Who can solve this???

[Airjer_]

If the pass lock is tripped it will disable the fuel injectors. I don't think we have a passlock issue. That pink wire is what supplies one of or the power(s) for the ICM, VCM, and PCM. If there is no power than there will be no spark, no injector pulse, and theoretically the PCM will not be grounding the fuel pump relay. Solve the issue with the wiring first and I am confident the vehicle will run!

[enook]

Originally Posted by Airjer_

If the pass lock is tripped it will disable the fuel injectors. I don't think we have a passlock issue. That pink wire is what supplies one of or the power(s) for the ICM, VCM, and PCM. If there is no power than there will be no spark, no injector pulse, and theoretically the PCM will not be grounding the fuel pump relay. Solve the issue with the wiring first and I am confident the vehicle will run!

Well I have installed a brand new ignition switch so that cant be it. You think that it is somewhere else that is causing this?

[Airjer_]

At this point you need to have somebody look at it that knows what they are doing! We are all well aware that you have replaced the ignition switch!!!! I never menioned anything about the ignition switch! You need to fix the wiring from the switch and whatever else has been spliced or tapped into. You will need to do some homework! You will need to use a multimeter to see where power is being lost, you will need to be able to properly repair a wire or wires. If you have not checked into where power is being lost or what does not have power than there is no point in going any further. You have enough information in the previous posts to start figuring out what is going on. If you are unable to do this than its time to seek help from somebody who can actually be there and understands automotive electricity!

Like I mentioned before If that other black box has wiring that doesn't look O.E. (and then I suggest posting some pics of that part) than it probably does not belong there and is likely the source of the problem!!!!!! Fix the wiring problem and the other problem will likely be corrected at the same time.

[enook]

Originally Posted by Airjer_

At this point you need to have somebody look at it that knows what they are doing! We are all well aware that you have replaced the ignition switch!!!! I never menioned anything about the ignition switch! You need to fix the wiring from the switch and whatever else has been spliced or tapped into. You will need to do some homework! You will need to use a multimeter to see where power is being lost, you will need to be able to properly repair a wire or wires. If you have not checked into where power is being lost or what does not have power than there is no point in going any further. You have enough information in the previous posts to start figuring out what is going on. If you are unable to do this than its time to seek help from somebody who can actually be there and understands automotive electricity!

Like I mentioned before If that other black box has wiring that doesn't look O.E. (and then I suggest posting some pics of that part) than it probably does not belong there and is likely the source of the problem!!!!!! Fix the wiring problem and the other problem will likely be corrected at the same time.

Ok, as stated in my very first post I live in Chesterfield Inlet, Nunavut, Canada, population 300. There are no dealers OR mechanics in town to work on this truck. If was as simple as getting someone who knows exactly what they were doing I would have done that day 1! I am not that cheap.

I will try and get the wires tested but I will have to do it myself. That is why i am asking for help from people like you. I know very little about this stuff but what other choice do I have?

Please people, do not get frustrated with me, I am just trying to solve this problem.

[Airjer_]

Thats fine and I understand your in the middle of no where but you have enough info on what needs to be checked and we need to see the results of what you have checked!

If you have a spliced pink wire with two black woires going to it than something should tell you that those black wires don't belong there! where do those black wires go? where's the other end of the pink wire? have you tried reconnecting the two halves of the pink wire together? When you find the source of the black wires you will find the source of your problem! removing it and putting the pieces back together will be your challenge.

[enook]

More pictures!


Those black/white wires, one end are wrapped up in a 'circle' like this.



The other end goes here?

Both ends are traced here and go into the mysterious black box:




Both ends are traced here and go into the mysterious black box




One end of those black wires that were spliced into the ignition switch and that include the black/white wires, go into the back of the black box



The second set of black wires coming out of that black box go up through the firewall on the top left of picture above. Also the ones that were spliced into the ignition switch have a fuse. The right side of the wire is the one coming from the ignition switch and the left side goes to the black box. The fuse is good.



This is the black box, nothing on it except what you see above.

[enook]

Also can someone tell me what that LED is just below rear hatch button? It will sometimes flash red.

