you first paint job, expect some) you can wetsand the clear with some 1200-1500 grit sandpaper and buff the car back out to a beautiful shine. If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to answer them.. my AIM is pimpin71nova

Rob

Robs71Nova · #12 10-15-2004, 05:51 AM

Another thing I meant to say was (which GT STang mentioned) is try not to use the same paint gun for spraying primer and paint. I have heard from professional paint guys that spraying primer does something to the gun where its fine for spraying more primer, but won't spray the paint very well, even if cleaned. If you plan on painting alot I would recommend getting a gravity paint gun which are almost twice as much as regular guns, but worth it IMO. There are really good conventional guns and you can do just as good a job with one, it just takes a little more getting used to.

Rob

Pewter'01SS · #13 10-15-2004, 07:57 AM

Also, if you don't already have one, get some type of a water trap or water filter for the compressor.

lckycharm713 · #14 10-15-2004, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robs71Nova

GT STang basocally hit it on the head. Your gonna wanna scuff it up with some 150 or so grit then go back over it with a finer, 320 grit. IMO you cant really put TOO many coats of primer. After you get the car sanded, shoot a coat of primer, look for problem areas, fix them, spray more primer, and keep repeating until its fixed. Primer will fill in those little hair fine scratchs you otherwise wouldn't see until its painted. I painted BOTH my 71 Nova and recently my 69 Corvette with Omni products, (see my signature) so I can tell you from experience they are pretty good. One word of advice is when using the AU Gold omni clear (from my experience ) its best to mix about 10-15% reducer with the clear. The Omni Au gold clear dries pretty fast as far as clears go and doesn't give the clear enough time to "lay down" and reduce some of the orange peel. I would recommend spraying an "extra" coat of clear on the car. Do this so if your not happy with the amount of orange peel (this being you first paint job, expect some) you can wetsand the clear with some 1200-1500 grit sandpaper and buff the car back out to a beautiful shine. If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to answer them.. my AIM is pimpin71nova

Rob

sweet, thanks for all this info you guys are helping me with. im going to IM you later when i get the chance. and yes, i have 2 guns, i have one witha 1.4 tip and one with a 1.7 tip.

lckycharm713 · #15 10-15-2004, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevyracincamaro

every time you post i want a bowl of lucky charms

so go get some lucky charms. LOL. you know whats funny, speaking of name brand cereals, i went into shopright the other night and they wanted 6.29 for a box of cheerios cereal. thats retsarted, i thnought a box was like a dollars something. lol. anyway, not to get off topic.

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