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Old 06-11-2012, 02:41 PM   #1
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Question CV Joint Replacement

Hey, everyone.

Driver of a Saturn SL1 (early 2000's) here. This bit of work will essentially be my introduction into home automotive repair. .

Anyways, I'd like to thank all of you for your help in advance. Tried looking this issue up on YouTube, but couldn't find anything specific to the Saturn SL1.

My problem concerns the driver-side CV joint (I think, at least). At speeds above 50-55mph the car will vibrate and emit a low-frequency loud hum; and upon completion of a u-turn taken at low speeds, a component within the driverside axle is heard to loudly "snap," jerking the wheel 1/8" or so. My first question is whether there are other symptoms I could identify that would indicate a CV joint issue. If so, what are they?

Secondly, if the problem DOES lie with the CV joint, what equipment would I need to do this repair?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:04 PM   #2
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Re: CV Joint Replacement

Your description about the "hum" noise leads be to believe you have a hub bearing noise, you may also have a cv joint noisy. Its cheaper to just get a reman axle shaft than a individual joint. I'm not sure if the hub bearing on yours is pressed in or bolted in, I think it's pressed in.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:14 AM   #3
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Re: CV Joint Replacement

The hub bearing is pressed into the knuckle. You have to remove the knuckle from the car to get it out though. Unless you own a press I think you will have to take the knuckle to a machine shop to have them press the old bearing out (which damages the bearing) and pressing in a new one. You could get the new bearing from the machine shop, or have the new one with you. There is a "C" clip that has to be removed before the bearing can be pressed out. I have a 96 Saturn "S" series, and assuming your Saturn is set up the same way, removing the knuckle from the car isnt harder than on any other front wheel drive car. You need a large socket and breaker bar to remove the hub nut. It may require a deep socket, and a half inch drive type, not a 3/8" drive kind. I also prefer the 6 point sockets, not 12 point sockets for this.
Then you have to remove the brake caliper - and hang it from a bent coathangar or something, so the weight isnt pulling the hose apart from the metal ferrule. You have to undo the ball joint and the connection to the strut, and the ABS brake connector (assuming you have ABS brakes). You also have to remove the outer tie rod connection.
Good Luck.

And the SL1 and SL2 are pretty much the same as far as suspension parts go.
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