2001 lincoln LS V8 Code # 1299

[guzzy94]

Originally Posted by shorod

If you send me a private message with an e-mail address that can accept PDF files, I can send you the little cheat sheet I put together when I was troubleshooting my wife's temp issues.

-Rod

this is my email [email protected] i am having simular problems and you seem to be the man with the right plans pleeeeeease help

[guzzy94]

Originally Posted by Quik_LS

the V8 uses a seperate electric coolant pump to circulate into the cabin - so... make sure to check out the fuses and then also check that pump.

if you PM me your e-mail address I'll send you a cooling system diagram and you can start from there.

can you send me one too please [email protected] cooling system diagrahm
-eric

[shorod]

The cheat sheet and bleed procedure should be in your inbox.

-Rod

[linc00']

Hello Rod, i have been reading ur forums and it sounds like you can help me.
I have a 00 Ls, my problem is tat i am gettin no heat. i have bled the system 3 times and looks like i got all the air out but i still have no heat. I located the heater core hoses and none of them are hot at all im thinkin its the control valve tats stuck closed but im hesitant to juss buy without really bein sure.

i would appreciate if u can guide me in wat to do Thank you

[shorod]

Welcome to the forum! But, I need to correct you, they're not my forums.

It sounds like you've narrowed your problem to the DCCV pretty well already, but you could also check for voltage (actually lack of) to the valve. Fortunately, the valve is supposed to be full open and allow 100% coolant flow when there is zero voltage to the valve. This means you can check for coolant flow by unplugging the valve (one connector for the DCCV is located towards the top passenger side (US models) of the radiator. If you unplug the DCCV and the inlet hoses to the DCCV are hot but the hoses from the DCCV to the heater cores are still cool, then the DCCV would appear to be stuck closed.

-Rod

[BigButtons]

Hi Folks,

I'm new to this forum and I hope someone can help here. I made the biggest mistake of my life (or at least my cars life). I decided to fix an "annoyance" with my 2000 Lincoln LS (3.9L V8).

It seemed to have a thermostat that was stuck open. It took a long time for the enigine to heat up and it never did reach the half way mark (even in the hot summer months). And it took a long time to get heat in the cabin (like 15 minutes or so) but it all worked. As I replaced my thermostat I found the original was actually broken in two pieces so I was pumped that my diagnoses was on the money. I replaced the thermostat and fired up the car. The car heated up quickly, then proceeded to overheat and now I have NO HEAT in the cabin. I tried the following but still get the same reasults (an engine that over heats and no cabin heat)

1. Purchased a 2nd thermostat and replaced it just in case I had a defective unit.
2. Flipped the thermostat around in the unlikely event that I originally installed it backwards.
3. Installed the origianal (broken) thermostat (in order to maintain the seal).

What disturbed me most is step 3 where I know the thermostat is always wide open and it still overheats within minutes. So what started out to be a simple fix to an annoying problem has rendered my car undrivable. I wished I never touched it. Any suggestions/assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[BigButtons]

1 more question can someone tell me specifically where the "engine air bleed & the heater air bleed are located?

For what it's worth I ordered a chilton manual for my 2000 LS at the link below. I had a hard time finding it through any of the local parts stores. So if anyone's interested here it is
http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?bi...hs.x=7&hs.y=13
They sell both new and used Manuals. You can get it really cheap.

[linc00']

thanks Rod i will try tat. if it doesnt open ill remove it? is there any kind of bench test i could perform to valve

[shorod]

Did you check for voltage to the valve while it's installed on the car? If you verify there is no voltage to it, yet the inlet hoses to it are hot and the outlet hoses are cool, that's about as good a "bench" test as you can do.

You could remove the DCCV, apply water to the inlet side and see if it flows out but that seems like a good way to make a mess. Plus, given the history of these DCCVs, I think once you go to the work of removing the valve you'll decide it's not worth putting a used one back on, especially if you plan to keep the car for awhile.

-Rod

[linc00']

hey Rod, i unplugged the dccv and wat happen was that the heater core lines got warm and the heater started to blow a lil warmer air. but it was more warmer on the passenger side than the driver side. does this mean that the control valve is good?

thanks

[linc00']

Rod,
This is what is happening now the dccv is plugged in again the heater is blowing warmer air now but still it is much warmer on the passenger side.

another is that if i put the datc in auto at 90 it will start blowing cold air out of the floor vents if i put back in the manual mode it will go back to warm.

this is a tricky one if i have in manual mode set at 90 and i select the defrost it will go cold again then i put back to the front vents and it goes warm again

I then ran the DATC self diagnostics test and it gave me a code 1342 i looked up on all data. com and the description was defective ecu and it says to install a new datc.

Another is tat wen it is at idle there is not much heat but wen i rev it up it will warm up

I am gettin pretty confused Rod i dont know which direction to take

[shorod]

Yeah, there's not much information for a DATC code 1342 other than to replace the defective DATC ECU. I've fortunately never encountered that before. I think I'd try pulling the fuse for half an hour or so for the DATC, plugging the fuse back in and trying the DATC again.

-Rod

[The ford man]

hey i work at a ford dealership and if you send me enough info like vin # or make model and engine size i can find the info you need. is there any other codes present or are you able to scan for codes. this sounds like the eatc control head to me (heater controls) but i could get you a pinpoint test for this with a little more info

[linc00']

But now there is no heat again can it be the evaparator discharge temp. sensor also? Can it be reading a high temp? Where do i locate the fuse to the DATC?

[shorod]

It would be 10-amp fuses F2.14 and F2.20 in the Central Junction Box.

-Rod