Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi 2 in one 1/24

[Umihito]

Originally Posted by nugundam93

what kind of paints again did you use? it might be a delayed reaction between the color layer

Hi nugundam93, I used on that part of the door,
(*All the layers were air-brushed)
1, Tamiya super surfacer and dried for 1 day then sanded
2, Tamiya fine surfacer and dried for 1 day then sanded
3, Gaianotes White Surfacer Evo (thinned by Tamiya lacquer thinner) and dried for 1 day then sanded
4, Gaianotes EX White (thinned by Tamiya lacquer thinner) and dried for 1 day
5, Tamiya Spray Italian Red + Bright Red mix, about 4 thin layers and dried for 1 day
6, Gaianotes EX Clear (thinned by Tamiya lacquer thinner) about 4 thin layers and dried for 4-5 day then sanded with #1500 Tamiya sand paper
7, Gaianotes EX Clear again

Finally after 4-5 days, I polished with Soft 99 compound, Tamiya course compound, Tamiya fine compound then finishing compound.

All the paints were lacquer based, and basically this problem wouldn't happen. The clacks seem to be from deep, from surfacer.

So far, I would try the clear coat again, then sand and polish... if failed again, I would... try urethane clear, maybe (but after trying on other sample, seeing the deference of luster between the other body parts.

[nugundam93]

that's definitely unusual and we can't blame the paint since they're of all the same type and it looks like you gave it enough driving time. hope the urethane paint manages to solve that

[stevenoble]

The problem you're having with the cracks is because you applied far too many different layers of primer/surfacer and you didn't allow enough drying time in between the different layers. By my count you put 4 layers of white primer/undercoat onto the body before you applied the red, and they were all different products. For that amount of layers I would have left a minimum of 1 week drying time, however to be bluntly honest it's just too much primer/undercoat. 2 to 3 light coats of Tamiya white primer would have been adequate, with a minimum 1 week to dry. The problem is when you applied your colour coats and ultimately your clear, the thick layer of primer wasn't properly dry, so once covered it then continued to dry causing shrinkage and the top coats have cracked as a consequence. Also sanding the clear with 1500 paper and applying more clear has made things worse. 1500 is too rough and has inflicted fine scratches into the clear coat. Once more clear was applied over the top it has emphasised the scratches. Sadly urethane will probably not fix the problem. Usually a strip and repaint is the only option as the cracks will just keep coming up through the layers every time...

[Umihito]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

The problem you're having with the cracks is because you applied far too many different layers of primer/surfacer and you didn't allow enough drying time in between the different layers. By my count you put 4 layers of white primer/undercoat onto the body before you applied the red, and they were all different products. For that amount of layers I would have left a minimum of 1 week drying time, however to be bluntly honest it's just too much primer/undercoat. 2 to 3 light coats of Tamiya white primer would have been adequate, with a minimum 1 week to dry. The problem is when you applied your colour coats and ultimately your clear, the thick layer of primer wasn't properly dry, so once covered it then continued to dry causing shrinkage and the top coats have cracked as a consequence. Also sanding the clear with 1500 paper and applying more clear has made things worse. 1500 is too rough and has inflicted fine scratches into the clear coat. Once more clear was applied over the top it has emphasised the scratches. Sadly urethane will probably not fix the problem. Usually a strip and repaint is the only option as the cracks will just keep coming up through the layers every time...

Thanks for your reply! As you advised me, yes, now I can see the biggest problem was the "too short drying time" and "too many layers". This time I made many mods and put many putty, so I should prime and sand many times, but I think I could use white primer from the first layer, as you pointed out. So far other body parts rather than the left door seem to be safe maybe because I allowed about one week drying time between every layer.

FYI, "#1500 (or #2000) sanding after clear coat then clear top coat" method is being used by many modelers in Japan and shows good results. But this time, because of my haste; I struggled to match the color up with the left door, it went worse, I believe. The method is now becoming very popular. (If enough drying times were allowed, it works )

I am recovering the left door now ant it's ongoing, so I'll report the results soon, Thank you so much again!!!

[Umihito]

I'll post a very short one, to show I am still not knocked out.


Fixing the arrangement of the hole.


It's not perfect, but almost!! Keep on going, or I can't finish this project! I took too much time already.


Masking of the shade on front window. Thick double sided tape and 0.2mm plastic paper.
I decided to use the front window from Revell's box. It was not too bad, and I thought it'd be too tricky to attach the thin, 0.2mm window I made. For now, I want to finalize this project and see the completed GTO!


The shade's color was, clear blue 60% + clear red 40%. Then clear coated. After this, I'll polish.


But the rear window was replaced to 0.2mm plastic transparent board. I want to see the dashboard clearly through.


Temporally the body and the chassis were docked, to keep my motivation up...
(I'll treat the black color beside the rear window).

