david-b's 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T Motor Build

[david-b]

I'm renting a hoist so I want to keep it as short of time as possible. And since the crank pulley aint coming off, it may be sooner than later. I still have to cut out the old strut tower and get that done. Plus going to wash out the bay before the new one goes in.

As far the damage to the stocker, looks like cylinder 3 was causing the low compression. When turning the motor by hand, oil/water (mixed) is coming up into the combustion chamber. Pretty bad too. There also seems to be pretty significant play at the crank which makes me believe a bearing or 2 are gone. It doesn't make the noise anymore though when I crank by hand so who knows.

I'm headed there right now to get some work done. Pics later.

[david-b]

[david-b]

Update from yesterday...
Got pretty much everything except the crank pulley and sprocket from the old block. That thing is ready to get pulled. I'm think I may lower the car, and then drop the motor out through the bottom.

-All fuel lines in the bay are now SS with fittings
-SFMU installed
-Getting new alternator before it goes in
-Repainting all coolant lines
-Grinded down thermo housing to fit manifold

I just have to retap an exhaust hole (stud broke) and the manifold will be on along with the turbo.

Should start cutting out the strut tower sometime this week and get that going.

And need to finish up wiring megasquirt soon.

Not sure on when the new one is going in yet. I'm thinking 10/17 is looking good if not sooner

[vanilla gorilla]

Good job so far bo. I have dropped FWD motors out the bottom before and its pie. Just might want to have someone guiding the motor while you lower the jack.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by vanilla gorilla

Good job so far bo. I have dropped FWD motors out the bottom before and its pie. Just might want to have someone guiding the motor while you lower the jack.

Thanks.
Ya I wasn't going to do it myself. I have to take off the flex-part of the exhaust since it stops right under the motor. Don't want to damage that shit. Should also take off the bumper and the FMIC then so I don't damage those. But it seems like this is how it's going to come out.

[david-b]

Dropped the block today.


Burned out clutch. This thing is only 2 or 3 years old. Can't see how bad it is since it's modular, but the fins on the pressure plate are abused badly


Cleaning up after the pull


Checking out the clutch fork and cleaning some more.

[vanilla gorilla]

What kind of clutch was that? And what does it mean by "modular"?

[SilvrEclipse]

Modular clutches are a complete clutch: flywheel, disc, and pressure plate all rivet together. This clutch then bolts to a flex plate which has the teeth for the starter. Thats why he said he cant take it apart because is all riveted together. You can drill them out and open it up if he really wants to.

[david-b]

I don't remember what brand it was. It's an aftermarket clutch I got when I did the tranny, but holding power was just a little more over stock (wasn't thinking ahead for the turbo).

But Silvr is right, modular is one piece. I really don't care enough to drill out the rivet. You can see the fins on the plate are bad though. They're actually starting to bend in pretty badly.

Didn't work on it last night.

[vanilla gorilla]

Never seen a modular clutch before....learned something today.

[SilvrEclipse]

Dave the fingers on the plate should not be bent, no matter how much wear is on the clutch.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

Dave the fingers on the plate should not be bent, no matter how much wear is on the clutch.

They're more pushed in than bent.

[david-b]

Worked 16 hours yesterday so didn't get to the garage. I was hoping tonight I'll get there but may be a repeat of yesterday again. I've got parts coming in today and tomorrow so I should be able to make some more progress for the next time I get there.

I found a hoist on Craigslist too that I may just buy. It's only $15 more than renting one and pretty local.

[david-b]

Put some good amount of work into the car the last couple days. Worked 10-4 yesterday and like 9-2 today. Not bad.

Cut out the rusted strut tower yesterday and bought some 22ga sheet metal. The rusted part basically fell right off of the car. I think my parents have some pics of the hole I made but I don't here at my place. I took the metal and did some basic bends with it, tacked into place, and then used a torch to shape the rest of it. I then welded it the rest of the way. Apparently, 22ga is too thin for even the lightest setting on my welder. I kept burning holes in the metal that I had to keep patching up. Plus the paint stuff inside the wheel well kept catching fire while I was working on it. Took 2 days to get nearly what I wanted. I have to prime, sand, prime, sand and then paint it up good. So keep in mine this isnt the best looking right now. However, the metal took shape really well and is solid in there (which is really all that matters)




Made mounts for the FMIC so it'll be level for this time around. Not installed yet, but is ready to go. Going to be running the same one I was before until I max out its efficiency. Pic of some misc parts.



Got the upper IM installed along with the IM heat spacer. Should help keep IATs down a little I'm hoping. Oil pickup, oil pan, and crank scrapper are all installed also. And lastly, all the oil lines for the turbo are ran. -10an return and -4an feed still. Purchased new oil pressure sender from GlowShift since I ruined the old one and have all that installed on the back of the block. EGR system entirely installed now also.

Back shot of the motor. Little dark.





Lastly, with the slimline fans, I had ghetto-rigged them to the front of my radiator so they really didn't stay up there too well. They never fell off or out or anything, just tilted funny sometimes and I'm sure wasn't doing the best job they could be. So I bought some metal brackets with the holes in them every # of inches and cut that. I attached it where the bolts for the headlight (bottom) go and used longer bolts and then buts behind the brace. Actually works out extrememly well. The fans will then be mounted to the brace via their brackets and probably some zip ties in front of the radiator (push style instead of pull). I can also then hide the wires for them inside the front radiator support and basically makes those disappear. When the radiator is in place, it sits totally flush with the brace/fans. The I'll just add some rubber pieces behind the braces so they don't vibrate on the radiator. Don't have close ups of everything yet until it's done, but I think it's turning out extrememly well.




And last but not least I ended up cracking up my buddies car that I've been borrowing for a week. Had the right-away to turn left and lady hit me.

[vanilla gorilla]

Looking good man. Make sure you treat that bare metal with some self-etching primer.