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Old 05-05-2004, 02:20 PM   #1
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Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

Well you came to the right place for Radio Control Drifting.

Let’s start off with what is drifting. Well, the simple explanation would be losing traction on the rear tires, then pitching the car sideways around a turn and maintaining control of the car around the corner. But it is much more complicated than that.

Why might you ask that we drift? Well drifting is considered a huge sport in Japan and is now moving around the world to become a world class motor sport. It doesn't just look cool its even more fun doing it! Considering most of can't get our hands onto a real drifter. We are going to be drifting with 1:10 scale RC's. So take a look though here and if you’re new to the world of R/C cars, there are many to chose from. You have the electric cars, the mini cars, and then the nitro cars. Pick which one that is within your budget and start drifting. All cars here are 4WD. hopefully you can decide which one will be great for you. Also take the time to look at all the information in here. It can save you a lot of trouble of asking a question or two.

Cars you should use.

Most important thing to know is that you will need a 4WD car. Not a 2WD car. Why might you ask that I said 4WD, because it allows you to have great control of your car to start the drift and in mid to end drift. So the long list of car’s and parts and other things that you might need are in here. So take a look. And if you have any other questions be sure to ask them.

Tamyia:

The Tamiya TL-01 is a shaft driven car just like the newer TT-01. Both cars are cheap in price wise and are perfect for a new person to R/c’s in general. Also Tamiya makes some of the best high quality R/C touring cars on the market. These include the TRF series of cars.

AMG Mercedes CLK-DTM 2002 TL-01 Kit $105
350Z TT-01 $119
TL-01's and parts. Tl-01's are kits only.

Tamiya TRF415 Chassis $460
Evo IV
Tamiya Calsonic Z500 RTR (TT-02 Chassis) $225
Tamiya Xanavi Nismo Z $130
Tamiya TB Evolution IV Kit $540

Team Associated:

Team Associated makes the car called the TC3. It is a shaft driven car that has won many world races. It is also a nice car for a new person to R/c’s. There are many hop up’s for this car, like different chassis and other chassis parts. Also look forward to the TC4. Only complaint I have on this car is the RTR car with its lower quality radio system. But that is just my opinion.

Associated TC3 RTR w/Stratus Body $220
Associated TC3 Racer Kit w/Stratus Body $155
Associated TC3 Team Touring Car Kit $210
Associated TC3 Factory Team Kit $280
Associated TC4 Team Touring Car Kit $209


Team Losi:

The company of Team Losi is world know for a having great off road cars. So they made touring car. It is a belt driven chassis type. It also has many hop ups. The best thing about the xxx-s that I know of is that the RTR model has one of the best radios that ever did come with a RTR car of any type.

XXX-S Sport RTR w/ JR Radio $270
XXX-S Graphite Plus $270
XXX-S Sport RTR II w/XR2i $270

Hpi Racing:


Hpi Racing has many kits for you. They have the Sprint for a low budget car. All the way up to the pro 4 if you want a pure race machine. So here are a list of there cars for you, also both cars are belt driven. Don’t for get to look for the Sprint 2 coming out soon.

RS4 Sport 2 w/Nissan Silvia Body
HPI RS4 Pro 4 Touring Car $320

Yokomo:

They have a car just for drifting. It is just like the MR-4TC SD SSG but only made with a different type of material instead of carbon fiber. But it is still a great kit. It is a shaft driven car along with the MR-4TC.

Nissan 180SX Drifter Car Electric Kit $235
MR-4TC SD SSG Special Chassis Kit $340

Schumacher:

There are two electric cars. Both that I know of have no electric components, so really they are just a roller. There is the SST mission and the MI2. The mission is cheaper and the MI2 is a more higher end. Both of these cars are belt driven.

Mission
MI2

Team Trinity

Team Trinity has a car now that is good for drifting. It is called the T-Spec. It is a kit. One model comes with the Car only. And the other comes with the motor, battery and body. But then you need to get the radio equipment. These cars are shaft driven.

