Fujimi R32 GTR

[Ryko]

Hey guys! Long time lurker here.

Quick intro - from Croatia, 27, did some model planes back in my elementary school days, F-14's and F-117's, got that from my father who build some ships in his day, and my grandpa who built the ship in a bottle while he was sailing.

But that didn't hold me too long so I dropped it. Fast forward to the winter of 2011, I was looking at some stuff on eBay, and somehow stumbled upon this guy who sold 1/24 scale cars. I thought about it for a second, saw what cars he offered and decided to give it a go.

I chose the R32 GTR because I want to build all the cars I always wanted to own. I didn't know difference from die cast and resin...still don't and so I order the Tamiya model.



When I ordered the car, I saw the option to order the wheels. BBS LM 18" seemed like a nice fit for this car. Before I even bought the car, I knew what kind of look I want, color, wheels etc.





I was surprised by the big brakes I got - but I was disappointed by the lack of lip on the wheel. I don't know how to change the offset on them I don't dare cutting the center of the wheel, I don't see how I can make it perfectly round with my knife. So I'll settle with this look.

Now, when I got the car I didn't have any cement, tools, nothing. I didn't know what tools I need. So I went and trial-assembled it with some sticky tape





The BBS's were ridiculously huge out of the box...and made the car look dumb. I didn't know what to do so I just put the car away until I get more info on tools and all that...because without tools, this is the best I could make the car look




So, last week I went to the shop and got some basic stuff. Tamiya cement, super-thin cement, flat black and metal gray color. I didn't buy thinners. So - this week I decided to assemble the chassis.


The regular wheels fit nice, but the car looks plain...so the decision was made - make the BBS big wheels fit under (or as close to as possible) the fenders.


This is how it looks with BBS's out of the box. Ridiculous.


Removing the spacers


Grinding the struts (the hood of the car falls on this part, so grinding it down makes the front of the car sit a bit lower)


Much better.



Satisfied. To make these big wheels fit inside the fenders I sacrificed few things...the "spacers" were cut down and I cut off the tie rod on the steering knuckle. So, the car won't have steering. But I have no problems with that.

Next stop - get some thinner and detail the interior. I'll paint the car in my friends garage with a "real" compressor and I'll use actual car paint. I know the color I want, but I'm still thinking should I go with metallic / flake or not. I don't like how the big flakes look on 1/24 car.

Love this hobby. Already thinking about the next build.

[MPWR]

Welcome to AF!

(I moved your thread to "In Progress", as you're working on building this one.)

I think the BBS's look great on the R32. (Ever seen Wangan Midnight?) Good choice for a first car build.

[Ryko]

Originally Posted by MPWR

I think the BBS's look great on the R32. (Ever seen Wangan Midnight?)

Yes, that's actually the way I found the car in the first place...lookin for some Wangan midnight stuff (DVD's) on eBay

[Ryko]

Since I can't work on the car (didn't buy all the equipment necessary) I'll ask some basic questions. The next stop in my supercar adventures :d is the interior. I have a couple of questions, just to know what should I buy next time I go to the hoby shop (which is almost 2 hours away so I need to get everything, I wouldn't like to forget something and drive again )

- how should I glue the decals on the interior (and exterior after I get the painjob done).
- could I use "regular" brushes, because the brushes in the hobby shop are pretty expensive, $5 for a piece...
- what thinner can i use for Tamiya acrylic? Any alternative (household item maybe?) to Tamiya brand?
- using spray paint for the interior, any good? Do I need to primer the interior?

and finally

- how to color the tail lights? brush or air?

[Ryko]

Spent some time on the net lookin for different techniques and build threads...saw people painting tail lights with shapries. Took the sharpies I had at home, tried, nothing. Barely leaves any color on the plastic and can be wiped off with a finger.

Then I tried this - a piece of red paper (cardboard, from some pencil box) behind the clear plastic. It looks flat, but I think it could work if I made the paper mask according to the actual tail lights (amber where amber needs to be, clear and red).



Im thinking about getting another scale car to build under this one

[ShadowBroker]

Originally Posted by Ryko

- how should I glue the decals on the interior (and exterior after I get the painjob done).
- could I use "regular" brushes, because the brushes in the hobby shop are pretty expensive, $5 for a piece...
- using spray paint for the interior, any good? Do I need to primer the interior?

