What extra Intrigue maintenance would you do at 100k miles?

[Scrapper]

i would also bleed all for calpers get junk out if it's not clear? also it will last longer on front brake line hoses from colapsing inside.

[sparcx]

Originally Posted by dizzle1

You need to check the fluid and see what color it is with a white napkin or paper, mine was light green. I changed it yesterday and now its all clear from reservoir to all 4 calipers. Turkey baste what you can out of the reservoir and top it off with new fluid. I started with the closest wheel FL/FR/RL/RR and proceeded till the furthest. Watch the reservoir as you flush out the old fluid don’t let it run dry keep filling it. The fluid will become clearer as you go and check it with a napkin.

yeah, my fluid is still pretty crude oil black.

Would you put any penetrating oil on the bleeder screws beforehand?

When i googled searched for some info, i see that people have broken bleeder screws before. That's the last thing i want to have happen as I'm not experienced enough yet to fix that level of a mess. heh

Thanks for the list of stuff, I might give it a go.

[dizzle1]

If you’re doing it for the first time make sure you break all the build up around the bleeder use a flathead and slightly rub around it with a wire brush if you can. I would use some lube too if its your first time doing it. I did all that before when I changed my pads and rotors. I have to say if you are worried about breaking the bleeder do all of this and use a 10mm socket over it with a ratchet that should hold it the best.

For some reason the bleeder on my FL caliper was a 9mm and the rest were 10mm so if I were you I’d make sure what the size is.

[sparcx]

Got around to putting in a new Autocraft Gold battery from Advance Auto Parts. It brought back a lot of memories on how much of a pain in the butt this battery is to install. At least this time the positive terminal of the battery didn't completely rip off and start leaking acid all over the place like the OEM battery did.

I've been going with the higher 770 cold cranking amps battery. The OEM battery only requires 690. It's a little more expensive, but I figure it's worth it considering how cold it gets here in Illinois.

Last battery was an Autocraft Titanium that lasted six years (now called Gold). Starting was getting sluggish in the recent cold weather. Had it tested and it was bad.

These old and new Autocraft batteries were both made by Johnson Controls which is a pretty reputable battery manufacturer. I believe Autozone Duralast batteries are also made by Johnson Controls.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by sparcx

yeah, my fluid is still pretty crude oil black.












Would you put any penetrating oil on the bleeder screws beforehand?

When i googled searched for some info, i see that people have broken bleeder screws before. That's the last thing i want to have happen as I'm not experienced enough yet to fix that level of a mess. heh

Thanks for the list of stuff, I might give it a go.

also if that don't work i take a brass hammer and smack them that will loosen threads inside calipers,wheel cylinders and if you smash them you could always buy 4 new bleeders.

[sparcx]

Originally Posted by sparcx

Got around to putting in a new Autocraft Gold battery from Advance Auto Parts.

car started up perfectly today in 17 degree weather. No longer sluggish. Glad i caught it before i got stranded somewhere.