Trinity T-Spec Kit w/Motor/Battery/Body $125
Trinity T-Spec Roller only $100

Traxxas:

Traxxas has great off road trucks to beat the heck out of. But we are here to drift. The only elec car that is good enough to drift from them is the 4-Tec. It is a belt driven car.

Traxxas 4-Tec 4WD RTR w/Radio $180

Team X-ray

These cars are more of racing but if you have one any one of them you could drift with them. But i highly say don't do it. But it is your car. Too nice of a car to drift with. There is the T1 EVO2 Factory Kit which is a roller. It is a belt driven car.

XRAY T1 FACTORY KIT 1/10 $340
T1 Raycer

Kawada

Is a company in Japan. What more is there to say. Well they have one car that i know of that is the SV-10 Sigma. It is a Belt driven car. Well they also have the SV-10 Alcyon, which is also belt driven. The sigma is the higher end model of the SV-10. While the alcyon is the more of a basic kit, sort of like what the car is made out of. They are not RTR's. So that means they both are rollers.

SV-10 SIGMA
SV-10 ALCYON

Alex Racing

I don't know much about this car. But i do know this car is quite pimp. Just look at the pics. I haven’t found any information that helps me out or anything. But i do know also this isn't a cheap car. ¥41,790. Well in US money that is over $375. So just stay away from this. More of a racer then a drifter.

Alex Racing Barracuda R3
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Old 05-05-2004, 02:32 PM   #2
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Mirco Drifting


There is a whole new area of drifting coming out to the crowds. It is called mirco drifting. You use cars that are around 1/18 scale. Most drifters in this scale use the Hpi mirco cars because they are 4WD. But there are other car companys out there. There are the nicest mirco cars that i know of by x-ray. Oh how they are sexy. Well use real hobby grade mirco stuff not the radioshack cars.

HPI RACING

Go down a little bit and see all the different styles of bodys.

Micro RS4 RTR, Skyline R34 GTR $211

X-ray

They have out two nice cars to drift with. The
High Performance Micro Sedan and the T1M Mini Sedan. Well both are rollers. And also the T1 mini is belt driven and the micro sedan is shaft driven.

Xray M18 1/18 4WD Car Kit $105


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Old 05-05-2004, 02:36 PM   #3
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Nitro drifting

Nitro drifting is alot different then electric drifting. You have to worry about a whole lot more then just then the battery on an electric car. If your new to the hobby. Don't get a nitro car. They are a lot of work to matain. Well any way here are some ideas for cars.

Team Associated

Lets see Team associated has the NTC3. This is roughly the same has the TC3 but only nitro. There are a few virsons of this. One the factory team kit. Two the pull side exhuast kit. And the non-pull rear exhuast kit. You will need all the elec compontes for the two kits. Plust the factory kit you need the motor, body, wheels and tires, and the elec componts.

Factory team $350
Pull side exhaust kit $260
Rear exhaust kit $260

Hpi racing

Hpi racing has the Nitro RS4 3 Type SS for you to chose. It only needs the elec compontes and you are off drifting. Plus there are many body styles to chose from on towerhobbies.

Trans Am body $260

Kyosho

Kyosho has a few racing cars that might be un-able to drift. But they do have the GP Spider chassis. It seems good to drift. Check the link.

GP Spider

Tamiya

Tamiya has many nitro cars. There are the 1/10 scale ones and the 1/8. It all depends on what you like. I believe all the 1/10 verions are off the same frame but don't quote me on that. Check the link for 1/10 and 1/8 scale r/c glow engines.

Tamiya R/C main page

DuraTrax:

DuraTrax has only one car that i know of. The Street Force. It comes with a .18 motor so you can drift easyily. But the bad thing is it is only a kit. So you will need a radio system.

DuraTrax Street Force GP2 w/.18 Prebuilt Red $200

Trinity:

Well lets see here. They have a couple cars. They mostly are for racing. Just like any other nitro car. Well anyway here are the links. They aren't bad cars at all.

