1980 Z-28 Help!!!!!!

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?

Yepper, why would it be so high if it's supposed to be around 8? Could it be where the distributor was not put back in the car correctly? Would that have anything to do with no power in 4th?

[wrightz28]

That's what I've been saying. The new mechanic would have had to set the timing after pulling the distributer out for the rebuild, what did he set it to?

If he set it back to 22* adv. Then yes, that's the problem, you're not getting proper combustion, and an engine that is too far advanced will also experience overheating problems.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?

also found 2 huge vacuum leaks, the grommet that goes in the master cylinder, and the vacuum hose that comes out of the firewall needed replaced, so how could the new mechanic set the timing with these huge leaks? They are fixed now though, any more ideas guys? Have a friend coming over to check the timing and tach, and hopefully he can do a compression test as well, not so sure about my new mechanic

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

also found 2 huge vacuum leaks, the grommet that goes in the master cylinder, and the vacuum hose that comes out of the firewall needed replaced, so how could the new mechanic set the timing with these huge leaks? They are fixed now though, any more ideas guys? Have a friend coming over to check the timing and tach, and hopefully he can do a compression test as well, not so sure about my new mechanic

So, I guess I'm going this alone, will anything bad happen to the engine if I take the timing back to around 8* where it's supposed to be? And what could the funny noise be in the front of the car when I let off the gas? Should I also put the clutchfan back in her?

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

If he set it back to 22* adv. Then yes, that's the problem, you're not getting proper combustion, and an engine that is too far advanced will also experience overheating problems.

The base timing needs to be reset to 8*, I'm surprised the thing isn't detonating like crazy becasue it's right at the threshhold of doing so. Your distributer should be vacuum advanced unit, no? Make sure you disconnect the vacuum line to it (plug the hose while it's off) to get your base timing. Also, be sure you're reading the timing tab correclty, there were 2 different ones used.

The funny noise thing, not really sure, maybe a heat shield on the exhaust?

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

The base timing needs to be reset to 8*, I'm surprised the thing isn't detonating like crazy becasue it's right at the threshhold of doing so. Your distributer should be vacuum advanced unit, no? Make sure you disconnect the vacuum line to it (plug the hose while it's off) to get your base timing. Also, be sure you're reading the timing tab correclty, there were 2 different ones used.

The funny noise thing, not really sure, maybe a heat shield on the exhaust?

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! The timing is back to 8* now but took her for a test drive with bubba, heard a horrid noise in back that I've never heard before, ughhhhhhh, she has a 308 rearend, should I put a different one in? Will take a look first, if I see medal then I will replace right? And still NO POWER IN 4TH GEAR !!!!!!!

Any ideas would be very much appreciated, tyvm, I want my bitch back!!

[wrightz28]

You set the timing with the advance off right?

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

You set the timing with the advance off right?

Yepper my dear, per your instructions, she went back to 8* just fine, question though, if my rearend was out, would that cause the tack to read high and no power in topend? I'm at a loss here, don't know what to do or what to check next, she is breaking the bank here, HELP AND TYVM

[wrightz28]

I think by the time this car runs right again I'll have atleast 2 seizures.

Now there's all the sudden noise from the rear end after setting the base ignition to where it should be at 8*?

The new "mechanic" verified the ingition system firing order is correct?

And again, this problem just appeared out of the blue? Nothing was done just before it started to act up/ Then the first mechanic replaced the carb and clutch?

Sorry to keep asking the same questions over and over, but something dosen't make sense.

If a carb is in proper tune, ignition is correct, exxhaust is clear (brand new now), and brakes aren't dragging. this problem should not exsist.

What exaclty did the first dipstick do to the trans? Just the clutch?

[wrightz28]

And, your welcome,.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Nope, funny noise when fatass got inthe car, lol the firing order is correct. There were funny noises but fired mechanic said the car was fine all in my head, so I brought her home and friend and me installed clutch and carb. She will start on click of key, and run without stalling, just driving it is when I have the problem. And I'm still not convinced that the brakes aren't dragging, they feel funny already and just put the drums on, wtf?

