Opel (Vauxall) Kadett V8 GTR 1:10 scratch build

[Midnight Creep]

Hi,


Small update this time.


After removing al the sections from the inside of the body the whole thing was quit flexible.
I was already expecting that because the body thickness is max 1 mm or less due to the sanding in between and after.


This is the point were Scratchbuilt was worried about.


The make the body less flexible i decided to coat the inside of the body with a thin layer of fibreglass.
The fiberglass i'm using has a weight of 80gr/m2 and has a thickness of 0,12 mm.


This means that the overall thickness of the body mostly remains at around 1 mm.


To prepare the body i taped the whole outside from it with paper masking tape to prevent that the polyester resin will run through small gaps or alond the edge of the body.





After that i used small pieces of fiberglass to coat the inside.










After everything was dry i trimmed all the shapes from the windows alsmost to the correct dimensions.








And seen from the inside:




The stiffnes of the body increased so much that i'm happy with the result.


That's it for today .

[sky1911]

Simply wow. You are insane, but the result is jaw dropping. I like the way you do things, this is scratchbuilding 101 done to perfection. Seeing the sections around the doors on the inside in the last shot, will the doors be openable? But then again, seeing this is 1/10 scale - it's not going to be an RC car is it?

[Midnight Creep]

Hello Sky,


Thx for your reply.


The door will be openable, they will get the same layout as the original ones.
On the second last picture u see an horizontal line between the front and rear arch,
This will be the cutline were the Chevrolet chassis will start,
The height of the chassis beam will be 20 mm at that point (on my model) so u can reckon that the original doors are pretty downsized to fit again.


And, NO, this is not an RC build.

[puffyrs]

Well done looking good

[Midnight Creep]

Hello everyone,


This will be the last update about previous works on this build.
After this it will go a bit slower.


It's time to smoothen the outside of the body.
For that i'm using a two component fine polystyrene putty, the same stuff u would be using to fix a dent in your car.


The whole body was covered with a thin layer of putty.







I gave it two days to dry so i was absolutely sure it was hard.


I sanded the body with 120 grid sandingpaper.








These pictures were taken after just one time sanding, there were still some spots that needed a bit more putty.
So same process again and wait for two days.


That is were the build is at this moment.
It is sanded and i'm now busy with building the boot of the car, more pictures from that next time.

[Midnight Creep]

Hello,


before i start this update I want to wish all of you a happy new year and a lot scalemodelling.


First I want to show what i did after the previous update.


The rear of the model was build with an angle of 90 degrees up but the real one is tilted outside (or inside, depends how u see it) so I cut of the existing rear in a small angle and replaced it with a new piece of styrene.









After that I drew a the panellines en cutting lines onto the body.










Next thing was opening up the rear wheel arches to almost the correct line with a dremel.






I used a piece of sandingpaper wrapped around a can of thinner to smoothen the edge of that.






The body part behind the wheel arches was also removed , this is an opening for cooling and earodynamics.


In the next step I cut out the boot of the car including the small strip between the boot and the window because it was too weak.


I used styrene strips and sheet to build the inside of the boot.
I have no drawings of the boot, only some pictures so a lot of measurements were requiered to make it all fit.












For so far the body works.


Next chapter is about the chassis of the car, better said the C4 chassis from the Corvette.


For that I made a drawing with an CAD programme which I could use to create this complex chassis.


The real chassis exists out of bended metal plates which will create an tube when welded together.
The shape of the chassis changes from the front to the back that's why it is challenging to make it out of styrene.



This is the drawing I made:






Some parts could be prefabbed from the drawing but some angled and round parts had to be made on the model.








After the second part was also glued together I made the part which will be the connection to the rear part of the chassis.






I made a new drawing of the rear section according to the original C4 drawing because i forgot the weld strips in my CAD drawing.




This piece exists of a front and a backplate, welded together to become a sort of box.


These are the 2 left and 2 right parts cut out of styrene:




With small 6mm wide strips I made the edge of the boxes:






When put together it looks like this:




But before glueing them together i made all the necessary holes:




The inside of the box behind these holes made black with a pencil.




Then glued together.
Some reinforcements were made on the fixation hole on the outer edge , the real chassis has it too.




Now it was time to put the front and rear section together, there is a gap between the two pieces from 13-14mm which is also part of the chassis but making sure everything
would line up was essentional.
I used some weights from tropy prizes to align the parts and fill the gap first with some pieces of styrene.






Seen from the top of the chassis.




Now I could glue all the parts in place to close everyting up.






And these are the two almost finished chassis bars, still some work on it but the rough idea is done.




Here's one of the chassis bars holded inside the body:




The gap on the front of the car:




And on the rear:






And the last picture from this update is from the outside rear wheel arch:




Thx for watching, up to the next update.


