Turbo ecu

[Cavalier9696]

So getting the WG tube would fix that problem? That line is the oils feed line ruuning to the back of the block. Ya I ajusted the BOV but I couldn't tell if it helped cause it never would go off. IM just going to mess with it once I get all this other stuff done. First I got to file down this bolt head so I can get it off to rotate the turbo.

[david-b]

Why would you drive it without the WG tube? Idling is ok with it off, but it sounds like your initial test drive (15 gallons worth of oil) was near cross country. Don't drive it until everything is installed and working properly.

I'm talking this. What is this line going to/from and why?

[SilvrEclipse]

Wow ok those vac lines are a mess. Your problem with your bov not working properly is because you have it tapped into the compressor housing. This is wrong. Heres how to run the lines. Run the wastegate from the compressor housing. THATS IT. Run the bov and AFPR from the intake manifold. The bov releases when it sees vacuum. There is no vac coming from the compressor housing. Also why are you running an AFPR anyways. You dont need it but you can use it, better have removed the stock FPR though. Are you running the FMU unit as well?

I see no fans either thats going to cause problems later on.

[SilvrEclipse]

Also is that the oil feed line that runs towards the radiator?

[Cavalier9696]

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

Also is that the oil feed line that runs towards the radiator?

Ya thats the feed line. I finnaly got to turbo rotated and bolted tight. Now that line facing the radiator in facing up. The compressor housing is the nimple in the turbo right?

[david-b]

Originally Posted by Cavalier9696

Ya thats the feed line. I finnaly got to turbo rotated and bolted tight. Now that line facing the radiator in facing up. The compressor housing is the nimple in the turbo right?

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

The hole facing the radiator is the oil drain. This needs to be connected to the oil pan. The fitting straight accross from that is the feed line. The rest are water lines that should be capped off. Loosen the bolts as much as possible and tap the turbo out of the housing some. As it starts to separate you will be able to take the rest of the bolts out. Just be careful not to damage the wheels on the turbo when you take it apart and put it back together. Make sure there is no more oil leaking before you drive the car again

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

From the beginning of this I knew it was not going to end well. It just seemed like you needed to do more research before tackling such a project. Dave sent me the pics of your car and you did infact have the oil feed line on the oil drain and the oil drain line connected to one of the water feed lines. Im sure the car was pouring out oil so you shouldnt have driven it like that. Fortunately you did have an oil pressure gauge and thats what saved your motor from running out of oil. Fix the problem like dave said and it should be fine.

Originally Posted by david-b

Ok ya you have the feed line on the drain. When you're able to rotate the center section, you want to rotate (or "clock") it 90* TOWARD the front of the car. This will put your current oil feed facing downward. Take that off, move up to the top. The oil drain line then goes where the feed was... on the bottom. Again, you want it straight up/down. The oil goes into the turbo, lubricates it, then drains down in one quick motion. You don't want the oil sitting there.

The hole that you had facing the radiator needs to be facing down.
And yes the compressor is the "cold side" of the turbo, the part where the air flows in. That nipple goes straight to wastegate.
Where did you mount the FMU?

[SilvrEclipse]

What ab the AFPR. You need to answer the rest of our questions so we can help you straighten this thing out. Where is the oil leaking from?

[Cavalier9696]

K I'll rotate it again. My fmu is screwed in the firewall behind the intake. The reason I thought that line nfront of the radiator went up cause of pics like these I found on the net. The all have that line with same adapter running from what it looks like, back of block. Why IM confused.

[Cavalier9696]

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

What ab the AFPR. You need to answer the rest of our questions so we can help you straighten this thing out. Where is the oil leaking from?

I took the vac line off the stock fpr. The oil wasn't leaking anywhere from what we saw cause we checked everything.. It had to of been burning somewhere. The car smoked so bad I couldn't hardly see anything in my rearview mirror. My rear bumper is caked in sut. My girl was about a mile or 2 ahead of me and can see my coming cause the smoke. It was so bad people behind had to back waaaay off.

[Cavalier9696]

As Professor farnsworth would say from futurama "Good news everyone" ha. I put 5 quarts of oil in the car, unhooked that top oil line to see what it was doing, had my girl hold it while I cranked the car and oil was shooting right into the turbo whoohoo. I turned the car off unhooked the bottom line and oil was draining out going to the oil pan.

The oil was draining slow but IM sure that will pick up when driving the car. So hopfully the oil lines are right. Now I just got to figure out how to get my boost where I want it. Oh and get that WG tube.

[SilvrEclipse]

Those are different turbos than the one you have. Thats why they have a flange on the top and you dont. Sounds like you got it right now, I bet what was happening is the oil couldn't drain out the turbo and you where pushing the oil out the seals in the turbo. You need to check all of your intercooler pipe I bet its full of oil. You may have been lucky and it only pushed oil past the turbine seal but I doubt it. If you drove it long like that you may have blown the rings in that turbo, once you get it all straight if it still smokes you will need to rebuild it.

Now for the AFPR you dont need this. I would advise taking it off and run the stock FPR as long as your running stock injectors. You could set it to the stock fuel pressure and leave it on there but there is no use for it at this point. It would also be nice to have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car to make sure the fuel pressure is rising with boost.

[Cavalier9696]

Took a load of my shoulders when u said it sounds like I got it right. I checked the cooler piping and all is good. When I cranked it to check that oil line there was NO smoke..whooo. I got the WG tube on its way and I had to get a new feed flange cause that cheap piece of crap broke when I tried retighted it.

Ya without that tube, on my way home my car was filling with exhaust smoke (cough). The tube is 15in long so should I still have it welded to the downpipe? Cause I hate the way it sounds. To dang loud. As far as the FPR goes I will go back stock. Just hate I spent the money on it. Plus less vac lines to run.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by Cavalier9696

Ya without that tube, on my way home my car was filling with exhaust smoke (cough). The tube is 15in long so should I still have it welded to the downpipe? Cause I hate the way it sounds. To dang loud. As far as the FPR goes I will go back stock. Just hate I spent the money on it. Plus less vac lines to run.

The bypassed exhaust wasn't being routed anywhere so it was just flowing into the bay, so of course it's going to be smokey and loud. The tube that you bought sounds like an external dump. It would just throw the exhaust down below the car. It will of course be quieter, but if you don't like that you could always weld it into the DP then.

[SilvrEclipse]

Even with no dump the wastegate shouldnt be letting out that much exhaust. It should only open at full boost which should be around 7psi or so. Is the WG leaking the whole time your driving? With the fire and you said the exhaust was filling the cabin that seems like it may be dumping the whole time.

[david-b]

Is there another spot on the Wastegate to hook up a line to, like lower down on it? I was looking at the pics and trying to find a pic of the same one with no luck. Almost looks like the compressor is hooked up to the spot where the boost controller would go.