Who currently owns a GTR?

[igor@af]

is it right hand drive in Hong Kong? i forget

[200sx]

if you do bring it to this side of the world, would you drive ti to new jersey, i would love to see it, or you could just post a picture

[Initial_E]

igor@af - Yes, it is RHD in Hong Kong. I was told that it comes with CF hood, more torque and different cluster. My wife and I are getting excited to see it in Aug.

[Initial_E]

200SX - If I do bring it to the States, I would bring it to LA because my sister is living there. However, I don't have plan for that yet. Once I see the car, I am sure I would take a lot of pics and videos as well. I would like to try it on those mountain roads in HK. I want to see how it handles on those tight corners and narrow streets.

[200sx]

that sounds dangerous, please don't crash it

[rb-26DETT-Z]

Im not sure if someone replied or not but the rb26 can handle 1.12 its the turbos you have to watch. as long as you have the fuel and upgraded turbos the 2.6 is good for 500hp (reliable street everyday driver) ive seen it in japan.

[N/A]

With spot on tuning the RB 26 stock bottom end is able to take anywhere upto 1.8/1.9 bar. Even with larger turbo's, however compression must be lowered and fuel upgraded.

Standard GTR turbo's are physically not able to take more than 1 bar. if you are doing so, you are very lucky the exhaust wheel is not falling off YET! This is a fact. It has nothing to do with timing just the way it is made.

Lastly, to sustain higher power outputs, the engine has to be running at optimum levels, oil changed maxmimum every 5,000kms, inlet temp lowered (I/cooler) and engine oil cooled as it will help with the cooling of the pistons and running gear. FYI, RB26 Pistons have an oil squirter that squirts oil to the pistons to cool it down. Only other thing u have to worry about is the breaking of the running components. Ive done 2 transmissions, 1 rear diff and clutch in less than 10,000kms. My torque figures are abve 60!

[Gtr2.7L]

I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.

Things I changed: 2.7L bore-up (N1 pistons), Tomei metal head, Sard 534cc injectors, Nismo Fuel pump, all Nismo belts, N1 oil pump, Greddy oil Catch tank, HKS 2540 turbos, Nissan computer tune, Greddy secondary hi-flow fuel filter, Sard adjustable fuel regulator, HKS Super Drager exhaust,front and straight pipes, HKS intake piping w/hyper flow filters, Greddy Oil cooler, Greddy/Trust Boost controller....and for the outside...Veilside C1 wing, front and rear faschia's, Greddy Boost guage, Razo shifter, Lanzo pedals, and Nismo guage cluster (but want to upgrade to Veilside Euro). My biggest fallback are the stock rims. It's make the drive a little skittish. I only boost 1.0 bar and it's a daily driver....I'm small potatoes compared to some of the stuff I see out here....You can see my car here:

http://www.speedoptions.com/communit...ofile_id=18912

[Gtr2.7L]

By the way....ALL my mods (minus the 3200 dollar turbos) cost just under 10K US. So if you're paying 15k US to further upgrade an already somewhat upgraded car to 500HP....you're gettin' RIPPED OFF!

[Shooter Boy]

Hello,

I live in the US, and own an R32 GTR. The car is currently being prepped for all out horsepower and drag racing.

We should be ready later this year to start racing, it should be fun.

Personally, I love the car, how it handles, how it pulls, and especially the spooling of the turbos. Well, in a couple weeks, the spooling of the Turbo (singular, hehe)

[igor@af]

Welcome to AF guys!
We hope we can learn a lot from you.... [considering I plan to get a GT-R pretty soon...]

Kimi wa nihongo shabereru?
Ore wa nihon ni rokunenkan sunda. kyoto ni ihcinen to tusukuba shi, ibaraki ken [60 miles from tokyo] in go nenkan.

For hopeless people who don't know Japanese

Do you speak Japanese?
I lived in Japan for 6 years. 1 year in Kyoto and 5 years in Tsukuba city, Ibaraki prefecture [60 miles from tokyo]

[N/A]

Originally posted by Gtr2.7L
I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.


http://www.speedoptions.com/communit...ofile_id=18912

hahahaha... :o
I think you are either way right or way wrong... im guessing wrong... you may have gotten 500hp out of that car of your but oviously not the right way.. i suppose you are going to say u run quite a low boost again... i have bench flowed the GTR plenum and the Intercooler and let me tell you, there is absolutely no way it is capable of cooling down or pass trough the amount of pressure in what is needed to run 500plus... the max would be around 450hp...

"Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)"

why the hell did u change ures then? why change anything except the turbo? lets just slap alot of boost, drill a hole in the intake plenum and fit another nissan injector ( so we are not using the branded ones) and tune the standard ecu. Wake up and think b4 u say things... the cheap way may work for some who is foolish to believe it but i dont think so......


Example, Nissan in Australia changed the Radiator, Oil cooler and a few other items bcos of the difference in heat in Australia. THIS WAS FOR A STOCK CAR WITH STOCK BOOST!! " WAY OVERSIZED" u say?

LASTLY, i just read your car info... HKS 2540 Capable of 800HP between them huh? what are u on? now i know ure naive.... the turbo's are only rated at 340ps MAX.. thats 680ps.... convert that to hp from ps and u get maybe 650hp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and you say 500HP at the wheels??

"I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now."

im presuming you mean @ 4 WHEELS because its a GTR.. so 500HP +15% (GTR loss to the front) Equals 575HP @ the rear..
575HP plus 30% (power at the engine) =

747.5HP!!!
and all with stock parts.....
Do u really know what ure talking about?

[Gtr2.7L]

There is another GTR with similar work to mine down here (with the exception of the 2.7L bore-up and 2530 vice 2540 turbines) who has dynoed his car up in the Yokohama SuperAutobacs at 450 PS to the wheels. Could I get another 50 HP from the bore-up and 2540's...I think so. The majority of my tuning was done by a local who was a racing team member for Nissan in the late eighties and early nineties who specializes in Skylines.
I beefed up my engine as I want to use it as a daily driver, quarter miling, and circuit racing. No reason to get all pissy.

[N/A]

I got all "pissy" because i read your post and it was absolute garbage... i go thu forums like this to learn from others with experiences and discuss but yours was an absolute joke... all of your points were wrong and hearsay....

some will actually take what u say as guidance and make a big mistake.. and again 450ps at the wheel?? thats 450 ps at the engine buddy...

[Gtr2.7L]

Negative, he posted 450ps at the wheels, est 537ps at the crank. That was at 1.1 Bar. My "estimate" for my car is based on 1.2 Bar. I finished my rebuild in July and have just passed 1k kils in the last two weeks. I'm trying to get up to Yokohama this weekend to verify. If it comes up short, I'll let you know....I plan on posting the results on the SO website....but like I said, my friend's 32 posted 450.
I'm assuming when you say "low boost" you mean 1.4 or less....or do you mean .7 or less.

Here's a small example for you....Hyper Rev magazine...I'm sure you know what I'm talking about....Vol 56, pg 25 (Border). Completely stock engine (save R34 N1 Turbos,80 pi exhaust, stock computer tune and 550 cc injectors) 500 ps @ 1.2 Bar. Now, as you say you know so much about GTR's...you know the N1's are the same size as stock, only difference is ball bearings and metal composition.
Now....lower your compression by adding a thicker metal head, increase your turbine size 20%, increase your displacement by 100cc's, add Iridium 9's. What do you think that will do?