Trinity Reflex NT Team Only Touring Car $410
Trinity Nitro G4 Racer Kit $265
Trinity Nitro G4 Pro Kit $380


Yokomo:

The yok boys have one nitro touring car. Those people are cool. First the electric drift kits. Well this was the car before them.

Yokomo 4WD Nitro Touring Car Kit $435

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Old 05-05-2004, 02:43 PM   #4
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Electric things need to make a kit a RTR

Well there are two things. One is the main radio system and secondary is an ESC. We don't like to use MSC in this hobby because they are cheap and makes your car slow. Well here are bunch of ESC's and Radio's that can help you. They are here if you are upgrading the stock equipment or getting a kit.

ESC's

This is some times called the brains of the car. They control all of the functions of you car.

Airtronics F-2000 Speed Control w/Reverse $70
Associated Runner Plus ESC w/Reverse $50
Associated AI Automatic Super Reverse ESC $55
Associated F1 Reverse $57
Associated IPC Sport $60
Associated AI Automatic Pro Reverse ESC $70
Associated F1 Super w/Reverse $75
Associated IPC Super Sport $80
Associated Quantum Sport $80
Associated F1 Pro Reverse $90
Associated Quantum Reverse $90
Associated AI Automatic Bullet Reversible ESC $90
Associated IPC Pro Sport $95
Airtronics F-3000 Speed Control $100
Associated Quantum Super Sport $130
Associated Quantum Pro Sport $140
Associated Quantum Super Reverse $140
Associated IPC SR $145
Associated IPC V7.1 $150
Associated Quantum Pro Reverse $155
Associated Quantum Competition 2 $180
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed Auto-Sport Forward ESC $25
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed Auto-Sport Forward/Reverse ESC $38
Duratrax IntelliSpeed 16T Mild-Modified Reverse ESC $50
Duratrax IntelliSpeed 12T Modified Reverse ESC $65
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Pro Racing Forward ESC $80
Futaba MC230CR ESC w/Reverse 20+T $50
Futaba MC330CR ESC w/Reverse 13+T $70
Futaba MC800C Professional $160
Futaba MC400CR ESC w/Reverse $180
Futaba MC800C V2 Professional ESC $220
Hitec EZX-R 2-Way Speed Control $35
Hitec EZX-R Pro 2-Way Speed Control $47
Hitec HFX-R Speed Control Reverse $59
Novak Explorer II $50
Novak XRS Reversible Sport ESC $50
Novak Fusion Dual Profile $60
Novak Rooster Reversible One-Touch $70
Novak Dually Dual Profile $90
Novak Super Rooster Reversible $120
Novak GT7 $140
Novak GTX Programmable ESC $180

Main radio and recievers

This is what you hold in your hand to steer and give throttle to the car.

Airtronics BL2DR 2-Channel AM/2 94102Z Servos $55
Airtronics M8 3-Channel FM/2 102Z Servos $270
Airtronics MX-3 3-Channel FM/1 94102Z Servo $99
Hitec Lynx Sport 2-Channel AM/2 HS-311 Servos 75MHz $40
Hitec Aggressor 3-Channel S RX No Servos $100
Hitec Aggressor CRX 3-Channel FM Tx w/Spectra $220
Furtaba 2PL 2-Channel AM/1 S3003 Servo $69
Futaba 3PK 3-Channel PCM/No Servos $330
Futaba 3PM 3-Channel FM/2 S3003 Servos $130
Futaba 2PH 2-Channel AM/1 S3003/1 S3010 Servo $65
Jr Racing XR2i 2-Channel Radio (75MHz)$100
Jr Racing XR3i Programmable Racing System $239
Jr Racing R1 $400
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Old 05-05-2004, 02:52 PM   #5
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Old 05-05-2004, 02:54 PM   #6
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

Types of motors:

You are going to need any motor with a lot's of torque. If you can afford it, get a brushless system, they have loads of torque, require little maintenance and have great run times. Many different people use the motors that come stock with most kits. Those are the silver ones.