Thanks for watching!!

[stevenoble]

No problem, glad I could help. I do agree that many model makers do sand with 1500 or 2000 the clear coat and then apply more clear coat over the top and this can create an excellent finish. However whilst I do actually do that myself I feel it's not always necessary. If I'm using clear over the top of my colour coats I rarely if ever sand the clear layer. The only exception is if I have some defects or dirt in the clear, I will always sand them out to perfect the finish. Sometimes though if I have enough clear on the surface I just use Micromesh 8000 and 12000 cloths to rub out the dirt/defects and then use rubbing compound to polish back the shine, so still no need to re-clear. If I'm not using any clear and laying down gloss colour coats then I do always give a light sand between coats, just enough to provide a grippy surface for the next colour coat to adhere well enough.
Lately I've been using 2K urethane clear and find that if applied correctly, with the correct thinning, no sanding is needed of the clear and often no polishing is needed either. It really is fantastic stuff..!!
Your Ferrari looks great, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and I hope you can solve your problems

[Umihito]

Hi all, from sunny and windy Sydney.

I'll post progress of 5 days (I wish I could spend all my time making my GTO, though maybe 1-2 hours a day).
I'm sure I'm approaching to the goal (except the left door).


Masked and sprayed the window rims.


0.3mm Plastic paper was adhered to the side of rear window. It could be a bit thinner, but I thought thinner materials would trace the rough surface. This was cool enough for me.


Front hood stay. Mainly just made from 0.5mm nickel silver and plastic bar to be adhered to the body, but to show as if it was dumper, I just added the brass tube. ....I forgot to take photo of rear one (rear one was simple, as the real one was).


Finally the body and chassis were docked. Still there were lots of adjustment for the hinges of front and rear hoods, height of the interior tub.... and so on.


I normally trim the edges of the back of the wheels. I don't know why car model manufactures make me do this messy job.


Then simply masked the wheel centres. I could take off the plating, but after painting the metal-look paints, it's all the same, we can't touch so much. I took an easier way.


Sprayed Flat Aluminum (Tamiya enamel XF-16) and the air valves were attached. I bought these valves about 10 years ago.


Tyres were attached. Now I can see this is a car, indeed. Luckily, it seems like I don't need to adjust the height again.


I need to hurry up instead of watching, but I can't help smiling watching this "almost finished" appearance.


It was lucky I didn't need too much time to adjust and fit the head light units.


Left door is now under repair, but just some small jobs to do!!
And I'll be making wipers, fitting emblems, mirrors and show case as well very soon.

I hope I could tell "I finished!!" on the next post.

Have a happy Monday...

[nugundam93]

so close now...

[dada man]

amazing build thus far!

you marks in the paint work look like the 1500 grit was too course to flat with. next time use 2000 and up.
this is my process:

I also use 2k clear.
after its dry 2000 grit.
micro mesh till 12000
course compound with buffing machine
intermediate compound with buffing machine
final compound with buffing machine( megauirs scratch x)
tamiya final polish by hand
micro mesh polish
and tamiya wax

and here are my results
this is before and after


and a final



with some of the other parts i had those lines appeared when I polished but just used micro mesh again and it got it out.

another thing. tamiya paints etc are softer paints than car paints.

hope it helps and keep up the great work

[MockTurtle]

Originally Posted by dada man

course compound with buffing machine
intermediate compound with buffing machine
final compound with buffing machine( megauirs scratch x)

howsit bru.
what is this 'buffing machine' you speak of?
oh... nice to see someone from cape town on here :-)

[dada man]

its a dremel with a wool buff



great to meet another Cape Townian

[MockTurtle]

isn't dremel too fast? where do u get the mini pom poms?

edit: was gonna start on my 288 GTO.. then saw this thread. don't think am gonna start that kit. ever.
like your work Umihito.

[dada man]

i just use it on the slowest speed. It works for me. Although i would want it a bit slower but so far the results have been good. btw. i tried sending you a pm but having probs. drop me one when you have time

[Umihito]

Thank you dada man and MockTurtle!

I am sure I'll try 2K urethane clear very soon, as stevenoble recommended too (and the way of paint and polish as well). This forum is very good, we can share the way of making good ones. I believe lots of modelers are anxious about the body painting of cars. Still, I need lots more tries and errors. I'll make "easy models" after this "too complicated GTO" to brush up my painting and polishing skills.

BTW, dada man, what model are you making on this picture? I am interested in those sharp moldings (of course in your splendid paint work too). This must be a good kit (just because of your work?). I wanna try!

[dada man]

This is a 1/18 kyosho bmw im busy with.

I made the new bumpers and side skirts for this project. It was a standard 135 but this is what it must look like


some more pics of it

before paint