Cylinder Valve Job :)

[Johnny Mullet]

Hello 94metroxfi and the rest of the crew here. I recently purchased a 1998 Metro with 133,000 miles on it and a dead cylinder. DOCTORBILL's thread is very informative! I will also be taking on this project on my Metro. All parts (labor is mine) is still way less than 2 weeks worth of fillups on my 1995 Chevy 4X4.

I am going to rebuild the head myself. Seems like the exhaust valves are a common issue along with clogged EGR port.

[94metroxfi]

Yes they are.

Good luck on this adventure. Take your time and pay close attention to details.

If you have any questiosn never be afraid to ask

[94metroxfi]

Well not good. Everything is together... started it up and she smokes like crazy.

[91Caprice9c1]

Don't be discouraged if it's just some smoking for the initial start and run about. How long have you run it? Taken it for a few trips around the block?

-MechanicMatt

[94metroxfi]

Hey!


Yeah, I took it around the block 2 times, and let it run about 30 mins. It seems more whitish than bluw but yet a blue hint. I retorqued the head to 54 lb. ohh well 450.00 usd down the drain

[DOCTORBILL]

Let it run gently for 100 miles and then see.

It has to seat the rings and wear the cylinders in after you honed the cylinder walls.

Isn't that the correct jargon, folks?

Change the oil and filter at 100 miles - metal particles from the wearing in.

Don't give up....!

DoctorBill

[spy1309]

Don t rush to the wrong conclusions, maby is something you missed, now we are not able to see how good of a job you did honing the cylinders, but it will take around 500 miles for the piston rings to seats also for the new valves so wait a little bit before jumping into the wrong conclusions.
Try to backtrack and make sure you did't forget nothing, like not installing a new PCV valve.
Try to get a new compression reading of the cylinders, it should be higher than the one you had before the job.

[Twidget]

What spy1309 said.

Did you measure the bore and pistons? Did you check bore taper while you were in there? Just because there was no ridge, doesn't mean the bore was in tolerance to your pistons.

What oil did you put in there for break-in? Use regular Dinosaur oil for ring break in. Synthetics and additives should be avoided during this period.

Assembly lube can plug up the oil filter. Replace the oil filter right away. If the bypass fails, a plugged filter can starve the engine for oil rather quickly. Junk filters abound out there, and often have big brand names on them. Napa Gold is a Wix filter. It's one of the best. You can get them elsewhere under the Wix name.

I've seen people take perfectly good engines out because of a $3 PCV valve. Slap a new one in there before you do anything else!

Twidget

[metro_roy]

94metroxfi:

Hey it started up! That's a good thing. Did the shop that did your head work put in new valve seals for you? Take the air filter out and look into the housing. Is there a lot of oil pooled up in there?

[94metroxfi]

Yes, they did the seals. I measured everything and it was all within specs. I am thinking I am leaking some water/antifreeze someplace. so I will need to go look for this leak.

[91Caprice9c1]

Does it smoke at idle? Does it smoke only going down the road? Was the oil restricter put back into the block before the head went on? Compression test is a real good idea.

-MechanicMatt

[94metroxfi]

Well after about 20 miles, the smoke seems to be going away. I think my town hated me at first. But It seems to have slowed way down. I think in another 50 miles or so, it will stop completly!

[Diesel nut]

What did the smoke smell like? Sometimes you can tell whether its coolant or oil burning buy the smell, at least I can anyway.

[DOCTORBILL]

When you honed the cylinder walls, you made them rough - oil can get by the rings
while they are still rough and go up into the combustion chamber.

Once the roughness in the cylinder walls wears smooth (apparently rather quickly!)
then the rings will seal off the oil and then - no smoke, high compression,
good combustion, high mpg's.

Have faith!

You now have a Damned Good Engine that may go another 200,000 miles.

That metal wearing off the cylinder walls while they become smooooth....
is now in your oil filter and the oil itself.

Thus the Oil and filter change at 100 miles.

A compression check right now may show 'not so great' and after a 100 miles
'very good' due to the wearing in of the cylinder walls.

Don't stress the engine for maybe 500 miles while the rings wear the cylinder walls
smooth and they match up. "Breaking the engine in"

I think you did it. You made it.

Now you are a "Metroglodyte !" Enjoy driving past the gas stations...!

DoctorBill

[94metroxfi]

I hope your right Dr. B.

Thank you very much. I hope I can help out in this forum as much as everyone has helped me.