Also the higher the number of turns the more torque the motor will have. Example would be a 27T will have more torque then say a 9T. So drifters use 27T or around there.


Epic Binary 2 Outlaw Pro Motor $34
Epic Binary 2 Outlaw Stock Motor $30
Epic ROAR Rebuildable Stock Pro Motor $30
Epic ROAR Rebuildable Stock Motor $30
Epic BRCA Rebuildable Stock Pro Motor $30
Kyosho Ion Storm Stock Motor $18
Trinity P2k Copper Head Motor $25
Trinity P2k2 Stock Motor $25
Trinity P2k2 Pro Stock Motor $29
Trinity Green Machine 3 Pro Tuned Motor $30
Trinity Green Machine 3 Motor $25
Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Motor $25
Trinity P2k Copper Head Pro Motor $28
Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro Motor $29
Tower Hobbies Speed Stocker 27T Racing Motor $15
Team Orion Core Stock RS 27T Rebuild Motor $25
Team Orion Core Stock RS 27T Rebuild Dyn Motor $32
Team Orion Rush 27x1 Bearing/Adjustable Motor $22
Team Orion 27x1 Havok Motor $20
Team Orion 27x2 Method Motor $22
Peak Performance Jaguar 27x1 Motor $16
Peak Performance Raven 27x2 Motor $22


Brushless motors will last a longer time then a normal brushed motor. Also it requires less work then a brushed motor. Hardly any maintance is required, after a lot of runs. You get a huge runtime, more torque, and more top end. The only downside is the price.

Novak Super Stock Brushless Motor System $240
Novak Super Sport Brushless System $230

If you want to get more power out of your stock motor check out this link.

http://www.motortuningsecrets.com/

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Old 05-05-2004, 07:38 PM   #7
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

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Old 05-07-2004, 03:58 PM   #8
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Types of tires:

Most drifters don’t use normal tires. They use PVC piping or electric tape. The tape method is the easiest to start off with. PVC you will need more work to get the PVC over the wheels. Also over the past few months. Members havce been using ABS piping. They say if gives you more control and also a more accurte look. It goes on the same way as PVC pipe.

Electric tape:

Just like it says we use electric tape. That is the tape that is black. For the rear tires you should put the tape directly in the center of the tire, and wrap the tire 4 or 5 times. For the front tires put the tape on the outside of the tire, so that at least 1/4 of rubber is still exposed on the inside, wrap the front tires 3 or 4 times. You also want to make sure that when you cut the tape off, the end of the tape is facing the rear of the car so it isn't ripped off when the car starts moving.

PVC tires:

This is going to be more work to get just right but will give an easyier drift. Here is a link that shows what you are going to be doing. I will explain better. When using pvc pipe make sure you but it on all four corners of the car. I had some on ask just on the rear of the car, on a other board.

Click this


Wait for new tutorial for cutting pvc. Should help you out more. Link will be here too.


ABS tires:

ABS is just a softer compound irragation pipe, probably due to the black dye that it has. This is preferred to do just enough grip for good control. ABS is so far mainly found out West, like California.
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Old 05-07-2004, 04:03 PM   #9
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Types of batterys:

There are many different types of batterys you can use. The cheapest and oldest technology is NICD. Then there is the new modern NIMH. Nicd are the cheapest and offer the lowest punch in a batt. While Nimh offers the best punch but the draw back is that they cost more. You should use a batt between 1900Mah and 3300Mah. These are the most common. If you are thinking what do i use. Well i use 2 1900Mah nicd's and one 3000Mah nimh batt. The following links are some cheap nicd's and then what i think are some good Nimh batts.

