broken sway bar

[sparcx]

Here are the moog part numbers i'm going to use as replacements for the dorman one's:

K5342 End link Kit (QTY 2)
K80814 Sway Bar Bushing 1.26"/32mm (QTY 1)

i pulled the sway bar bushing size from a grand prix forum thread: http://www.grandprixforums.net/swayb...tml#post578118

All the blue moog parts were marked with a Made in the USA.

[sparcx]

In looking for information to resolve my issues....i'll recap a few new things i found for the dorman 927-100 sway bar:

• I see it for $67 shipped off of Amazon.com currently in case you don't want to do the advance auto parts online coupons mentioned previously. Returns, Warranty, and in-store pickup might be easier at Advance auto (came in handy for me).
• Dorman 927-100 Sway Bar Installation Instructions
• Dorman technical support email address: [email protected]
• There's a few recent topics that came up after this topic was posted on some grand prix forums. Looks like a lot of people prefer this Dorman bar to some of the alternatives as it's solid all the way through. Here's a few examples:

  • Sway Bar - General Tech Discussion
  • Swaybar Sizes - Brakes/Suspension/Chassis
    

[sparcx]

Problem Solved!

The bar i got from Advance had the label swapped to the passenger side. Apparently next to the made in USA on the sticker, it also says "drivers side" on it. They solely relied on the label and my bar went in upside down. Mostly Dorman's fault because of the terrible labeling. I returned the USA bar, links, bushings as defective and ended up getting the China version in trade.

It seemed like there was some slight difference in the China vs USA bar in terms of angles. Hard to say for sure since my USA bar took some abuse upside down for a year. Might leave room for a possibly defective USA made bar on top of the flipped label, but i'm doubting it.

Anyways.... except for the dent in the exhaust i mentioned above, i think i came out relatively unscathed. Hopefully it didn't cause any alignment problems or uneven tire wire.

I ended up using the Moog bushing and endlinks i mentioned above. No issues there.

Hopefully that's the end of this saga for me. I would caution anyone getting the Dorman bar to make sure that everything goes in properly. It's a good product, but pretty poor labeling that could cause some major headaches.

and the car is driving nicely now. no clunking noises in the front end and the floaty feel is gone.

[gmtech1]

Glad to hear you got it taken care of!

[sparcx]

Originally Posted by gmtech1

Glad to hear you got it taken care of!

me too!

Got lucky overall as I think many techs would have just recommended replacing the endlinks and probably wouldn't notice the curves, exhaust dent, or wrongly labeled bar. Especially with it already installed that way. The first place that i had the alignment checked recommended replacing just the endlinks. I started more asking questions since the job was only a year old.

The smartest thing i did was be pretty methodical about pictures. My digital camera paid off big time.

[djc937]

when you replace your sway bar do not get it from the dealer as these are hallow core at the tips by the links instead get the solid core OEM aftermarket replacement its is much better and will last twice as long if not more

[bighank]

Just installed the Dorman bar in my 99 Montana. With a coupon got $40 off at Advance Auto. Bar is $99.00 and added a can of PB Blaster to get the price over $100 where the $40 online code takes effect. Makes the bar $60 and got it at local store 2 hours later.
Used original bar as a guide and saw the ends bow slightly down. It is much heavier and looks like it will last a lifetime. Worst part was removing the 4 bolts holding the bushing clamps and sawing the end link bolts 2 times on each as they were rusted in multiple places. Cleaned up old clamp bolts and reused them as they have guide points narrower on the ends to prevent cross threading them.

[bighank]

Just installed the Dorman bar in my 99 Montana. With a coupon got $40 off at Advance Auto. Bar is $99.00 and added a can of PB Blaster to get the price over $100 where the $40 online code takes effect. Makes the bar $60 and got it at local store 2 hours later.
Used original bar as a guide and saw the ends bow slightly down. It is much heavier and looks like it will last a lifetime. Worst part was removing the 4 bolts holding the bushing clamps and sawing the end link bolts 2 times on each as they were rusted in multiple places. Cleaned up old clamp bolts and reused them as they have guide points narrower on the ends to prevent cross threading them.