[Airjer_]

Wher does this harness end up. It looks like it goes through the firewall?

[cadmonkey]

the red LED on the dash is an indicator for your aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system that tells you when its armed. Sometime people have wired a toggle switch into an aftermarket alarm system to disable it once inside the vehicle, try and find one under the dash area, anything that doenst look OEM (stock).

another thought, I once worked at a GMC dealer and had to bring a jimmy into the shop people used to have kill switches wired into strange places to prevent there car from being started even if it was broken into. This particular Jimmy had a pressure switch under the carpet you had to push down on the area with your foot and turn the key at the same time. Other people would wire them into the cruise control button or just hide a switch somewhere near the drivers seat or under the dash area.

I myself would be removing that alram system completely and returning all wiring to stock, but I understand this may not be in your skill level.

[cadmonkey]

oh yeah

another option and always my last thought....try to contact whoever you got the vehicle from and ask what teh heck they did and where are the key fob remotes?!?

you could do a title search and find out who owned the vehicle before you also.

[enook]

I think this box is called a 555L GM Passlock Interface Module. It is set up to install remote starters. If the vehicle doesn't start when all connections are made, the truck has entered a long tamper mode and I am supposed ot wait 10 minutes...but I've tried this and nothing.

Question: Can I uninstall this thing? ANyone know where the heck I can find the remote start?

[Airjer_]

I think your looking at the remote starter! If this was a "GM" factory installed item there would proper connections and proper mounting! None of which are present!!!!!!! Besides if the vehicles security system was enabled it would disengage the fuel injectors not the starter. In other words it should crank until the starter fails or the battery goes dead!

I think unwrapping all the black tape around all the wires for this "black box" to see where they go is a fantastic idea!!!!

[enook]

Originally Posted by Airjer_

I think your looking at the remote starter! If this was a "GM" factory installed item there would proper connections and proper mounting! None of which are present!!!!!!! Besides if the vehicles security system was enabled it would disengage the fuel injectors not the starter. In other words it should crank until the starter fails or the battery goes dead!

I think unwrapping all the black tape around all the wires for this "black box" to see where they go is a fantastic idea!!!!

When I unhook the black wires and connect the ignition switch like it is supposed to be the truck will crank but just wont start...like the security is activated.

I will get out and follow the wires to see where they go. I have yet to determine where those wires are going through the firewall.

The wires going through the firewall don't look factory to you?

[ponchonutty]

OK. Answer this... when you get the truck to crank but not start is the "security" light (not your aftermarket LED in the dash bezel) flash? You stated you swapped out the ignition switch right? Well, if you did swap that out and the PK2 light is flashing then you have to relearn the PK2 code. You have to crank it over but leave the ignition on for 11 minutes then do it again. If it doesn't start, do it once more. It may take over 30 minutes but you have to crank it over, not just leave it on.

You should take ALL the aftermarket stuff out especially since you have no fobs to even use it. Just trace the wires. Take the shroud off of the column. You should be able to trace those bypass wires to the PK2 system. The PK2 wires should be tiny 22 gauge wires that are yellow, orange/black, and white with the white one not tapped into.

[enook]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

OK. Answer this... when you get the truck to crank but not start is the "security" light (not your aftermarket LED in the dash bezel) flash? You stated you swapped out the ignition switch right? Well, if you did swap that out and the PK2 light is flashing then you have to relearn the PK2 code. You have to crank it over but leave the ignition on for 11 minutes then do it again. If it doesn't start, do it once more. It may take over 30 minutes but you have to crank it over, not just leave it on.

You should take ALL the aftermarket stuff out especially since you have no fobs to even use it. Just trace the wires. Take the shroud off of the column. You should be able to trace those bypass wires to the PK2 system. The PK2 wires should be tiny 22 gauge wires that are yellow, orange/black, and white with the white one not tapped into.

Just checked the truck. Put the key in, turned it over but NO flashing security light.

I do remember seeing the security light flashing all the time though when the 'old' wires were hooked up. But the truck would not even crank then.

Anyone think that I need a new fuel pump? That's what people here are saying.