Nicd batterys:

DuraTrax Piranha 6-Cell 1900mAh Flat Standard NICD $15
Epic 1500mAh NiCd Sport Battery Pack $9
Team Orion V-Maxx Super Duty 2400 E-Maxx Battery (2)$35

Nimh Batterys:

DuraTrax Panasonic 3000UM 6C NiMH Pack Standard
Epic 3000mAh NIMH Sport Battery Pack $19
Epic 1500mAh NiCd Sport Battery Pack $9
Team Orion Rocket Pack Plus 3000 $27
SMC Gold Peak 3300 NiMH Matched Stick Pack 6-Cell $42 (best batterys money can buy)
SMC Gold Peak 3300 NiMH Stick Pack 6-Cell $37 (best battery money could buy)

Bulk batteries:

24 loose, unmatched, Gp3300 cells
Individual cells nicads
Individual cells index
Individual cells/Custom packs

Battery chargers:

There are two types. Timer and peak chargers. Timer chargers are just what it says. You set a timer and Charges the batt for the amount of time. And then the peak charger is the best. It fully charges the batt to the correct number the batt has. Says a batt is rated at 2400Mah. A timer charger might only get the batt up to 2300Mah while a Peak charger will get the batt up to 2400Mah and might go over the the number of Mah of the batt. The timer chargers are the cheapest while the peak can get more expensive.

Associated LRP Pulsar DC Competition Charger $170
DuraTrax Piranha CX-15 AC/DC Fast Charger w/Meter $32
DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger NiCd/NiMH $50
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger $55
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Mini Pulse Charger $65
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Deluxe Pulse Charger $75
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Twin Pulse Charger $75
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Digital Pulse Charger $100
DuraTrax IntelliPeak Ice DC Computerized Charger $139.99
Futaba CR2000 DC Peak Charger $125
Futaba High Performance Charger/Discharger CDR-5000 $450
Hitec CG-335 Multi-Peak Charger $95
Great Planes ElectriFly Triton DC Comp Peak Charger $130
MRC Super Brain 969 Pro Series $99
Novak Millennium Pro DC Charger $135



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Old 05-11-2004, 03:57 PM   #10
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Suspension set-ups:

These set-ups are some what of a basic for you to start off with. Many peoples are different but you should play around with settings that you find more comfortable drifting with.

The following set up is for running Taped tires.

Hard. You want the back of the car to be very stiff so that there is very little suspension movement but not so hard that the car "Skips" when it is pushed hard into a corner.

Now if you want to run PVC pipe. You want your setup to be soft. This is because there is little to no grip with PVC pipe. So you need to make full use of the grip you can get.

Easy way of doing this is by changing out the springs in your car for stiffer or softer springs.

For PVC or ABS, you want your camber to be at 0 degrees(flat). For everything else, 2-4 degrees is preferred.
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Old 05-12-2004, 04:31 PM   #11
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

Bodies:

Yes the part i like. These are the part of the car that every one sees. There are many true drift bodies. Now changing bodies from the stock one doesn't change how your car drifts. Just the look. Also if it is un painted you need to get some paint that is made for lexan bodies. (lexan is what the bodies are vacumed formed of.)

Also if your running any electric touring car. Your body size will be 190mm. This will be perfect for you. Now if your running any Nitro touring car your body size is 200mm. Now the electric guys. If you want to run a 200mm body because you don't like the choices of 190mm bodies you will need to run offset rims to fill in the gaps.

Here is a thread containing a whole bunch of bodies. All types too.

Nissan

Kyosho Skyline GTR Body 200mm $35
R32
R33
Kyosho Skyline 2000 GTR Body $46
HPI Nissan Skyline R34 GTR Body 200mm $20
Tamiya Xanavi NISMO GT-R (R34) Body $24
ER34
Yokomo Drift Nissan S15 Silvia Street Body Set 190mm $40
HPI Nissan Silvia S15 Body 190mm $21
ABC NISSAN SILVIA GT S14 Body 195mm $14
Nissan Silvia S13 $24
HPI Nissan 350Z Nismo GT Race Body 190mm $23
Pro-Line Nissan 350Z Body 190mm $21
Pro-Line Nissan 350Z Body 200mm $21
300zx
180SX
Sil80 (A Sil80 in real life is a 180sx with a S13 front end. Well considering we can't make one you can get a S13 body if they have one and get some rear light decals from a 180sx and put them on the rear. You have an Sil80 now)
Nissan Sileighty $24

