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Old 08-01-2008, 05:05 PM   #16
Sdedeker
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 Old Bravada and wanted to just give a brief rundown on my experience. First of all THANKS Delcoch for the write up. It helped me out a lot. I did find a few differences in my application. First of all I did not have flare nuts on the fuel lines that were attached to the fuel pump. I had some quick disconnect plastic connectors. All I had to do was take a pair of pliers and press the two tabs on each side and then pull the hose off. It took me about 30 minutes to figure this out because of the tight space and very little visabilty, but once I did they came off in about 30 seconds. I also did not find any epoxy or other type of material sealing the pump. Other than that, my total time was about 3 hours from start to finish. I took the beast out and now it runs like it use to with no hesitation or stumbling.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:00 PM   #17
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Little help here...?

I got the 2 strap bolts almost all the way off - just enough left to hold the weight if it drops. It will NOT drop tho', enough for me to disconnect the filler neck and vent neck hoses, and finish draining half a tank.

What else is holding the tank, besides the 2 straps?

On the rear strap, I already got loose the OUTBOARD bolts, and the plastic shield removed.

What holds the rear strap in the frame rail???

Anybody?
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:02 PM   #18
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

And do you HAVE TO remove the rear wheel to do this?
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:42 PM   #19
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

What was holding me up IS the filler tube and the vent tube. The rubber lines are stout pieces, and they are the actually the only thing holding up the tank right now (on the back end - front is on the crossmember).

In fact the 2 hoses are so stiff, they are holding up half a tank of gas. AND, they are NOT frozen onto the necks. I've gotten a screwdriver under the hose tip, hit it with some armor all, work the screwdriver a little, and the hoses are both loose on the necks; just VERY STIFF, and there's almost no wiggle room. Not enough anyway to worry about spillin' the half tank it I could break it free.

So I carefully cut 2 slits in the hose from the top to the bottom clamp (still tight), peeled it back, and cut. It gave me enough of an opening to get in a small siphon hose, and draw about 7-8 gallons.

Now I should be able to cut the vent hose section likewise, and just lower the tank, in the am. The fuel feed and return lines came off ok, but the third hose at the pump head got 'kinked'. Might need replacement too...
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:56 AM   #20
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

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Originally Posted by cbec1999 View Post
And do you HAVE TO remove the rear wheel to do this?
It makes things a little easier to get to when you have that rear tire off. I even dropped the spare tire and got it out of the way.

Since it has been almost a year now, I don't remember a lot of the fine details. I do know I had to fight the filler hose and it took a lot of muscle to get it off. But with a little work it did come off and I didn't make any cuts into anything. I do believe that I had to replace the hose clamp as it was in pretty bad shape. Also, make sure that you detach the front vent hose and not just yank it out. What I did was place a motorcycle jack under the gas tank, that way I had full control over how fast it came down. I had very little gas left in mine but it was still fairly heavy and I would have hated to try and manhandle it by myself. My biggest issues were getting the hose clips off of the pump. I was expecting flare nuts but mine had some quick disconnects that if I did not have the rear tire off, it would have been almost next to impossible to get off due to space issues getting my arms up in there. It probably took me 2 hours to get it out and 1 hour to get it back in.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:49 AM   #21
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

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Originally Posted by Sdedeker View Post
It makes things a little easier to get to when you have that rear tire off. I even dropped the spare tire and got it out of the way.

Since it has been almost a year now, I don't remember a lot of the fine details. I do know I had to fight the filler hose and it took a lot of muscle to get it off. But with a little work it did come off and I didn't make any cuts into anything. I do believe that I had to replace the hose clamp as it was in pretty bad shape. Also, make sure that you detach the front vent hose and not just yank it out. What I did was place a motorcycle jack under the gas tank, that way I had full control over how fast it came down. I had very little gas left in mine but it was still fairly heavy and I would have hated to try and manhandle it by myself. My biggest issues were getting the hose clips off of the pump. I was expecting flare nuts but mine had some quick disconnects that if I did not have the rear tire off, it would have been almost next to impossible to get off due to space issues getting my arms up in there. It probably took me 2 hours to get it out and 1 hour to get it back in.
I already had the rear on ramps when I saw 'Pull the wheel'. AND, I disconnected the 3 pump lines not at the pumphead, but at the joint by the framerail.

I work slowly, and take pics as I go (WISH YOU COULD POST PICS HERE!!!)(I GOT MY WATER PUMP PICS TOO) I photo doc all Jimmy and vette work for if I re-sell.

I had no choice but to cut the filler hose. Did NOT want to, but I couldn't force it off, with a half tank ready to pour out.

Front vent hose? Do you see it here
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:16 PM   #22
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdedeker View Post
Just replaced the fuel pump on my 2000 Old Bravada and wanted to just give a brief rundown on my experience. First of all THANKS Delcoch for the write up. It helped me out a lot. I did find a few differences in my application. First of all I did not have flare nuts on the fuel lines that were attached to the fuel pump. I had some quick disconnect plastic connectors. All I had to do was take a pair of pliers and press the two tabs on each side and then pull the hose off. It took me about 30 minutes to figure this out because of the tight space and very little visabilty, but once I did they came off in about 30 seconds. I also did not find any epoxy or other type of material sealing the pump. Other than that, my total time was about 3 hours from start to finish. I took the beast out and now it runs like it use to with no hesitation or stumbling.

