-
Grand Future Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Fresh Beef

Carnivore Diet for Dogs

Go Back   Automotive Forums Car Chat > Honda > Civic | CRX > '92-'95 Civic | EL | Civic Hybrid | Civic GX NGV
Register FAQ Community
Reply Show Printable Version Show Printable Version | Subscription Subscribe to this Thread
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 01-25-2002, 02:26 PM
JLogan JLogan is offline
AF Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to JLogan
H22 in Civic Hatch

I want to put an H22 into a civic hatch, a 95 to be specific. is this a pretty easy swap? I've heard the added power causes traction problems in the front end, can this be solved with suspension mods like coilovers? what other problems could this swap cause?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-25-2002, 02:32 PM
Rice-Rocketeer Rice-Rocketeer is offline
AF Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,195
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
From the FAQ:

H22A1, H23A1, H22A4: The H23A1 came on the lude Si’s, the highly acclaimed H22A1 came on the 4th gen Si VTEC models and H22A4 came on the 5th generation Si VTEC’s.. And all three engines are MONSTERS compared to what we’re used to. The H22A1 produces a nice 190 hp while the H22A4 produces an even greater 195hp and the H23A1 produces 160hp but they all produce a THICK ASS 160 lb.-ft of torque at relatively low rpm. Giving your 2500lb civic wheel spinning capabilities comparable to a V8 F-body. The whole engine should cost about the same as a GSR swap, $3000-$3500. The down side is the fact that the engine also weighs about 200 lbs. more than the engine you have in your bay now. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems.

From talks with several veteran H22 swappers I can give you the overall driving opinion. To make the swap work, first off the springs and shocks in the front need to be stiffened to appropriately handle the extra weight. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. There is another way to offset the understeer problem but most ppl don't want to go through with it. It involves placing a few hundred pounds of weight in the trunk to even out the weight distribution. But most ppl want to go the other way by stripping everything out of the interior, effectively making it worse. The cooling system will amazingly enough be fine for about 75% of the time. However, on hot days or with spirited driving, the engine can start to overheat itself. For the financially strapped, an extra wide Integra radiator can be swapped in for about $100 that will provide all the extra cooling you need. You can learn about it here: http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/jsrad/jsrad.html. If you have the extra money, you could swap in an all aluminum thick ass racing radiator with a smaller and more efficient fan and for extra insurance, a low temperature thermostat (160 degree rather than 180) could be replaced. Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating. The braking system for the most part could work but if you really want to trust your life to stock system, be my guest. If you'd like to upgrade it, the cheap way is to replace the rotors for better heat dissipation (You could either get stock sized cross-drilled or slotted rotors, or you could opt for a bigger rotor kit that uses a relocated bracket so you can use the stock calipers) better brake pads and rear brake disk swap if not already equipped. If you have some money, you could get a 4-piston caliper upgrade with extra large rotors with great pads. Just the thing to stop you at 150 mph. If you do opt for the bigger rotor upgrade, remember that the stock wheels will no longer fit over the larger brakes. Some systems suggest 16” or larger.

Let me remind you that this is all extra $$$. The basic swap still includes about $1000 worth of junkyard parts just to make it work, which includes axles, linkages, ECU, HASport mounts, etc. PLUS the cost of the engine itself. This is definitely not the cheap swap.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-25-2002, 03:40 PM
Si2000 Vtec Si2000 Vtec is offline
AF Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 303
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to Si2000 Vtec
What a bunch of mumbo-jumbo... Chicks dig H22's and that's the bottom line...

J/k, very informative on the H22. Most of which I knew, but I wasn't aware of the overheating problem.

Have you ever heard of any body-panel problems? I knew a guy with the 95 Hatch/H22 setup whos doors were scraping against his front fenders because of the tight-squeeze... my guess is incorrectly welded motor mounts? Not sure though, I don't think it was a torque/frame issue.

Again, very good realization of the H22 problems. Nice post Rice.
__________________
---------------------------------------
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-25-2002, 03:44 PM
JLogan JLogan is offline
AF Newbie
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to JLogan
if the H22 comes with overheating problems, braking, and understeering problems, what would be a better swap with comparable HP? I was considering possibly the B18C? What would you suggest that would be an easier and cheaper swap than the H22 , but posts comparable hp?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-25-2002, 04:08 PM
Rice-Rocketeer Rice-Rocketeer is offline
AF Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,195
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Si2000 Vtec
Have you ever heard of any body-panel problems? I knew a guy with the 95 Hatch/H22 setup whos doors were scraping against his front fenders because of the tight-squeeze... my guess is incorrectly welded motor mounts? Not sure though, I don't think it was a torque/frame issue.
LoL...Wow now that's a new one. The only way the door would scrape the fender (I'm assuming when you goto open the door) would cause the fender was pushed back some. And the fender has nothing to do with the engine or placement. I mean if the tight squeeze of the engine as so much that it actually pushed the frame out (And inturn the fender that's bolted to it) Then he's got more problems then just scraping.

Quote:
Originally posted by JLogan
if the H22 comes with overheating problems, braking, and understeering problems, what would be a better swap with comparable HP? I was considering possibly the B18C? What would you suggest that would be an easier and cheaper swap than the H22 , but posts comparable hp?
The B20Vtec would be the only thing "out of the box" that would be anywhere near the H22 HP and torque ratings. You gotta play around with it and get some different OEM parts for it but it'll still kick ass and you'll still get power steering, AC and none of the usual weight problems.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...=189840&t=5861
Reply With Quote
 
Reply

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD

Go Back   Automotive Forums Car Chat > Honda > Civic | CRX > '92-'95 Civic | EL | Civic Hybrid | Civic GX NGV


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:20 AM.

Community Participation Guidelines | How to use your User Control Panel

Powered by: vBulletin | Copyright Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
 
 
no new posts