Toyota

Yokomo Drift Toyota AE86 Trueno Street Body Set 190mm $40
Mr2 or Sw20
Tamiya 4WD HKS Altezza Body Parts 190mm $30
HPI Lexus IS200/Altezza Body 190mm $20
Tamiya MR-S Racing Body Parts Set 190mm $30
HPI Toyota MR-S GT Body 200mm $21
Kyosho Castrol Supra Body 200mm or 190mm $35
Tamiya Castrol Supra Body Parts 190mm $30
HPI Toyota Supra Body 200mm $23

Mitsubishi

HPI Mitsubishi Lancer Body 200mm $21
Tamiya Lancer EVO VI WRC Body Parts 200mm $30
Tamiya Lancer Evo VII Body Parts 184mm $30

Honda

HPI Honda NSX Body 190mm $18
Tamiya Raybrig NSX Body Parts 190mm $30
HPI Honda NSX Body w/Decals 200mm $17
HPI Honda NSX GT Body 190mm $23
HPI Honda NSX GT Body 200mm $22
Kyosho Mugen NSX 2002 Body Set 200mm $38
HPI Honda S2000 Body w/Decal 190mm $20
Kyosho Honda S-2000 Body Set 200mm $23

Dodge

HPI Dodge Viper GTS-R Body 190mm $22
HPI Dodge Viper GTS-R Body 200mm $21
Parma Viper GTS Coupe Body w/Wing 190mm $23

Mazda

APEX FD3S D1
Yokomo 1/10 Veilside RX7 Body 190mm $22
Yokomo 1/10 Veilside RX7 Body 200mm $22
HPI Mazda RX-7 FD3S Body 200mm $20
HPI Mazda RX-8 Mazdaspeed A Spec Body 190mm $22
HPI Mazda RX-8 Mazdaspeed A Spec Body 200mm $22

Infinity

Protoform G35 Coupe 200mm $21

BMW's

HPI BMW M3 GT Body 190mm $21
HPI BMW M3 GT Body 200mm $20
HPI BMW M Coupe Body 200mm $21
HPI BMW 3 Series Body 190mm $20
HPI BMW 328CI Body 200mm $21

Subaru's

HPI '98 Subaru Impreza Body 200mm $20
HPI Subaru Impreza WRC '01 200mm Body $21
Kyosho Subaru Impreza Body Alpha 190mm $19
ABC SUBARU LEGACY B4 Body 195mm $14


When painting:

Use only paint that is made for lexan bodies.

Bob Dively Liquid Masking Film 4 oz. $5

List of paints:

Pactra Polycarb Paints
Tamiya Polycarb Paints

Helpful guide's:

R/C Car Painting and Airbrushing

Stripping paint:

When you are tired of your old paint job use this stuff to remove the paint. First step is to apply it to the area. Let it soak in and then whip it away. Then just was the body then paint it again. You want to use this stuff. (picture)

citri strip's



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Old 05-17-2004, 10:35 AM   #12
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

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Old 05-22-2004, 08:24 PM   #13
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

Tools that can help you:

Body Tools:

Use these to cut the body form the extra lexan, and also make holes in it for the body mount’s.

Excel 5-1/2" Lexan Scissors Curved $8
Excel 5-1/2" Lexan Scissors Straight $8
Associated Factory Team Body Reamer $20
Excel Light Duty Knife w/Cap Carded $2
(CMP-1) COMPASS CUTTER (no price) (need to find were are being sold at first)

Electical:

Use a soldering iron when you need to assembly battery packs or connect say dean’s plugs to the end of wire.