Originally Posted by wrightz28

I think by the time this car runs right again I'll have atleast 2 seizures.

Now there's all the sudden noise from the rear end after setting the base ignition to where it should be at 8*?

The new "mechanic" verified the ingition system firing order is correct?

And again, this problem just appeared out of the blue? Nothing was done just before it started to act up/ Then the first mechanic replaced the carb and clutch?

Sorry to keep asking the same questions over and over, but something dosen't make sense.

If a carb is in proper tune, ignition is correct, exxhaust is clear (brand new now), and brakes aren't dragging. this problem should not exsist.

What exaclty did the first dipstick do to the trans? Just the clutch?

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

And I'm still not convinced that the brakes aren't dragging, they feel funny already and just put the drums on, wtf?

Ok, then you NEED to do as previously suggested and get each tire off the ground and turn them by hand. A very slight drag is normal, Heavy drag to no turn obviously indicates a problem( remember to have it in neutral when checking the rears).

Only reason why ask about the trans is if it is ok in all other gears except 4th, then maybe the synchronizer is gone and the gear isn't holding. When you said the trans was worked on before, I ass-u-me'd that this would have been a cincideration by whomever did the work on it. A quick dirty check would be a drain of the trans, if it is extremely glittery with brass (synchro debris) then that's a good chance. Some presense of brass glitter is normal. Might as well drain and refill the differential while your at it, it's the same gear lube anyway. You lost me on the whole "fat ass" thing

But with the base timing set correctly now it should be starting a whole lot easier, using less gas and smell pretty clean too.

[Elizabeth Ann]

I have had the trany rebuilt some years ago, will check the tires for drag as well as making sure everything is still hooked up right, the fired mechanic is the one that did the brakes and lied about turning drums. He is also the one that I made come to my house to reset timing to 8*, which I will also have double checked, he put the distributor vacuum so that it caught on the carb, grrrrrrrr just more of his rigging but I found this one, the carb is being replaced with a Edlebrock 600, with Electric choke back on, although she sounds so much better now. Will also check the trany fluid as well, she does have a rearmain leak. And the fatass is the fired mechanic that went for a test drive with me, lmao, Elizabeth and tyvm, can I keep picking your brain until I get her right? rofl

Originally Posted by wrightz28

Ok, then you NEED to do as previously suggested and get each tire off the ground and turn them by hand. A very slight drag is normal, Heavy drag to no turn obviously indicates a problem( remember to have it in neutral when checking the rears).

Only reason why ask about the trans is if it is ok in all other gears except 4th, then maybe the synchronizer is gone and the gear isn't holding. When you said the trans was worked on before, I ass-u-me'd that this would have been a cincideration by whomever did the work on it. A quick dirty check would be a drain of the trans, if it is extremely glittery with brass (synchro debris) then that's a good chance. Some presense of brass glitter is normal. Might as well drain and refill the differential while your at it, it's the same gear lube anyway. You lost me on the whole "fat ass" thing

But with the base timing set correctly now it should be starting a whole lot easier, using less gas and smell pretty clean too.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

can I keep picking your brain until I get her right? rofl

Dear lord, it's starting to hurt

[Elizabeth Ann]

Awwwwwwwwwww, so sorry that it hurts, lmao, k, so the quad carb that was on it was defective, put a Holley on her, made a big difference, weeeeeeeeee, BUT still have the same problem, no baaaaaaaaa waaaaaaaaa that will throw your head back, soooooooooo am having the motor pulled in about a week, the guy that is doing it only works on and races camaro's and will pull motor, check, rebuild and re-install for about $800, I think it's a good deal, what do you think? I think it's a burnt valve from running to rich for so long, there is a miss that is there at high or low, what do you think? Want some Advil yet? lmao ps. guess the other guys gave up on me? tyvm for the help, Elizabeth Ann

Originally Posted by wrightz28

Dear lord, it's starting to hurt