2000 5.7l Express won't start

[ggmurray]

RH,

I pulled the electrical boot off turned it over so I could get to the terminals and I used my DVOM. Here's how I hooked it up, I used a paper clip with a jumper wire clipped to it with one of my meter leads attached to it and the stuck it in side of the terminal and the other meter lead I clipped to the intake for a ground. What I got was milla Volts on one side of the terminal and the 11.9 volts on the other, which was the same for all of them, With the key on...had to order a noid light, couldn't find one anywhere in town today......also going to order an ignition tester too....so I know I have the correct amount of fire...

[ggmurray]

RH,

I gotta have a noid light right, In order to verify the power to the injector...

[ggmurray]

RH,

I'm building a pretty long thread on this, is it OK? 2 pages now

[rhandwor]

You will eventually find the problem just keep working. At lease you are willing to buy test equipment.

[ggmurray]

RH,

Stuff's on the way! This time the van's not going to the shop!!! Thanks so very much for all the help!!! You know the ole saying, if at first you don't suceed try, try again!!!

[rhandwor]

Heres some information for you.
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/feb97/techtips.htm
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.html Look at pictures mostly Ford but look at using a 12 volt test light as noid light.

[ggmurray]

RH,

Thanks for the info, The first article seemed alot like what I'm dealing with...they ended up finding some melted wires in the harness....but learned to check at the ECM first...That second one was good too, it seems that using starting fluid is a common way to check if it's a fuel or ignition problem, I was kinda worried about using the spray!!!

[rhandwor]

If your going into the harness buy a wiring diagram.
http://www.alldata.com/ sells a years subscription for $26.95
As it shows a picture of a plug by using a copper wire you can have somebody hold at computer terminal and you can check each injector plug. Then unplug one end and check to ground.
If your going to solder in a resister it will show what two wires to use. Then you have to retrain BCM. Radio shack has resisters or you can buy a new key switch from the dealer.

[ggmurray]

RH,

Niod lights will be here 10 am tomorrow on UPS, quick as I get my hands on them I'll test the injector plug

[ggmurray]

RH,

If I did jump time.....Pull #1 plug out and run it up TDC and check the line-up on the timing marks, or look to see if it's pointing at #1 on the dist. I'

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by ggmurray

RH,

If I did jump time.....Pull #1 plug out and run it up TDC and check the line-up on the timing marks, or look to see if it's pointing at #1 on the dist. I'

http://files.automotiveforums.com/ga...hp?photo=51302

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=881442

[rhandwor]

If you have a distributor roll it over by hand appx. 60 degrees beyond TDC then roll it back to zero. With the distributor cap off use whiteout and mark the distributor base where the tip of the rotor is then have somebody watch the rotor turn slowly until the rotor just starts to move. Look at the timing mark and if it moved over appx.20 degrees it can cause a no start.
I did edit a previous post if you don't have a distributor. Basically No.1 has to be in compression with both valves closed. Use a compression tester hose and stop when you feel air. Roll to TDC and make sure both valves are closed.
MT had good pictures for guidelines.
What your looking for is stretch in the timing chain.

[MT-2500]

As rhandwor posted is a good check.
Also a true timing chain time check when no one cylinder is TDC compression or right at the time it is going to and over TDC the valves on your opsite firing cylinder no 6 should be rocking.
One closing and one opening.
If not the timing chain is out of time.

[rhandwor]

Since your working on checking timing does this mean the noid light flashed as it should?

[ggmurray]

Hey MT and RH

Sorry for the delay...Here's the latest!....As you know I had the Noid lights comming UPS around 10am, and also an ignition tester too...so I had a little time before UPS ran so I decided to look try the starting fluid one more time, this time not just a shot in the TH Body but prop it open some and crank and spray to see what would happen...oh almost forgot I unplugged the fuel pump relay because I thought if the gas was contaminated it mess me up with the starting fluid, make sense to you guys? Anyway in a nut shell I got the same results.....Nothing....