Pro Black-washing????

[Diesel2NR]

If I'm understanding you right, you're trying to make the transmission look dirty and greasy, right? For that, I'd get some black pastels and grind it up. Then I mix that with some alcohol and brush it on. Then, try not to handle it, as it will rub off. You can also dust it on with a brush and without the alcohol. Both ways will work. I use this with my military models.

Edit: and I like that avatar fullblood. VERY nice

[fullbloodchop01]

yea i like my avatar also, but im not trying to get the engine to look dit, what im trying to do is acent shadows on parts of a vehicle,(suspension, engine) like litle spaces tha should be shaded in to give it that authentic look

[Diesel2NR]

Sorry man. I can't help ya with that.

[hirofkd]

I see what you mean.
Well, coat the part with sliver, with enough thickness.
After it's completely dry, apply thinned black to cover the entire part.
Then, shortly after, moisten a cloth or cotton swab with water or thinner, and rub the surface. The paint remains, where you can't reach.
Or, moisten a wide and flat brush with thinner, and gently rub the surface to dissolve the black to reviled the underlining color.
Water base acrylic shouldn't be water soluble, after it's completely dry, so this should work. I don't know about using alcohol though. It might be too hot (strong) for this task.

[fullbloodchop01]

thanks man, now thats what i needed to help
PS how the ITR turbo kit?let me know

[daggerlee]

MR Mario, probably at LEAST a week. You want your acrylics to form some strong crosslinks before you clearcoat.

[Mr Mario]

Originally posted by daggerlee
MR Mario, probably at LEAST a week. You want your acrylics to form some strong crosslinks before you clearcoat.

I took your advice and purchased some tamiya and testors lacquer clear coat and asked the guys at my local Hobby Shop and they said
"DON'T SPRAY lacquer clear coat on acrylic or else it will crack and eat away and look like crap"

I was like really.....Don't get me wrong and I mean not to shoot down your help but is this guy blowing air out of his arse or what? I rarley post but I on this board..but I'm on it everyday and respect everyone's opinion.
So can set the record straight....I'm kinda ...well not sure about it. And if you are right hooo saves a trip to my local hobby shop.

Thanks:silly2:

[hirofkd]

He's probably telling you a truth, and so are the people on the forum. There're many acrylic paints, so each responds to clear coat differently.
Mr. Color and Tamiya spray synthetic lacquer acrylics are very strong, and they don't crack.
Mr. Hobby Color and Tamiya acrylics are water soluble and it might crack. Or more specifically, solvent of clear coat will dissolve the paint, reveal the primer and screw up the finish.
I never had a paint being cracked by clear coat. (strange...)
The rule of thumb is to use clear, which is incompatible with the body color, and that's the safest way.
Another way is to spray very light coat for the first 3 coats or so. It has to be extremely light; almost like letting a body go through a mist of clear. That way, solution evaporates before it start attacking the body paint, and after 3 layers or so, body color is coated with clear, and you are ready for more wet and thick coat.
When I'm in doubt, I experiment. Perhaps, that's what you might want to, and you can share the result in the forum.

[daggerlee]

hiro's advice is sound. Basically, what your hobby guy is trying to tell you, is that the solvent in lacquer clear coats is very strong, and could melt the acrylic finish IF you're not careful. The way us modelers get around it is to spray the first 3-5 coats VERY lightly, from a farther distance than you would normally spray a coat. The idea is like hiro said, is for the solvent to evaporate quickly so that it doesn't have too much time to cause serious damage to the paint. Even then, it's tricky, so that's why you need to let your paint be nice and cured before you try it.

Once the initial "barrier" coat of clear is on, you can start spraying on slightly heaver coats until you get to your wetcoats. That barrier of clear you misted on in the first 3-5 coats protects the acrylic paint from the solvent of the later coats. I can't give you a good guideline on how many coats you should use, I think you could try asking jay, who used this technique on his S2000 which was painted in custom mix of Tamiya acrylics and clearcoated in TS13.

[Jay!]

You can ask me all you want, but daggerlee just said everything that I would on the matter...

[Mr Mario]

Great thanks for all your guys help "hirofkd & daggerlee" and anyone else.

I'll try that and if it screws up oh well...I can always strip it. I'll first try it on a cheap AMT kit I bought today or maybe I'll feel brave and try it on my Tamiya kits in progress. . I'll let you guys know how it turns out.