American or Import

[Zgringo]

Mr. Chevtrucks92, super advice. Glad to see your dialing in alittle better. I just broke my own record last week.

[chevytrucks92]

Originally Posted by 86MonteSS

not sure what kinda springs are on it....the heads were bought how they are....they came off an 1/8 mile dragster.....they have been ran for 3 seasons on his car..... unknown how long on the dragster

Well, if it were my engine, I would def. change the valve springs before it the engine ever turned over again. Also, I'd have the valves checked (make sure none are bent), valve seats, valve guides, and have air flow checked.

Three years is along time to go without doing all of what I said, and if your friend isn't careful, he'll wind up having a valve spring fail, and cuase a piston to get into a valve(s) and ruin a good engine. Most of the time when a piston gets into a valve (because of a valve spring) the valve winds up broke, and shoved through the heads, lol, a piston is destroyed, and a cylinder wall is busted.

We have new springs and all of what I said above checked after every year (exception for this year, becuase the engine in the car is brand new, and only has maybe 12 weekends on it this year.). Now next year, I'll probably swap engines to another 406 we have that has just been freshley overhauled (even has a new intake). I think all it needs is lifters and a carb and it would be complete, and then have the heads on the engine in the car freshened, since the rest of the engine is practically brand new.

[chevytrucks92]

Originally Posted by Zgringo

Mr. Chevtrucks92, super advice. Glad to see your dialing in alittle better. I just broke my own record last week.

Hello Zgringo, good to hear from ya again. Congrats. on beating your personal best!

I really should change my sig, my season was over the first weekend of November lol. Finished 3rd place though, lol, so I guess I finished on a good note!

This was my first season of driving. I ran 10 races, had 1 win, and 2 third places. I was pretty happy about it. Most people that start bracket racing take 3 or 4 races before they win a round (most don't start in the top class either), I won my first 2 rounds.

[86MonteSS]

well no need for this season he is planning on buying some type of new heads i think world product but not sure....but they will be aluminum... and have 2.08 intake and bigger runners that the vortecs

[TunerAdept]

A 1992 30th anniversary camaro with the first LT1 350 v8, with the LT4 conversion kit taking it to 425rwhp, then stacking a vortech supercharger on that will pull anout 600rwhp all barely under 5k if you install it yourself. friend did it, ran 10.62 1/4

[FormulaLT1]

The LT1 wasn't added to F-body's til 93.

[dampachi]

$5,000 will make an 03/04 cobra fly. $200 and you're in the 11s...

[SpeedDemon101]

a geo metro (prime example of american performance) with a 400 shot of nitrous. That will take you to a little over 400 whp...Youll go some where quick, i can tell you that.

[1viadrft]

I vote for:

300ZX Twin Turbo

Supra Twin Turbo

RX7 with a 20B

Ultimate Import Drag Cars... hands down. And they can certainly keep up with and annihilate your Drag V8 with less displacement, and less or no pistons!

It would be cheaper to put together an old Domestic though... been around for years and the technology has barely changed. Means less $$$...

[=OrangeZ=]

Originally Posted by amean94ta

you my friend are smoking crack

haha i dont think you guys even realize what cavalier can even run boosted do you

with 200whp you can get into the 13's as they are a pretty "LIGHT" car no there not heavy at all unless you consider 2600lbs heavy

also with 270whp on stock interals you can get into the mid 12's with slicks its already been done so imagine for a sec if you had around 350whp you could hit the 11's which that has also been done before so no im not smoking crack
just for a good example im well into the 13's and i only have around 220whp

im not smoking crack youve just all been misinformed by all these riced out automatic 2.2 ohv cavaliers that run 17's



so dont underestamate the J

[UnrelentingPain3]

1gen eclipse gsx and a turbo upgrade ,fast enough for me

[-Jayson-]

id buy a rocket car and spend the rest of jet fuel.

[CassiesMan]

Bussy or ZX-12.

[uranium235powered]

gutted 240SX, turbo the KA24...& slicks.

[timiacobucci]

Not sure how old this thread is but I was wondering what some of you guys might think of a few ideas I had when reading this thread.

I am thinking big block ford in a hatch fox body mustang for all out budget et.
It is funny you guys arguing about import vs domestic engine durability and strength. There are a few that are really tough and well made on both sides but most are generally crap. Most of the large companies still can’t top the strength of the independent motors offered in the 50’s and 60’s. Check out the technical data on some of the Studebaker engines sometime if you don’t believe me, they weren’t called million mile engines for nothing.


I really like the 385 series big block ford, it is a seriously underappreciated engine, even in the domestic scene. I argue that a well made early cylinder head big block ford will make more power more reliably than just about anything else you can obtain and build for cheap. With the early head design (pre-smog) nearly 400 hp and 500 ft/lbs of torque stock. And that thing about buzzing your engine to 7500 rpm? In a short stroke 4 cyl that is not much, but how about 1000 rpm in a 483 ci engine on the STOCK CAST NODULAR IRON crankshaft?

http://www.network54.com/Forum/threa...eid=1120494475

Now imagine the abuse a forged steel 429 crank can withstand.

You can buy a whole 69-70 lincoln in a junkyard for next to nothing depending on your haggling skill and where you get it. This will give you a strong early 460 big block and the monster c6 trans and infamous 9in rear differential found in all makes of drag car (even allot of the real fast imports). So there is your entire driveline.

Then you get a shitty junked 80’s hatch mustang with a blown engine and a good body, this can’t cost much at all especially because you don’t even need the engine or any of the drivetrain. Gut it for weight and weld in some ladder bars and some subframe connectors.

Port the heads the right way and tune it good and you can make 500+hp with equal torque and a very broad power band. Spend a bit on a good higher stall converter and drop this all in light fox body with some slicks and you can go high 10’s.

I think that is probably the fastest you will go for the least amount of money. The beauty of this is that you can continue to upgrade as you get more money to keep going faster. With some welding fabrication skills you can back half the car for pretty cheap. This will cost serious $ if you have it done at a speedshop for you though it is needed to reliably go into the 9’s. And this will be a very driveable streetcar. I really can’t imagine any fwd car in the 9’s is going to be real mild mannered on the street, and there is no way in hell you can get there without some serious coin. I don’t know how a 9 sec dsm would be on the street but that would also require a lot of money, if only spent to get the whole driveline not to explode on the launch.

But this is pure et, I would like to build a car like this someday but I am burned out on mustangs and have only ever owned domestic. For the street I think driveability and feel are more important, this is why I really want to get a tsi for my next car. I mean who really needs a 9 sec street car? 10 or 11 will destroy pretty much everything you come up against. And then there is rain. Anyone who has driven a high powered rear drive vehicle in the rain will tell you it gets scary pretty fast.

Awd in the rain? meh. In a test a modified gsx eclipse actually accelerated faster (3.92 sec 0-60 time) in the wet because of the increased tire slippaged that brought the turbo engine into its power band more quickly.

http://www.dsmporn.com/magazines/drivetrain/img0007.htm

Try that in a short wheelbase big block powered fox body.