Hobbico Soldering Iron 30 Watt $5
Hobbico Soldering Iron 60 Watt $6
W.S. Deans Racing Silver Solder 1 oz. $4

Hand Tools:

Many hand tools that are great for things like taking apart your car for a rebuild.

Craftsman 7 pc. Metric Cushion Grip Nut Driver Set
Companion 12 pc. Screwdriver Set
Craftsman 3 pc. Pliers Set, Mini Box-Joint
Craftsman 2 pc. Hex Key Caddy Set, SAE and Metric
Craftsman 7 pc. Hex Key Set, T-Handle Metric

Dremel:

This is one of the best tools for any hobbyist. If you need to remove material from any part on your car or so this is the tool for you. The dremel has many bits and sanding tools for you to pick what is right with you.

Craftsman Rotary Kit, Variable Speed with 40 Accessories
Craftsman Single Speed Rotary Tool
Craftsman 4.8 volt Cordless Rotary Tool with 5 Accessories
Craftsman Rotary Tool Kit, Variable Speed with 100 Accessories and Storage Case
Dremel 275-02 Single-Speed MultiPro Rotary Tool $52
Dremel 395-01 Rotary Tool Variable Speed $60
Dremel 750-02 MiniMITE Cordless Rotary Tool $32Dremel 7700-01 7.2V MultiPro Cordless Kit $48
Dremel 7800-02 MultiPro 9.6V Cordless Kit $70
Dremel 8000-01 10.8V Lithium-Ion Cordless Rotary Tool $100
Dremel MultiPro Kit 2-Speed $37
Dremel 3940-02 MultiPro Kit $73
Dremel 3962-02 MultiPro Variable Speed Kit $85
Dremel 3956-02 MultiPro Variable Speed Super Kit $90
Dremel 3981-01 Digital MultiPro Rotary Tool Kit $100
Dremel 7360 Heavy Duty Flex Shaft Kit w/Handpiece $220


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Old 07-07-2004, 09:18 PM   #14
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

Odd things that you might need to help build and matain your car:

Cyanoacrylate Glues:

You use this to glue on your normal tires to the rim. Also it is used to glue the PVC or ABS onto your rim.

Pacer Zap CA 1 oz. $6.70
Pacer Zap-A-Gap CA+ 1 oz. $6.70
Pro-Line Premium Blend CA 5-10 $8
Pro-Line Premium Blend CA 15-20 $8

For the deep dish look:

Adding that extra flare to your pvc/abs tires.

Great Planes Striping Tape Chrome Silver 1/4" $4


Shoe goo:

You can use this stuff for anything. I use it for my tutorials. Works wonders.

DuraTrax Shoe Goo II 3.7 oz. $4.50

Picture glue:

You can use this too add magazine pictures to the outside or the inside of your body.

XXX Main Racing Lexan Picture Glue $4.30

Thread lock:

You use this to lock any screw into metal. Like your motor mount screws into the motor if you want. This is an important thing on a nitro car.

DuraTrax Pit Tech Threadlocker .2 oz. $3

Lubricants, Drops, grease (etc.) :

Lol he said lubricants. Besides the funny sex joke there are many things that need to be greased on a R/C car.

Trinity Black Death Comm Drops 2 oz. $6.20
Trinity Motor Break-In Drops 1/2 oz. $3.80
Trinity Formula 2000 Comm Drops 1 oz. $5.70
Associated Silicon Differential Grease 1/4 oz $2.40
HPI Heavyweight Grease Gear Diff
Aero-Car Super Speed Gear & Differential Lube (non sheading)
Kyosho Ball Differential Grease IR (bunch of shizzle's)
Kyosho Differential Grease
Trinity 6072 Slippage On-Road Diff Lube $5.70

Shock oil's:

Adjusting the performance of your suspension. Helps to drift.