My story almost exactly on my 2000 Bravada.

Difference is I read this post first so I skipped the half hour or trying to figure out how the fuel lines disconnect.

All in all a very easy project. I jacked up the left side of the vehicle and placed it on jack stands. I removed the left rear tire and the spare tire. The few minutes to do these things is well worth the gains in accessibility to everything.

The most difficult part of the project for me was separating the large fill hose from the tank. You just can't seem to get a good angle for pulling on it. I let the weight of the partially full tank, mixed with twisting the large hose, do the work to separate them. I drained the last 5 gallons from my tank after I removed it.

I'm pretty convinced the vehicle is running much better than it has run in a long time. It COULD be my imagination, but I think the engine was a lot smoother and more responsive after the procedure. Sadly, I have passed my beloved Bravada on to my wife, as her daily commuter now, so I don't have as much wheel time on it, but I have been a little un-impressed with its performance of late. Driving it with the new pump restored my delight and satisfaction with this vehicle.

While I already had one of the wheels off I took the opportunity to replace the rear brake pads at the same time (I replaced pads on both sides). Total time, fuel pump and pads, was about 3.5 - 4 hours and that was with a ton of distractions.
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:24 PM   #23
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Oh yeah, one thing I did that I think is worth mentioning is I used compressed air to blow all the dirt and debris out from around the old pump before unsealing its lockring. There was lots of dirt caked around it and I didn't want it all falling into the tank when I removed the old pump, so I blasted it away with compressed air.

I completely removed the tank and stuffed rags in the filler holes before blowing the dirt away. Then I un-twisted the lock ring and blew more dirt away before unseating the old pump.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:50 PM   #24
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

After 4 hours today I got my tank out and am ready to reinstall, but when removing the front tank strap nut I tore the bolt off with it as it was seized up on myy 1998 chevy blazer. I'm thinking that the bolt part that attaches with 2 rivets directly to the frame is a dealer only part?

Can anyone verify this and provide the part number if you got one?

Thanks,

Hans
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:44 AM   #25
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by hans109h View Post
After 4 hours today I got my tank out and am ready to reinstall, but when removing the front tank strap nut I tore the bolt off with it as it was seized up on myy 1998 chevy blazer. I'm thinking that the bolt part that attaches with 2 rivets directly to the frame is a dealer only part?

Can anyone verify this and provide the part number if you got one?

Thanks,

Hans
As I recall that part comes with the strap. I had to cut the bolt off of mine and was dreading the final result until I saw it was easily replaced. (again, as I recall) I bought mine at a dealer out of convenience, but it wasn't a major expense.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:38 PM   #26
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

i have a question, has anyone ever tried using an external pump on one of these? if the fuel will flow through the existing pump, i would think it would be a LOT less trouble to mount an external pump than try to go through all this trouble.
I have already spent most of a day, and i have gotten just about nowhere trying to do this. i know that being old with arthritis does not help. but in many places, only a 1:500th scale man could ever even get into to some of these places to remove bolts, nuts, or clamps. /// i do however know of a very easy way to do this job. it involves an abandoned gravel pit, and 300 pounds of TNT! oh, and you will need $30,00.00 to purchase a new vehicle afterwards. but the results would be very gratifying!
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:52 PM   #27
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Some of the older fuel injected Ford vehicles use an external pump ....along with a low pressure, high volume pump inside the tank The problem with installing an external pump, without an internal "lift" pump, is that it can't "lift" the fuel from the tank and still build sufficient pressure at the injectors. The cost and effort involved to "cobble it" far exceeds the cost and effort to fix it right
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:56 PM   #28
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

i have 2 questions about this. looking for a replacement pump module assembly, i found one at advance auto parts, an ac delco pump (p/n MU1755), for $371.99. it says it fits 2 door models (which mine is) EXCEPT those with a Robust fuel sender (k53). how do i know if i have this? my suv is a stick shift model, so with my luck, it is probably something weird. /// 2nd question is, while checking to see if there was actually poer getting back to the pump, one of the terminals lit the power tester, but it was quite dim, like it was maybe 6 volts. but when i checked it, it registered 12v. this doesn't seem right to me. any idea's? the manual i have is a Haynes. it leaves a LOT to be desired. but it is better than nothing.
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:37 PM   #29
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

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Originally Posted by XWrench3 View Post
....i found a [pump] at advance auto parts, an ac delco pump (p/n MU1755), for $371.99. it says it fits 2 door models (which mine is) EXCEPT those with a Robust fuel sender (k53). how do i know if i have this?
Check the RPO codes in the glove box for K53, (very rare option).


Quote:
Originally Posted by XWrench3 View Post
....getting back to the pump, one of the terminals lit the power tester, but it was quite dim, like it was maybe 6 volts. but when i checked it, it registered 12v. this doesn't seem right to me. any idea's?....

Year, make & model is necessary to answer this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by XWrench3 View Post
....the manual i have is a Haynes. it leaves a LOT to be desired...
You ain't kiddin' there, that's the problem with them. Half of the information is missing, the other half is flat out wrong, and you can't trust ANY of the specs they publish. Total waste of paper.

Quote:
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.....but it is better than nothing.
Nope. In this case, "nothing" would be better.
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:22 PM   #30
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Quote:
Year, make & model is necessary to answer this.
2000 GMC Jimmy sls conveinience pkg, 4 wd, 5 speed manual, 2 door
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