Hey Ryko, you don't glue decals on, cut finely along the edges, then put the decal in water and slide unto the model, press down with cloth to remove excess water and air bubbles, when it is dry it will stay on.

The reason those brushes are expensive is because they have much finer hair which doesn't fall out while painting, that will save you from frustration while doing fine detailing.

I spray the interior and then brush the details on, also, if you are going to use automotive paints, make sure it isn't too hot for plastic, in other words, fast drying automotive paint may melt your plastic model, here is some more info on that:
http://www.finescale.com/en/Online%2...%20models.aspx

Nice model choice to begin with btw, I like the old jdm car, keep us updated on your progress

[Ryko]

Thanks!

Question about colors - I decided to give my first go with Tamiya spray paint. Now, they have a selection of colors - but can I mix them to achieve some different effect?

For instance can I take purple color for base and spray clear white pearl over it?

[ShadowBroker]

Originally Posted by Ryko

Thanks!

Question about colors - I decided to give my first go with Tamiya spray paint. Now, they have a selection of colors - but can I mix them to achieve some different effect?

For instance can I take purple color for base and spray clear white pearl over it?

I guess you could, haven't done that myself, but if you want the pearl effect there is a clear pearl from tamiya which you could spray over your purple for example, that clear is called TS-65 Pearl clear

[euro_z]

Nice choice! The Fujimi body looks like its molded nicer then the Tamiya one I'm working on.
Using paper for the lights.. that's new! Doesn't look bad either. I'm curious how it would look if you printed a photo of the real taillights to scale, might have some more depth.

[Ryko]

didn't have much time lately...but I did my first upholstery today one random carton box and a sharpie knife, pinch of grinded pencil dust, hair spray and black pencil...

[Marianitem]

Welcome to the forum!

Before my tips for you let me ask something about the Pearl Clear you were recomended: does anybody know if there is any PEARL CLEAR paint sold not as spray? I cannot find TS paints in my country, and shipping them is a bit problematic. Any suggestions?

Now, some answers to your questions

About your Q on thinners:
Regular option is X20A. You can buy it in big bottles. But, as it smelled like alcohol, I decided to try something cheaper.
I use almost exclusively Tamiya Acrylics for all parts related to interior, chassis and engine (everything but the body). For that purpose I thin them with alcohol (the one you have in your emergency box, medical use, you name it). It actually dries very fast when airbrushing so it saves you lots of time. There´s no compatibility issue, at least with every alcohol bottle i have used so far. I also use it to clean my AB and brushes, and to soften the brush while brush painting details.

About primer on interior and small parts:
It is recommended to use primer Always, as it helps paint to stick to surface (it works). Anyway, when I have a 1/24 chassis molded in black, and I will finally paint it black... I don´t want to waste so much paint, and I´m not a fan of detailing chassis. So I just give it a light shot of the same color over the bare plastic and that gives it a little bit of texture, a "painted look", good enough for me. But if you are a purist, apply 3 thin layers of primer, then sand down to desired texture, then use all the paint you need to cover everything to the desired color (definitely not my choice). I also use my economic technique on chassis parts that are already molded in the color I need them.
I found a primer on an art warehouse/store. It is sold as a thick cream or "paste" (like toothpaste you know). I also thin down with alcohol. It is really cheap, thinned cheap, applies perfectly smooth and it works.

Clear parts for lights: you can use "clear red" or "clear orange" acrylic paint for them. x27 and x26. A jar of each will last you for ever. Beware they are kinda tricky as they get sticky.

Tip: get some X22 gloss clear, but not only for the gloss effect. Acrylic paints, specially flat colors, may become a bit fragile and rub off when manipulating. If you are going to mask a paintjob, first apply primer, then paint first color, apply a thin coat of clear to protect it, then mask, then paint second color. Sounds like a PITA, but it will save you headaches.

Hope this helps

BTW: using the products I mentioned I managed to take every interior and chassis part from the R35 Fujimi kit, primer everything, paint everything on about 6 colours, brush paint details, and assemble full chassis in half a day. Please note that I work very slowly.