Trinity 10 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 15 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 20 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 25 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 30 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 35 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 40 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 45 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 50 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 55 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 60 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 70 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 80 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 90 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40
Trinity 100 Weight Silicone Shock Oil $3.40

Servo tape:

Use this to hold down many piece of your car to umm your car. Like the reciver to the chassis. Same with the ESC.

Trinity Servo Tape Narrow $3.20
Trinity Servo Tape Wide $3.70

Electric tape:

Use this to wrap around tires. To help drift.

3M Electrical Tape Vinyl 3/4X300" $2

Motor Spray:
Duratrax Power Shot Electric motor cleaner-$4
Team Orion Electric Motor Spray-$6
Peak Performance Electric and Nitro Cleaner-$6
T.A. Emerald Performance Plus 3 Electric Spray-$5.50
T.A. Emerald Nitro Clean-$6
Trinity Buggy Blast Electric Spray-$6
Trinity Nitro Blast Cleaner-$6
HPI Nitro Car Cleaner-$7
Megatech Megawash Nitro Wash-$8
Team Orion Nitro Speed Clean-$6
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Old 12-20-2004, 04:34 PM   #15
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Re: Welcome to the official thread for drifting!

FAQ:

Q: What is Drifting?

A: Well, the simple explanation would be losing traction on the rear tires, pitching the car sideways around a turn and maintaining control of the car around the corner. But it is much more complicated than that.

Q: Why would you want to do such a thing?

A: Drifting is considered a huge sport in Japan and is now moving around the world to become a world class motor sport. It doesn't just look cool its even more fun doing it!

Q: What is the best car for drifting, what should i be looking for in a car?

A: Something light, stiff and adjustable. Spoolin uses an HPI Pro 3, I use an HPI Pro 2. The Yokomo Drifter should be great I'm sure. Or any 4wd touring car.

Q: Can I use my nitro car for drifting?

A: Yes, but it will be very difficult. Nitro cars are much heavier than electrics, and since there is a clutch involved the power transfer is delayed, whereas an electric motor will give much more instant power to the wheels, you will be going through clutches like there is no tomorrow. Also the higher CG (Centre of Gravity) makes it more difficult to drift and making the car feel "Sluggish" through corners.

Q: What is a good motor for drifting?

A: Any motor with a lot of torque should do the job. If you can afford it, get a brushless system, they have loads of torque, require little maintenance and have great run times. Also any 27T motor will do you just fine.

Q: What kind of tires should I use?

A: Generally, you want the hardest tire you can find along with some super hard inserts. To maintain a little bit more control, you might get a slightly softer tire compound for the front of the car. HPI 33r tires with HPI blue inserts will work well. Take off cs37 tires work well too. Make sure you check out the Yokomo Drift Tyres too! Also try PVC and ABS pipe over the wheels.

Q: I've heard of a lot of people putting tape on their tires for drifting. What kind of tape should I use and where should I place the tape on the tires?

A: If you choose to tape your tires, use electrical tape. Any other kind of tape gets too messy. For the rear tires you should put the tape directly in the center of the tire, and wrap the tire 4 or 5 times. For the front tires put the tape on the outside of the tire, so that at least 1/4 of rubber is still exposed on the inside, wrap the front tires 3 or 4 times. You also want to make sure that when you cut the tape off, the end of the tape is facing the rear of the car so it isn't ripped off when the car starts moving.

Q: Should my suspension be soft or hard?

A: Hard. You want the back of the car to be very stiff so that there is very little suspension movement but not so hard that the car "Skips" when it is pushed hard into a corner. This is for using tape.

Q: What is Camber? Is it true i have to run Camber on my car?

A: Yes negative camber on the front of the car will help the car's ability to hold a good line and give the car more agility. In the front of the car, you want to run around -4 degrees of camber. Looking at your car from the front, the tires will look like this /-----\ It looks kinda ridiculous, but for RC drifting and even on the real drifters it really works. The rear of the car should be set between 0 and -1 degrees of camber, since you don't want very much traction.

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This FAQ was written by "ToxicSoup"

Edited slightly by me.
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