2001 lincoln LS V8 Code # 1299

[rhanson1]

Fair enough - I'll give it a try. I guess I must have forgotten about your previous post. I figured that a bad sensor would probably show either an open circuit or a short circuit or a steady resistance in all temperatures. I didn't realize that a bad sensor could still show a seemingly normal and varying resistance. I'll try swapping them.

The other thing that occurred to me is that maybe I'm making this all too complicated. If it appears that I cannot solve this mystery, perhaps I should simply resign myself to manually shutting off the AC and forget about it. The system seems to work fine in the current exterior temperatures (40-60 degrees) when I manually shut off the AC. Once the outside temperature gets below freezing, I don't think that the AC can run anyhow. It might become a problem when we get back into the air-conditioning season, but maybe not. It could also be a problem in damp weather trying to modulate the AC on and off to balance between dehumidification and a comfortable temperature. But I may opt for that inconvenience before spending hundreds or maybe over a thousand dollars trying to find a fix. Hopefully an easy solution will come soon.

[rhanson1]

Rod, as you suggested, I removed the passenger side heater core temperature sensor to swap with the evaporator discharge temperature sensor that I removed a couple days ago. Before making the swap, I put the ohmmeter on this sensor just like I did the other one. It seemed to behave normally, and I got the same exact resistance readings from both sensors. That convinced me that both sensors must be fine. Nevertheless I made the swap.

Dang, I couldn't believe what happened next. The heat worked fine for the first 15-20 minutes like it's been doing all along. Then I noticed that the air coming from the vents on just the passenger side started turning cool. As time went on, the passenger side air became progressively cooler, while the driver's side stayed at the same warm even temperature that it was supposed to be. That obviously confirms that my evaporator discharge temperature sensor was bad - just as you suspected! When I swapped that bad sensor into the passenger heater core discharge position, then I started having the identical problem with the passenger side only.

I don't understand it, and it makes no sense - but obviously I've got one temperature sensor that it not doing something that it's supposed to be doing. And I still don't understand the reason for the consistent 15-20 delay in the malfunction. But you nailed it. You da man!

I just ordered a new temperature sensor online for $9.93 plus $6.86 shipping. The parts place that you suggested in a previous post didn't seem to have temperature sensors, but this other place that I found does http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php . Thanks for all your help, Rod. I never did get any response to the message that I sent to the service manager at the dealership, so thank God I don't him anymore.

[shorod]

Glad to hear you're making progress, and hopefully this will take care of all the issues!

-Rod

[rhanson1]

My new temperature sensor arrived yesterday afternoon, and I installed it this morning. My climate control system now works flawlessly. Thanks again Rod for all your help. Without it, I likely would have spent many hundreds of dollars for diagnoses, tearing apart the dashboard, and replacing parts that have nothing wrong with them. And my frustration level would probably have been off the charts. Instead, it cost me $16 for a sensor and 5 minutes to install it. Like I said before, you da' man!

[Cliffkat]

Hello everyone,

First time logging in here. I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with a V8. No heat from the heater. I have back flushed the heater core, replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system. The two inlet hoses to the heater core gets hot at the core and the outlet hose stays cold. My question is can the DCCV stop flow from the heater core? One more thing, when I accelerate hard, hot air will blow from the vents and as soon as I slow down it's back to cold air.

[shorod]

Originally Posted by Cliffkat

Hello everyone,

First time logging in here. I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with a V8. No heat from the heater. I have back flushed the heater core, replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system. The two inlet hoses to the heater core gets hot at the core and the outlet hose stays cold. My question is can the DCCV stop flow from the heater core? One more thing, when I accelerate hard, hot air will blow from the vents and as soon as I slow down it's back to cold air.

Your last sentence makes me suspect you have air trapped in the cooling system, which could at least contribute to your issue.

-Rod

[Cliffkat]

Originally Posted by shorod

Your last sentence makes me suspect you have air trapped in the cooling system, which could at least contribute to your issue.

-Rod

Thanks for the tip. I tried to bleed the system but I don't know if I did it right. I opened the air bleed, filled both the degas bottle and engine fill and ran the car at idle till a stream (not constant) was coming out of the air bleed. When I'm in the gas, I get hot air. But, as soon as I let off the gas back to idle, the air starts to get colder. The good news is that the outlet hose at the heater core is hot. Is there a better way to bleed the system?
Thanks for your help.

[shorod]

The procedure from the factory service manual:

1. Remove the engine fill cap.
On 3.0L engines
2. Open the engine air bleed.
On all engines
3. Open the heater air bleed.
4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
On 3.0L engines
5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
On all engines
6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
On 3.9L engines
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
contaminated with engine coolant.
7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
8. Replace the engine fill cap.
On all engines
9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
cold fill MAX mark.
12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
On 3.9L engines
13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On 3.0L engines
15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On all engines
17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
mark.

-Rod

[HOU02LSV8]

Rod or Hanson,

GREAT post! I have been having the same issue with my 02. Is there any info you guys can email me on what I need to do to get this fixed?

Originally Posted by rhanson1

My new temperature sensor arrived yesterday afternoon, and I installed it this morning. My climate control system now works flawlessly. Thanks again Rod for all your help. Without it, I likely would have spent many hundreds of dollars for diagnoses, tearing apart the dashboard, and replacing parts that have nothing wrong with them. And my frustration level would probably have been off the charts. Instead, it cost me $16 for a sensor and 5 minutes to install it. Like I said before, you da' man!

[shorod]

Which issue are you having, the 1299 code or the just climate control heat/cool issues without any specific code? Have you read through the 4 pages of this thread and tried the various suggestions?

-Rod

[HOU02LSV8]

Just the climate control issues. My A/C blows COLD unless I set it ti 90, then it blows HOT. And it doesn't help that I am ignorant about cars.....

Originally Posted by shorod

Which issue are you having, the 1299 code or the just climate control heat/cool issues without any specific code? Have you read through the 4 pages of this thread and tried the various suggestions?

-Rod

[shorod]

If you send me a private message with an e-mail address that can accept PDF files, I can send you the little cheat sheet I put together when I was troubleshooting my wife's temp issues.

-Rod

[shorod]

Originally Posted by shorod

If you send me a private message with an e-mail address that can accept PDF files, I can send you the little cheat sheet I put together when I was troubleshooting my wife's temp issues.

-Rod

Per your PM, the file should be in your inbox.

-Rod

[Cliffkat]

Originally Posted by shorod

The procedure from the factory service manual:

1. Remove the engine fill cap.
On 3.0L engines
2. Open the engine air bleed.
On all engines
3. Open the heater air bleed.
4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
On 3.0L engines
5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
On all engines
6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
On 3.9L engines
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
contaminated with engine coolant.
7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
8. Replace the engine fill cap.
On all engines
9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
cold fill MAX mark.
12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
On 3.9L engines
13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On 3.0L engines
15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On all engines
17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
mark.

-Rod

Thanks for steps Rod,

I performed the steps twice and had the same results. I never got a steady stream of coolant on Step 10. Whenever I maintained the engine speed at 1500 RPM, the air was hot. Whenever I returned the engine speed to idle, the air blowed luke warm. What do you think? Still have trapped air in the system?
Thanks,
Cliffkat

[guzzy94]

can you pleeeeeease send me the same cheat sheets i have no owners manual and i want to bleed the coolant system and need to know what parts are which?