Dodge Daytona hop up ideas?

[Polygon]

Originally posted by PWMAN


Where can I get an air/water intercooler - never seen one for sale.

I was going to get a KN cone filter, but what can I use for piping that will bend so I can make it a cold air intake?

2.5" straightpipe isn't enough? 3'' just seems rediculous to me, maybe it isn't?

Spearco makes one but it is close to $2,000. It is what I am putting in the GTC project. Since water has better heat tranfer the air will be cooler. Ait to air is good and it costs a lot less as well. I just prefer air to water.

You would have to find a kit. Most people just take the stock air cleaner off and put the filet on the end of that. Doesn't make for a true CAI. You would have to either find a kit that you could use or have someone make one for you.

It might seem that way but it is ideal for a turbo to have a full 3" exhaust. It just lets it breath sooo much better. That is what I am going to do on my GTC project car.

[PWMAN]

Originally posted by Polygon


Spearco makes one but it is close to $2,000. It is what I am putting in the GTC project. Since water has better heat tranfer the air will be cooler. Ait to air is good and it costs a lot less as well. I just prefer air to water.

You would have to find a kit. Most people just take the stock air cleaner off and put the filet on the end of that. Doesn't make for a true CAI. You would have to either find a kit that you could use or have someone make one for you.

Yeah I think air/air is good enough for me. I don't forsee going past 14 PSI. Going past 14 PSI melts the stock pistons anyway.

Before the airbox, along side the fender there is a another box the air passes through with a bunch of wires connected to it - What is that and what will happen if I disconnect it to put the KN filter on? I think it's like the stock CAI kinda thing but it looks like it's some kinda air temp sensor. ???

[PWMAN]

Got another question, I'm planning on changing to a 180 thermostat. Will this help with the heat issue, by lowering the temp of the entire engine? It sure does get hot under that hood. I know the fan will still not kick on until 195, so it will technically ''overheat''(but not really, thats what it was originally) until the fan kicks on or I get moving again.
Putting this thermostat in won't crack the head will it? I mean, if it's up to about 200 and that cold water comes rushing in cooling the head down at a rapid rate. I know it's bad to have something cool down quickly, a vice versa heating up causes metal to crack. But will only 20 degrees do that? I thought it was only extreme changes in temp cracks things, but tell me if I'm wrong. I'm not in stopped traffic very often at all, but I'd like to know anyway. That ECU i'm going to get says ''revised fan schedule for better cooling'', does that means it will kick the fan on sooner? Cuz that would be great if it does. Thanks.

[Polygon]

As far as the air box goes, does the engine bay look like this?



And for the thermostat, it shouldn't be a problem. That water won't be cold when it comes rushing in. The difference in temperature isn't that much to cause a problem. I think it would be a good idea to have the fan kick on sooner. You don't want the engine to run too cold though, you want it running in the normal operating temperature, but 185 should be fine.

[PWMAN]

No my air box doesn't look like that. It's grey in color, and only has a pipe connected to the side of it - not in the front to get the cold air induction. If you hang on about 20 minutes I will go outside and take some pics, and post them. Be right back.

[PWMAN]

OK here we go. On the left is the airbox, to the right is the CAI box thingy I was talking about.

[PWMAN]

Yeah OK I didn't know it was going to turn out that huge of a picture. Oh well, heres a pic of my baby.

[PWMAN]

OK I made a custom intake from an Integra short ram. I hacked about 6 inches off so it would fit. It sounds good. I haven't really noticed any peformance gains, must only be a couple HP. I guess cuz it gets so hot under there. Well, maybe it will be a little better once I install the 180 thermostat. Next major mod is the exhaust. Actually, I need new CV's, axles, and struts. So that first before I break down and need towed. I'm actually thinking of getting those MOPAR motor mounts, they say that helps not breaking the axles, is this true.

BTW, I found out that that thing in the intake is called the ''power module''. IT controls a few things like the fan.

