Passlock System

[Nick2006Matrix]

Try a 2.2K 1/4 watt resistor. Once you complete the installation procedure go through the 10 min. reset process. Your car will learn the new reistance value. If you were able to read and duplicate the original resistance you would not have to go through the relearn process.

[brcidd]

When I bypass Passlock II when doing remote starters- I do essentially the same thing you describe with the resistor-- only that I use a relay to activate the new resistive circuit. The reason is that at rest (key off) that circuit shows 5 volts- and I am afraid that with just a resistor in there- that I would always experience an amp draw- although a small one- I am fearful it would run the battery down after a while- So I wire it so the resistor only see voltage when the ignition is on-- which is how I believe the car does it. Have any of you who have wired there permanent resistors in place ever done an amp draw test (at the battery) to prove this out? I would be curious if a car that has been permanently bypassed this way can start after sitting a week or so... Just my thoughts....

[back2u]

Originally Posted by Nick2006Matrix

Try a 2.2K 1/4 watt resistor. Once you complete the installation procedure go through the 10 min. reset process. Your car will learn the new reistance value. If you were able to read and duplicate the original resistance you would not have to go through the relearn process.

Ok I tried that and the car ran but the "theft" light stays on.
I see ponch has found between 3k to 5k ohms work best. I've got a 5pk of 2.2k resistors , should I try 2 then "relearn" and see if the light goes out?
Or is there a way of getting an actual reading with the ohm meter that I've overlooked?
Also if I cut the resistor loose does the car need to be running when I do it?
Thanks!

[W00DERSON]

Need help quickly.

First of all I couldn't get the car to ever start the first time. I would have to let it sit for ten minutes and then start it.

So, I couldn't get a reading. I then decided to install a 2.2k 1/2 watt resistor. Is it ok that I used a 1/2 instead of 1/4?

Well after I installed it, it will now start everytime but run for about two seconds and then die and the anti theft light will flash.

I have tried three times. What is the actual learn procedure. Do I try to start it after each ten minute interval, or do I just go on for ten minutes then off, and then right back on three times? I need help quick. Any advice is appreciated.

[W00DERSON]

Oops! Never mind. I went back and checked and the problem was that I installed a 22k resistor instead of a 2.2k resistor. I spliced in the right resistor this morning. Let it sit for ten minutes and now it starts every time without a problem. Thanks to all of you for your help.

[Nick2006Matrix]

I would try the 2.2K resistor instead of duplicating the resitance in the system. Please post results when done. I have a remote starter in my 2002 Grand Am and if I develop passlock problems the car should start by activating the remote since a bypass module is installed in the ignition circuit. The bypass is only active when remote start is activated.

[Kelemvor]

Hi all,

Really late to this thread but great info. My '99 Grand Am has been pissing me off again today with the wonderful Passlock System. Flashing light, wait 10 minutes to be able to start my own car.

Would I be safe to do the yellow wire mod that is referenced way back at the beginning of this thread? My car is 10 years old and I'm not worried about anyone stealing it. If I have to replace the battery I can just splice the wire to start it up and then take it off again right?

I did email the cac@Pontiac.com address today so we'll see what BS they come back with.

[darthbuz]

okay hello and greetings from nevada

I have a '00 malibu v6 auto trans.
currently its sitting in a walmart parking lot not starting
we get the crank crank crank.

I have 0 dash lights not even the millage nor the theft light.
I have had the theft light thing happen before and it would run great for a year or so

so
am I looking at replacing the ignition switch/assy?

I hate the car more than anything.

and do not want to dump another $500 into it.
any help would be great
thank you

Dan

[serski]

Just posting from my own experience. I've tried everything in this posting to avoid going to the dealership to spend money on fixing this problem. I've used the toggle switch, I've used the other key, I've removed a remote starting system, purchased a new battery, I've had the dash apart numerous times. I've drove it around for a few weeks when it would not even start. I would literally have to pull the cables off the battery for a minute, reconnect, and then it would run, but who knew if it would start next time. I was finding myself popping the hood and disonnecting and reconnecting more than I wanted to.
-Remedy- Take it to the dealership, they hooked it up, diagnosed it to be the BCM, body control module, no more problems. Car has been fine for the last 6 months. If you do enough reading, this whole anti theft device is tied back to the BCM. They had it done in a couple of hours, most dealerships stock that part, who knows why they go out, but it is common after or around 100,000 miles. Cost $400.00... There was no key issue at all, it was all in the BCM, I also had the anti theft light come one.
Just sharing my story...

