Car dies out

[Scrapper]

does this die out when it gets warmed up? if so i'd say catilic converters. and if it's the cats sometimes they get burnt red that could cause it to burn up your car. so i'd look at cats when you get it back together and see if they get red.

[blklink]

I have tried the propane torch and nothing, tried the extractor kit cant even get the drill bit to drill a starter hole for the extractor. Its nerve wrecking now.. I would drive it to the muffler shop but it sounds like someone dropped a 454 in it with drag pipes. Its annoying loud. So Im out of options I figure I would get a dolly have it taken to the muffler shop and see if they can do anything good with it pretty sure they can... If I had a welder I would weld them back on bump the flanges in the future I plan on getting a full exhaust system anyways. So after I get the down pipe connected back to the headers I will keep you guys posted on if its running fine after the down piupe and cat converter install back to the header.. Thanks for the help in advance.

[blklink]

Also CJ I didnt try the WD-40 what would I do heat the bolt up and just spray the wd-40 on it? Or what kinda process am I looking at in that situation. Thanks

[danielsatur]

1st post

Originally Posted by danielsatur

What elements do you need for a good burning Fire? Air, fuel, and ignition.Troubleshoot Random misfiring, a stickey throttle plate, Air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel regulator, also a plugged Catalytic converter will choke a motor out.

www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=972629

Drivers side = bank 2?

[blklink]

1st post
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielsatur
What elements do you need for a good burning Fire? Air, fuel, and ignition.Troubleshoot Random misfiring, a stickey throttle plate, Air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel regulator, also a plugged Catalytic converter will choke a motor out.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=972629


HUH? Already got this situation solved so far as I know of just trying to get the down pipe bolts that broke off out.

[danielsatur]

Buy a OEM Cat from www.catalyticconverterwarehouse.com , and have a local mufflershop weld it in.

[CJ0717]

What I have done in the past is to heat up a stubburn bolt/stud red hot. That usually breaks the corrosion up a bit. After it cools down a bit I hit it with a lubricant (WD-40) in this case. An do that 2-3 times. I'm not saying that this will do the job for this stubburn bolt but I've been able to break free some pretty stubborn corroded bolts this way.
I'm sure that a muffler shop will use a cutting torch and just cut it off if it's that hard to break free.
Note: These bolts are usually hardened and a normal High Speed Steel drill bit won't do anything. Maybe try a Carbide bit. Hardened bolts are a pup to work on when they're stuck.
If it were me I would do as you suggested and take it to the muffler shop and be done with it.

[blklink]

Welllllllll today took it to the muffler shop said they were going to get it fixed said something about tapping the bolt thats already on there and gonna weld that on heat up the exhaust manifold and see if they can get it off that way hopefully all goes well. HOPEFULLY... He said I can go pick it up tomorrow. Maybe I found my problem on the cat converters being stopped up well the screen being pushed into the pipe. Hopefully this will solve my problem. Keep you updated. Thanks.

[danielsatur]

Are you going with New OEM cats, aftermarket cats, or no cats @ all?

[blklink]

Alright alright got some good news and some bad news for the Lincoln LS.
Today got it back from the shop. They fixed the bolts that were on the exhaust manifold put new ones in. Had them to put on my new borla mufflers that I bought. All thats good. **BAD NEWS** still doing the same thing. Whats your pointers now pointing to the 02 sensors? Maybe... If I change the bank 1 will that do the job or should I just change all of them? $80 a round at 320 for the 4 didnt know if I could get away with the 2 on bank 1 or just go ahead and change all of them. Might as well. Thanks....... Derrick

[blklink]

Things that I have changed..... Mass Air Flow sensor. Fuel filter. Fuel Pump. Ignition coils. Spark plugs. Air filter. Sprayed the intake manifold with intake cleaner and also the throttle body. Cleaned all electrical plug ins with ECC. Changed the mufflers to the new borla mufflers. Cats are gutted. Checked the PVC in the center of the motor near the back, no problems with it. As far as I felt and seen anyways. Has newly put on injectors roughly 3 months old. Newly fuel rail 3 months old. New top end gaskets.
The only things I can think of I havent changed that I need to is fuel regulator. Cat backs (glass packs) whatever u call em. EGR. Idle control sensor. Just alot of odd and ends

[danielsatur]

Did the symptoms of engine dying out disappear?

[CJ0717]

Hard to believe. When you removed the one O2 sensor it ran great. right? So now with the new cats and mufflers it still bogs down? Try removing the same O2 sensor and see if you get the same result as before.
Before buying 300 dollars worth of sensors on a whim there is a way to diagnose an O2 sensor. I believ I read that you can check the voltage on the output of these when the car is running and get like 0.6vdc or something like that. zero output and I would say a bad O2 sensor.
I'll check a couple of places and get back to you. The last time I went and changed O2 sensors just ticked me off due to the fact that a code for low O2 sensor made me change 3 of them out. $240 and the problem was still there. I wish I would have verified the output voltage and I could have saved $240 bucks.

Get back to you on this

CJ

[CJ0717]

Found part of what I was looking for. Below is from this web page www.engine-light-help.com
I believe every sensor has a 4 wire connection Black being common(ground) and the others I'm not sure yet. The manufacturer like Bosch would have it avail. I'll look some more.
Here is the section on O2 sensors. They have an output voltage between zero and 1vdc If you are getting 0 or 1 and higher then something is wrong. Normally should be operating at about 0.6vdc

First we need to understand how an oxygen sensor works. The oxygen sensor screws into the exhaust and the sensor end protrudes into the pipe so that exhaust gases pass across the sensors internal element. There is a steel shielding with slots that direct exhaust flow across the actual element. As a note, oxygen sensors used to determine engine fuel ratios are always located in front of the catalytic converter. The sensors behind the cats are called monitors and we will discuss these later. Sensors are normally described with the prefix HO2S meaning Heated Oxygen Sensor and followed with bank and position number. For example HO2S11 would be the oxygen sensor on bank 1 and first in line (pre catalytic converter) and HO2S12 would be on bank 1, but second in line (the monitor) An oxygen sensor creates a voltage between 0 and 1 volt by means of a chemical reaction between the sensor element and the oxygen in the exhaust passing across that element. Outside air also passes through the sensor and it is a comparison between the oxygen content in the exhaust and fresh air that actually determines voltage output (information for trivial purposes only and for curious techs). Believe it or not, the fresh air on many sensors actually travels through the wiring insulation! Anyway, a voltage closer to one volt indicates a rich condition and closer to zero indicates lean. The computer uses this valve to constantly adjust fuel trim to maintain a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. We will be putting up an article on fuel trim soon but this is a huge topic all on its own. Okay so this is where it gets somewhat complicated. Just kidding! It’s all nuts and bolts; and wires, and chemicals and never mind!

[CJ0717]

3 or 4 wire sensors. Black = Ground / Blue = signal to PCM (should read between 0 and 1 vdc.)
The 3rd wire goes thru the fuel pump circuit and the 4th can be for a heater element in the O2 sensor.

Hope this saves you some dollars.