Just purchased 91 CRX DX need some advice!!

[mwile2k5]

SO if I get another injector from a 92-95 then I wont need the resisitor box? So all I need then is the dizzy and the ecu correct? Which two wires on the TPS will I have to switch?

Originally Posted by Dr0pZ0n3

dizzy for the CPS, injectors, resistor (if applicable), pretty sure that's it, have to swap the two outer wires on the TPS tho.

And yes, they're all 240cc.

Except DSM blacktop (?) they're 450.

I use the DSM orange/pink top 240-260's b/c they're dual spray, and the fuel hits the valve caps rather than being sprayed into the intake stream.

[Christ]

The TPS wires are the two on the outside of the plug... there are three in a line, change the left and right ones with each other as you're looking at it.. you really can't screw this up.

You'll need to change the pinouts of two wires at the ECU for the injectors, to run 4 instead of 2, and you'll need to wire in some extra pinouts for the Cylinder Position Sensor, which is part of the MPFI system, and tells each injector when to fire. Easiest way to do this is to keep the plug off your DPFI dizzy, depin all the wires from it, and one by one, put the wires from your MPFI dizzy into it, so they match up with the ones that were already there. You will have two extra wires, these two, you need to find a two pin plug, so you can mount them, and another plug that you can run down to the ECU that will match it.

So, what you should end up with is a dizzy with several wires in one plug, and 2 in another, and a plug that matches the 2pin that you can blend into your chassis harness, with pigtails on it. (wire ends)

Yes, if you get another 92-95 injector, you won't have to wire in a resistor box, but the wiring becomes somewhat different... you'll have to figure out the injector wiring from a walkthrough, and just omit the part about the injector resistor box.

Keep in mind, that if you come across one, even from an accord, (older model) you can/should use it, even if you're using saturated injectors.. it won't hurt them, it will just make it so they won't pump quite as much fuel, since they will never peak. Believe me, You'll still never run lean, at least not if you're not touching anything else on the motor yet.

The ECU you want is PM6, that will keep you OBD-0. There are a few alternatives that you could use, but some don't work correctly, others will require some rewiring, and still won't work correctly, etc.

If you're not running Vtec, it's not smart to use a Vtec ECU... some guys say it's still better b/c the ignition/fuel maps change at the Vtec event, and "when that happens, I can smoke anything" sorry guys, the only smoking you're doing is the unburnt fuel and carbon exiting your exhaust pipe.

If you \DO\ have Vtec, (if foosh finds you a Y8 or Z6) run the Vtec ECU, and if you wanna play w/ the Vtec system then, add a Vtec controller, or chip the ECU and get Crome or Hondata to reprogram the curves.

[mwile2k5]

Cool man thanks for all the great advice/info!

[FrodoGT]

If you dont remove vtec through programming itll throw a code anyway..

[Christ]

yep... can't remember the code number.. but there is no point in using the Vtec ECU unless you have Vtec.. I was just making mention of having Vtec w/o the ECU to handle it... you'd need to use a RPM switch or something.

[mwile2k5]

OK...now Im running into trouble that is piss' me off.. The other day I installed my stereoand I think I may have ran my remote wire to my 12v constant. Therefore that leaves my amp running constantly, unless I unhook it from the batt. So I had to jump the car to get it started. It ran for a while and was good. Then I later that night I went to start it again, same thing had to jump the battery again. AFter I did that I drove it around a little so it would have time for the battery to get some juice flowing etc. This morning I go out to start it and the same damn thing is wrong except Im getting all lights on in car including the radio is on but nothing else the car wont turn over? Any help here? Thanks a lot!

[FrodoGT]

Well it sounds like you've killed your battery. Its got no punch, and if its not totally shot then your only chance is to do a slow trickle charge. And for christ sake unhook the amp. There is a way to check for parasitic drain on the battery. I know the info is in the forum but im about to head to work.

[mwile2k5]

Yea the amp, has been unhooked and hooked to a switch by now. Im just pissed, cause I had a battery charger for the longest time and last summer it died, and threw it out. Cause the battery is fairly new on the car...

[Mammlouk]

For parasitic drain disconnect the ground(negative) wire from the battery, then connect a multimeter between the Negative post and the frame (preferably using alligator clips) With your multimeter set to mA you shouldn't read more than 25 mA being drawn. I've seen anywhere from 25-50 listed as the level to watch for online, so maybe some cars pull more. I know for my 88 Civic HB STD it pulls about 7 mA .