[Nykosis]

This is a solution that in computers we know and they have started to do this in cars. Find and use a copper headgasket. Copper is the cheapest and most effective way to transfer/displace heat. They may have them around for the 2.5/2.2l 4's in your car. I used to own a 2.5l dodge shadow ES. Here is the difference in the 2.2 and 2.5. The 2.2 has a shorter stroke thus it is more tuned for a preformer. The 2.5l has a higher torque curve cause it is a long stroke high torque engine that can and has been used in trucks too. IE: The dodge dakota 4cyl. That is the difference and it is all in the head for the models in either 87, 88, or 89 - 94 (can't remember first year put in) when chrysler went to the common block which worked with all heads. before that they had a 2.5 that had a tall block but same head as the 2.2l so remember early engines had different block. later engines had different heads. Me I have the mitsubishi engine SOHC right now in a dodge shadow ES 1994 I bought after I wrecked my 1992 dodge shadow ES 2.5l. The mitsubishi is the same bottom half that sits in both the 3000gt and the dodge stealth (the 6G72). My 5 speed transmission is the Getrag A543 and I want to find the Getrag A568 or A555 to see if it will match up to this engine considering both these transmission have sat in the same types of cars 4 cyl or v6. I need these either one of these transmissions for my project cause they are the only ones I can think that can handle what I am going to do. I am going to make my engine the same as the Mitsubishi 3000gt vr 4's, twin turbo! either that or I may go with the 3000gt's 6 speed transmission in recent years. but I'd rather have the getrag. I need some help locating this transmission. Can someone help?

Thanks

[PWMAN]

I've heard the 568 is much easier to shift, and shorter throws too. But it is a pain in the ass to install. The 555 is probably stronger, but I'm not positive about that. I just know that when someone gets into making serious power with the 2.2 or 2.5 turbo cars, they go with the 555. You can find them on EBAY every now and then, but the go for a lot of $$$. Otherwise, a 568 you might be able to find in a junkyard, it's a lot easier to find then a 555. I am waiting, very patiently, for a 555. I will only buy when a good opportunity comes up. IMO keep the Getrag, not the stealth tranny. Getrags were made for serious power, and it would take too much fabrication to put a stealth tranny in.

[Boostn]

You have whats commonly called the suck through intake design (early TI '84-'87). Meaning the turbo sucks air through the throttle body. As opposed to the blow through late TI and TII style. Where the turbo blows through the throttle body. To intercool the suck through design requires comstom modification of the intake. And even then is inferior because it flows less and stacks boost at 16 psi. Best to convert to the blow through design if you want to intercool.

There are only two turbo dodge heads used on these cars (not including DOHC). The G head 84-85 and the 782 86-up. The G head flows a little better, 6-7% i believe, therefore makes a little more power. The 782 however makes more torq. I say stick with the stock head and get a 88-up roller tbi cam and roller follwers. More agressive cam and much smoother than the slider cam.

14 psi is not a problem on a non-intercooled set up. Never had probs with my old suck through design. If you wanna be cheap, ditch the custom cal idea, and go for the manual boost controller instead(about $20). If you want boost past 14 psi, look into a water/alcohol injection setup. One can be made VERY cheap. Or the always better solution, convert to the newer style intake and intercool.

Your car also should have the A520. Basicly a A555 without the hardend gears. Get a chrome moly end plate and it will be plenty stout.

Enjoy your new found power,

Bob

[Polygon]

The A-568 is exactly the same as a A-555. It simply has a different shift pattern, shifter, and better syncros. They are both designed by Chrysler and built by Getrag of Germany. I am sticking with the A-568 for my GTC project. I might have an A-555 from my 89 GTC if you guys are interested.

Also the A-555 and A-568 were only used on the 2.2L and 2.5L never on the V6. Also don't waste you time with the twin turbo setup. The Stealth's twin turbo setup is flawed and twin turbos on a four cylinder would be very inefficient. Stick with a large single turbo like a T03/T04 hybrid.

[PWMAN]

Originally posted by Polygon
I might have an A-555 from my 89 GTC if you guys are interested.

How much do you want for it?
And are you willing to ship to PA? I don't know where you live, if not too far I could drive.

[Polygon]

I'm in Alpine Utah. It is between Provo and Salt Lake City. I have no problem shipping, you would just have to pay for it. I don't have the transaxle right now, but I plan to buy my engine from the salvage yard my 89 GTC is at. I just want to make someone wants the transaxle before I buy it back. I'll call them on Monday to see how much it will cost.

[91 shelby]

how much does an A555 tranny go for?