[manicmechanix]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

okay hello and greetings from nevada

I have a '00 malibu v6 auto trans.
currently its sitting in a walmart parking lot not starting
we get the crank crank crank.

I have 0 dash lights not even the millage nor the theft light.
I have had the theft light thing happen before and it would run great for a year or so

so
am I looking at replacing the ignition switch/assy?

I hate the car more than anything.

and do not want to dump another $500 into it.
any help would be great
thank you

Dan

Your problem is probably beyond just a passlock or an ign switch problem since your instrument panel is inoperative, although it could be the ign switch. Have you checked all fuses to the instrument panel and ignition? With a Tech2 it would lead you to the problem. Without that, it would probably end up being a lot of probing of connecters and substituting expensive parts and even if you did find the problem, say the BCM is bad, you couldn't fix it anyway without a tech2 to reprogram the replacement and the PCM. Probably towing it to a dealer for diagnosis will be the cheapest route in the end.

Anyway if you haven't yet check all fuses especially ones labeled "IPC", "BCF", "BCF/IGN or IP, check all fuses to see if any are blown. It's probbaly not a fuse but you never know till you check.

Edit: Hey serkski, I didn't see your post till after I posted, yet it looks like we are in agreement pretty much.

[darthbuz]

yeah fuses are good the pannel comes on some times thinking that the switch is toast
and i dont wana think about dealers....

[serski]

Originally Posted by manicmechanix

Your problem is probably beyond just a passlock or an ign switch problem since your instrument panel is inoperative, although it could be the ign switch. Have you checked all fuses to the instrument panel and ignition? With a Tech2 it would lead you to the problem. Without that, it would probably end up being a lot of probing of connecters and substituting expensive parts and even if you did find the problem, say the BCM is bad, you couldn't fix it anyway without a tech2 to reprogram the replacement and the PCM. Probably towing it to a dealer for diagnosis will be the cheapest route in the end.

Anyway if you haven't yet check all fuses especially ones labeled "IPC", "BCF", "BCF/IGN or IP, check all fuses to see if any are blown. It's probbaly not a fuse but you never know till you check.

Edit: Hey serkski, I didn't see your post till after I posted, yet it looks like we are in agreement pretty much.

I agree, check your fuses first, they would be the simpliest, but they rarley do ever end up being the problem. I would save yourself the headache and take it in. I'd put money on a bad BCM. It is quick and easy to change, just above your left foot when you're sitting in the drivers seat, but it does need to be programmed for your mileagle, car options, motor, these types of things. It's basically something the dealer can only program. I'm not really familiar with the tech 2 tool, maybe if you knew someone that was a mechanic they could program it for you? For a cheaper alternative... Here's a link to one for sale on e-bay. Good luck...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVR...Q5fAccessories
Its a used one, I wonder if you could just throw it in and go?

[serski]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

yeah fuses are good the pannel comes on some times thinking that the switch is toast
and i dont wana think about dealers....

Don't think the switch... I know it seems like it is probably the switch, but that damn BCM is a big computer chip that controlls all. Mine would actually start acting up when it was super hot out, really didn't have much of a problem in the winter months up here in michigan, but for some reason when it was hot out (summer months), it would act up real bad. Have you noticed other things that have gone out? Door lock, windows, any electrically controlled components. My door locks actually went out before I had the big no start problems. After replacing the BCM, everything was just like new/back to normal. Don't think that it's that switch... I'm tellin ya, BCM... Good luck man... Let us know when you do get it figured out/diagnosed...

[serski]

Originally Posted by serski

I agree, check your fuses first, they would be the simpliest, but they rarley do ever end up being the problem. I would save yourself the headache and take it in. I'd put money on a bad BCM. It is quick and easy to change, just above your left foot when you're sitting in the drivers seat, but it does need to be programmed for your mileagle, car options, motor, these types of things. It's basically something the dealer can only program. I'm not really familiar with the tech 2 tool, maybe if you knew someone that was a mechanic they could program it for you? For a cheaper alternative... Here's a link to one for sale on e-bay. Good luck...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVR...Q5fAccessories
Its a used one, I wonder if you could just throw it in and go?

Sorry, thought it was a "99" for somre reason, but here is a link to a 2000 model BCM, see if your ID#'s match, maybe you can throw it in and go without reprogramming?

[serski]

Originally Posted by serski

Sorry, thought it was a "99" for somre reason, but here is a link to a 2000 model BCM, see if your ID#'s match, maybe you can throw it in and go without reprogramming?

Opps, Here's the link for the 2000 year BCM...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...4506.m20.l1116

Good luck...