'96 Metro Trans Problem

[hot_sd]

I have the factory service manual for my car (2000 Metro) and it does cover the tranny controls quite well as well as some service work like valve body disassembly. However, it does not cover a full rebuild - the ATSG manual (link I posted in an earlier post) does a fairly good job although it only covers controls on the older cars. I was considering getting the factory manual for the tranny but I don't think I need that now. Given my car is only a 2000 with 86K miles now (had about 72K when I rebuilt it) it was kind of suprising. The intermidiate band snapped near the hinge point. I guess it may have been a defective part at manufacture. The rest of the tranny was is very good condition but to complete the rebuild I pulled everything apart and replaced all the clutch discs and plates as well as all the seals and o-rings. Point being that your tranny may actually be in good ocndition with the lack of service by a previous owner causing clogging up of the valve body wih clutch material or something similar. If you have the time and want to learn something about auto trannies you can have a go at fixing it.

If the gear wheel teeth have become damaged due to the little mishap then you will notice it when you drive - you may have a vibration or something like that. In that case if you plan to repair the tranny you can probably get a used gear wheel.

Only way to check for mechanical jam in the solenoid is to remove and inspect the opening or test with compressed air (I think I posted the technique somewhere earlier in this thread).

Yes, sometimes my brain freezes up also (referring to alternator post). Probably at that time some people were thinking that I was an idiot also

And my name BTW is Ravin.

[Chacheska]

Hey there, Ravin. Since I own 6 running Metros and one parts car I can put this '96 aside for awhile and play with it. One of my '94's is pretty beat so that leaves me with 4 roadworthy Metros. Once I get that strut replaced I can road test the trans. I also have a 2000 Metro with about 180,000 on it. Bought it last year for $150 'cause it needed an alternator (which I got out of a boneyard for $22.50) speed sensor and speed control. The Speedo and odometer don't work and the lady I bought it from said that was the diagnosis from a repair shop. Anyway, you're killing me on this ohm thing. You're never going to tell me about those readings I took, are you? You're gonna make me suffer. I'd really like to know what the .11 on the meter equates to in ohms. I guess I can find out locally. I think I've got all the mileage I'm going to get out of this particular post and have enough info to do what I need to do. I'm having increasing trouble replying to a post. The last one took 15 minutes. I keep getting denied when I try to post something so if you don't hear from me again it's because I'm being denied the ability to post for some reason. Thanks VERY much! You posted about 98% of the info regarding this trans problem and I can't thank you enough for all the time you've donated. Hopefully as I get more involved with my Metros I'll be able to return the favor for you and others.

Karl

[Metro Mighty Mouse]

JDM = Japanese domestic market
Japan has significantly different laws concerning cars. They are required to rebuild or replace the motor approximately every 50,000 miles so they started shipping those motors to the states as cheap replacements. Since they are already shipping the motors it is easy to also ship good transmissions along with them. So we get to buy low mileage good motors and transmissions for a very reasonable price.

As far as difficult to remove bolts, the one for the strut that you are dealing with is steel in steel, perfect for rusting in. the great majority of what you would be removing from the engine and trans will be steel in alloy or aluminum or whatever they decided to make these babies out of. The point being there is very little "rust seize", and they should be reasonably easy to get out. The one real exception is the exaust manifold to pipe bolts, they take lots of coaxing to get out.

Good luck, btw I plan to have a bigger photo of my dash on my "Offerings" post and I should have the tail end of my car in my signature tonight.

[hot_sd]

I guess I did not read all of your previous post. Unfortunately as I cannot see what your meter is reading I would only be guessing when the reading means. If you can post up a picture of what you are seeing (pic of the meter showing the range selected as well as what it is reading) then we could tell you what the ohm reading is.

If you plan to work on your tranny yourself post back and I can tell you what tools to get etc. The one downside with repairing trannies is that the tools are very expensive although there are good deals to be had on ebay. I bought all the tools used (apart from the clutch pack compressor) on ebay. Parts are inexpensive - would cost about $100 for a full rebuild kit (clutch discs & plates, band and the gasket pack) and you can get many used hard parts if you need to replace anything that looks damaged.

Look forward to getting help from you on some stuff in the future!