Grtz Peter

[Midnight Creep]

Time for my next update continueing were i left ....


The chassis parts are now smoothend with putty, the same 2K i used for the body.


To connect both chassisparts i had to make 2 crossmembers show below.


This is the rear crossmember:







And the front crossmember, not fully completed yet on this picture.






I also glued small strips to the top and bottom of the chassis bars, these are the areas where the metal parts are welded together.








I copied most of the holes from the original chassis onto mine, i dont know if they will be visible.


Now it was time to glue the crossmembers in place and the section in between the two rear uprights.






at the front of the chassis two front stiffners were added like the original car.




On the rear parts of the chassis i also added some 2K putty to make it angled at some points.




To fit the body on top of the chassis i had to remove a 1,5-2 cm strip from the bottom of the body, picture below shows before and after:




And now test fit the body onto the chassis:

















The shape and size from the chassis fits the body perfect , i'm happy with it.


I also started working on the engine.
It is a V8 , and for that i made first simple basic blocks from 0,75mm thick styrene.


On the outside are the cylinder heads and in the middle the crank case (or cylinder block, don't know whats the usual name in english)




Next i made the front and rear of the engine which will be the connection to the clutchhousing on the rear and the housing of the cam chains at the front.






In the middle of the crankcase there is a section which is (i guess) originally used for the fuel injection system, because this car has carburettors it is closed with a metal plate.




I started detailling the crankcase on the outside...














The last part i made is the sump, in this case it is a dry sump, so the hight of it is much less as the original unit.








Thts it for this time.


I will continue with the suspension points on the chassis and the floorpan and also further detailing of the engine.

[nugundam93]

what an awesome week with great content from you, sb and capri. great stuff all around

[puffyrs]

Great work

[michel1973]

very nice, great work

[Borjacho]

What to say!! Only enjoining with every of your steps!!

[Capri-Schorsch]

I love that. I really love that a lot.
How did I miss that thread?

Great work and a great technic to create a car.
It is a special car you are building here. But your skills are great.
Wow!

[Midnight Creep]

Hi everyone,


Time to give an update about the progress on my model.


I've been busy creating the floor, like the chassis this is also from the corvette C4.


Like most car floors it is made from thin plate steel strenghtened by profiles pressed into the plate.


Below; some pictures of an original floor.




Next picture is from the bottom of a cutout floor:






First i made a 1:10 scale drawing of the floor from all the pictures i have:




With the drawing as a reference i first made the flat part of the floor.
Next picture is taken from the bottom against a light source so u can see the differences in floor thickness.




Next pictures shows the floor from the top including the rear straight section from the driveshaft tunnel.






This flat floor and rear end driveshaft tunnel were quite easy to made, the front part is more difficult.


The only part which is straight is the top, both sides have roundings and or strange angled parts.


To make this part i used the same technique as i used for the body.


First i cut the the flat top part from 0,7mm thick syrene:




Then i made a temporary construction to create the height of the part:




And on the bottom of that i glued a temporary bottom part, also from 0,7mm styrene.







With small strips and pieces of 0,5 mm styrene i created the first layer from the shell.








Above is the left side of the tunnel, the right side didn't have one straight piece so i only used small strips for that side, unfortunately i forgot to make a picture of that.


To make the shell firm (strong) i added on both sides a second layer of strips or small pieces styrene.


After the glue was hardened i used putty to smoothen all the rough edges.






A picture from the inside:




The temporary parts could now be removed:




And this is how it looks from the inside:




To straighten out the front and rear part from the tunnel i glued a temporary strip on top of them.




To smoothen the inside of the front part i used 2K putty for the rough parts and 1K putty (darker) for the smaller inperfections.


Not sanded yet on this picture and probably not the last time i will use putty on it.




The connection between front an rear is also smoothend and sanded but not finished.


The tunnel is now ready to connect to the flat floor.
The rear part of the tunnel could easily be glued but the front section had a small 1mm gap on both sides.


I used baking flower and super glue to fill and glue the parts.


For that i used paper tape on the bottom preventing the flower from falling through.




The flower and glue:




I filled the gap with flower an used a half clothspin to push it in.




With a small brush i removed the excess of the flower




And now soak the flower with the glue, in a few seconds it will get rock hard.





The parts i'm now busy with are the foot plates, the left one is ready, the right one and an angled piece on top of the tunnel are the next parts to be made.






Thats it for now, thanks for all your previous replies.

[sky1911]

This is just incredible. Seeing the chassis parts higher up on the page it feels like they are the exact same pieces of sheet metal pressed into form on a real car only made from styrene. I'm just waiting for the simulated spot welded connections .

I. Love. It.
Absolutely fantastic!

[AAlmeida]

You kidding, right? Insane skills... looking forward to more posts