Head Service - Page 7

SilvrEclipse · #91 06-12-2009, 06:34 PM

I would just go with ARP studs. Yea they are $100 but you wont ever have to buy more. Have you done a compression test yet?

torlok2002 · #92 06-15-2009, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

I would just go with ARP studs. Yea they are $100 but you wont ever have to buy more. Have you done a compression test yet?

I would hope I dont have to take the head off AGAIN after this ;-)

torlok2002 · #93 07-09-2009, 09:26 AM

Update:

If anyone can see any evidence that it is the rings please let me know so I have not wasted a ton more time. :-)
http://perfected-insanity.blogspot.c...ead-again.html

torlok2002 · #94 07-13-2009, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by torlok2002

Update:

If anyone can see any evidence that it is the rings please let me know so I have not wasted a ton more time. :-)
http://perfected-insanity.blogspot.c...ead-again.html

bump?

SilvrEclipse · #95 07-13-2009, 10:44 AM

You really should have done a leak down test before you pulled the head. That would have told you if it was the valves or the rings. Im thinkin it the rings since it was burning oil. Make sure to hone out that cylinder when you replace the rings.

torlok2002 · #96 07-13-2009, 03:38 PM

Out of curiosity, how would the leak test proved it was the rings? Doesn't it just fit in the spark plug hole, which would test the compression for both the valves and rings at the same time??

The head was just rebuilt by a professional shop(which unless they screwed up, I'm much more apt to believe I messed up...), and there certainly is some oil in there... so I'll do the rings and hone. Earlier in this thread I had some issues with one of the rings, so I should've checked better before throwing everything back together (I was in a bit of a rush to get the car out, but have time again now). Eh, that's how life goes.

SilvrEclipse · #97 07-13-2009, 04:37 PM

A leak down test pressurizes the cylinder and where ever you have a 'leak' will leak this air out. If its the rings you can listen at the oil cap or dipstick and hear air coming out. If its the valves you will hear air in the intake or exhaust.

torlok2002 · #98 07-22-2009, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

A leak down test pressurizes the cylinder and where ever you have a 'leak' will leak this air out. If its the rings you can listen at the oil cap or dipstick and hear air coming out. If its the valves you will hear air in the intake or exhaust.

Justa question: Is there a special tool for this? Or is this something you would have done at a shop?

As an update. I pulled the piston, was much more careful when gapping the rings and installing again. Connecting rod is back on crank, oil pan installed (including fixing the bolt i accidentally broke off for it), and head and cams are back in. After this it should just be the timing then exhaust and all the hoses and wiring.

torlok2002 · #99 07-25-2009, 06:21 PM

OK, well everything is finally back together and I seem t have an issue now.

First let me give you a little background. I have been having issues with the starter for going on a year now. It would cut out when I was trying to turn it over. Normally I could pull the key out, and try again and on the 2nd or 3rd time it would normally turn over enough to get it to start. So after I got everything back together (just the head was pulled to fix the rings on the one piston) I tried starting it up and it was still doing the starter issue. So I went ahead and shelled out the cash for a new one. An easy install, and didnt have to take anything back off. so now the engine turns over fine, perhaps a bit slow, but it never seems like it's getting fuel to ignite. It never even stutters or acts like it's trying to start, just keeps cranking until the battery gives out.

The other strange thing is that when i put the key into 'on' there is a seemingly randomly timed clicking coming from all four injectors. I can feel this as well if I put my finger on top of the injector. I'm guessing this has to be an electrical issue of some sort? EDIT: Also i can hear the fuel pump (or what i can only assume to be the fuel pump whirring when this ticking is happening. It's coming from the fuel tank. )

Also I'm not sure if this was just from a low battery or what, but the tach goes all the way around to the pin that holds it at rest occasionally.

Any help will be much much appreciated. I'm a bit giddy to get this on the road.

SilvrEclipse · #**100** 07-25-2009, 08:46 PM

Yes you would need a special adapter to do a leak down test, but im sure you could have picked one up at a parts store.

Have you check out the wiring on the injectors? It deffinately sounds like an electrical issue. Unfortunaltely these are the hardest problems to track down.

torlok2002 · #**101** 07-25-2009, 09:03 PM

Yeah I've checked the wiring on the injectors. Funny thing is when I pulled the head I never took them off the intake manifold.

As an update: It now will not turn over at all. When I try to turn it over there are a lot of rapid fire clicks and all lights/radio flicker while this is happening. It has been on a battery charger since this afternoon.

SilvrEclipse · #**102** 07-25-2009, 09:45 PM

Check your battery connections

torlok2002 · #**103** 07-25-2009, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

Check your battery connections

They are good.

Apparently the injectors only make the clicking sound when the tach goes either up to 4k or above. Which doesn't always occur for some reason. Other times one of the relays above the brake reservoir clicks about every 1/2 to 3/4 seconds until I turn it back to accessory. Other times the tach seems to jump around from 0 to around 4k.

I've never paid attention before, but what i thought was the fuel pump is pretty loud (a whirring sound. I can hear it towards the rear of the car), and if it were this loud before I think I would of noticed. Could something be wrong there? I cant think of anything that could of gone wrong but could I of installed the fuel line to the fuel rail wrong? There's two bolts and that about it. Not sure what could go wrong...

torlok2002 · #**104** 07-30-2009, 09:45 AM

Well, Any ideas anyone? I'm stumped... I really do not know where to go from here. Maybe get a code scanner?

I charged the battery very well and still get nothing.

torlok2002 · #**105** 07-31-2009, 09:20 AM

Well, did a little more (albeit slow)troubleshooting last night (gimped hands and all). I think I have an idea of what could be causing this.

I started pulling stuff off to see what was not working. Pulled fuel line to make sure I was getting fuel pressure - OK. I pulled the starter off (remember this is a brand new one) and had someone start to make sure it was working - OK. triple checked all electrical connectors to make sure they were properly seated and nothing looked damaged - OK. Checked all fuses. I did notice that the cooling fan one was burned out, but other than that - OK.

I put everything back together, and it then started turning over. Great, but still no ignition. I pulled the spark plugs and could smell gas on them, so I'm assuming the injectors are working.

How can I test to make sure I'm getting spark? I looked through the chilton manual and it did not mention. On my bikes I've been able to pull the plug out, hookup to the ignition wire and hit the starter to see the spark. (although I've gotten a few good shocks from this... don't touch any metal while doing this.) When I pull them out of the car and try I don't see any spark at all. Will this not work or is this my issue right here.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD