Power door closes then opens back up... annoying

[dorlow]

No, I don't have the Haynes manual. I have alldata info, which has some stuff on the door.

[dorlow]

So, sorry for the duplicate post... but I posted another forum question with just where do I get a haynes manual for a 2006 Montana and no one seems to know. I've tried Pep boys, ebay, amazon.com, and just searching google. There isn't a haynes or chilton manual for a 2006 Montana. Any more suggestions?

[roadrunner2]

Dorlow,
On the manual....try your local library.

Most have shop repair manuals for different vehicles or at the very least have websites for you to look at.

[dorlow]

BlackBerry9630/4.7.1.40 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/104

[dorlow]

I was kind of wondering if anyone knows how to permanently disable the power door so it works as manual as the driver door? Even when you disable the power door with the switch, there's more resistance when closing it than the manual door has. I just think to get this door to work right,I need to simplify the way it works.
BlackBerry9630/4.7.1.40 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/104

[roadrunner2]

Originally Posted by dorlow

I was kind of wondering if anyone knows how to permanently disable the power door so it works as manual as the driver door? Even when you disable the power door with the switch, there's more resistance when closing it than the manual door has. I just think to get this door to work right,I need to simplify the way it works.
BlackBerry9630/4.7.1.40 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/104

I know that by switching the overhead power door override switch ON , manual opening and closing of the door is aided with power assist. When the override switch is OFF the door operates manually.

You could remove the cable and see.

dorlow,
If you haven't tried the reinitialization procedure yet, this MAY fix it.

I don't know if GM changed the power door operations when they brought out the Montana SV6.

This is from my Haynes (up to 2001) Olds Silhouette repair manual.

If you are not getting continuity at the overhead open/close switch fix that first.

Anytime power is lost to the power sliding door control module (battery discharged/disconnected or RADIO, PSD, PWR SEAT, B/U fuse blown or removed), the reinitialization procedure must be performed to ensure proper operation of the power sliding door.

Make sure the ignition key is in the LOCK position and the sliding door is fully closed, latched and unlocked.

Turn the sliding door lockout (overrride) switch OFF.

Remove the RADIO fuse from the UNDERHOOD fuse panel. Wait 30 seconds, then reinstall the fuse.

Wait 10 seconds, then switch the lockout (override) switch ON and open the door with the open/close switch.

Wait 5 seconds then close the door with the open/close switch.

Cycle the door open and closed 2 more times, allowing 5 seconds between each operation.

Finally, open the door and check to make sure the door is in the fully open position.

Close the door and check the operation of the door using the manual latches, inside and out.

I hope that helps.

[dorlow]

I don't know if anyone can offer more suggestions. We've been just living with the door messing up for the last many months. When we close the door, we just have to stand there and make sure it closes. If it opens back up, usually if we hit the button again, it closes.

Well, now the door is stuck shut. We can't get the door to open. I know it's a different problem to why the door won't close. The dealer says that problem is the actuator. The door is locked and they want to replace it. (This is what they told me a year ago or so.) But I just got to thinking I don't believe it's the actuator. The door won't open today because the lock is in the locked position and I can't get it to go unlocked. In the past, when this happens, I have to somehow get the door apart from the inside with the door closed, then loosen the door up a little and then shake it and get it to unlock. It's somehow binding and the actuator isn't strong enough to unlock it. But I can't get it to unlock just by moving it manually, so I doubt changing the actuator will fix it.

A few times in the past when we had this problem, if we'd drive the car, it would bounce the door around a little and free up whatever is messing it up and the door would start working again. It's not working today and it's still stuck shut and the door chimmer constantly chimes while I drive, which is really annoying.

I really don't want to take it to another shop. I know they're all fixing it to the book. The whole problem with the door is the design is flawed, so it can't be fixed by the book. Something in the basic design has to be changed. I don't know how I'm going to jimmy rig it yet, but I need to figure out something.

[dorlow]

Does anyone have one of these cars where the doors just work flawlessly? I try and buy american. Ticks me off when I see someone with their Japanese car and their door works fine and I had to buy american so I sit in the cold and mess around with my door for a half hour to get it to close.

[rkvons]

I have a '98 with the passenger side power door. It has been marginal throughout the years until recently. Now it does not work any more. When you hit the button, it just clicks. I don't know if I can fix it anymore. As far as comparing to other manufacturers, I would have to compare it to a '98. I don't see too many of those. I can't tell what year cars are anymore. They all look the same.

[dorlow]

Ok, the door messed up again today. I took apart the door further than I ever have. I finally found the problem. It's that stupid actuator in the top of the door that opens the door automatically. Sometimes it gets stuck in a position that causes the door to lock and not be able to unlock. If you force the actuator, then the door unlocks. I then saw when the actuator was too far back when it was closing and when it got all the way closed, it binded up and backed up. I then moved it by hand and it closed fine. So I guess I need a new one.

[dorlow]

Ok, an update... I bought the actuator for the door (the one that tells the door to open and not the lock one.) I think the door opening back up after closing is fixed now. But I still had it happen a few times where the door won't open because it stuck locked. I'm 99% sure the lock actuator needs to be replaced now. For now, I just unhooked it so the door will always be unlocked unless manually locked. I'll see if it's fixed for now. If it doesn't act up for a few weeks, I'll replace that one too and plug it back in.

[dorlow]

I need more ideas. I replaced the actuator for the door lock in the power door and it didn't fix anything with the door not opening. The door still gets stuck in the locked position and you need to manually unlock it. So, the previous actuator probably wasn't bad either. I don't know why about 50% of the time, the actuator doesn't work. I mean you hear it try to unlock the door but it doesn't. The only thing I can think of is the angle of the actuator to the door lock where it hooks to it is off. It's too much of an angle and it's binding and it doesn't have enough power to pull the door lock to unlock it. But I'm kind of iffy about messing with factory stuff and changing it to the way I think it should be... redrilling factory holes in different spots.

[Parker99]

Hi Dorlow, I just read what I've gone through for the last year with my Saturn Relay power sliding door in your posts. Unfortunately I have no answers at this point in time.
Mine will stay closed at times no matter what I do, when it decides to open it will do so while I'm driving or will just work normally one day.

Sometimes it will not stay closed, and I am stranded; unable to leave my van! I've noticed that when it opens it does not open as far as the other good working the door (the passenger side, rightside). Also the cable does appear looser on the dysfunctional side compared to the working side.

I've taken it in but it works fine everytime the service shop has it.

Keep me updated please. I plan on purchasing a Hanes Manual soon.

[qsecofr]

Hi Dorlow,
First, thank you so much for posting your progress with the door issue.

I bought a 2005 SV6 and it had 2 miles on it so I have driven it since it was brand new from the manufacturer.

About 2 years ago started having strange problems with the driver side PSD. Sometimes it just doesn't fully close but after retrying it will finally close.

Now it is starting to chime thinking the door is not closed but it really is. I hope it doesn't continue to have more problems but after reading your posts I am afraid my troubles have just begun. Reading through everything you posted has helped me understand all of the things to check.

Thanks again for your posts here. I truly appreciate it.

[dorlow]

So, ever since I replaced that last actuator, the door actually has been working really well. The only problem I'm having now is when the door closes, the motor usually runs for a few seconds after the door is closed. You can hear it straining trying to close it "thinking" it's not closed yet. I'm pretty sure there's programming that can be done to retrain the car to know where the door is open and where it is closed.