Tamiya Acrylic for body

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by jmwallac

According to the can, you should wait 10 minutes between coats and all coats (inlcuding clear) have to be applied within 1 hour. This is an acrylic enamel not an acrylic lacquer. I'm not trying to be difficult; I'm just wondering why you do it this way when the manufacturer recommends a different way. Then again, I seem to be the one stripping bodies 3-4 times....

I hear you about the can instructions. To be honest, enamel is not a medium I use. Apparently if too much time is allowed between coats, the coats dry seperately, not as one. But having to spray all at once is asking for trouble. If a flaw comes up, you're backed into a corner. I would strongly recommend switching to another paint- if you're going to use spray cans, Tamiya TS is too good a product not to use. The results, and the preservation of the remnants of your sanity, are worth it.

Originally Posted by jmwallac

I've done that in the past, but the consensus seems to be that it looks more realistic to apply decals over the clear. I'm also working on the 2000 D2 DTM car at the same time and would hate to screw those decals up. The Tamiya decals polish up nice. I'll try it this time as these decals are cheaply made.

There seem to be alot of people who swear up and down that the correct way to do decals on motorsports cars is not to clearcoat them. Something about the graffics on many full size cars are themselves similar to decals, and the visible edges make them look more realistic, blah blah blah. (Is this the consensus you're speaking of?) Problem is, I've never seen a body done this way that actually looks good . The printed carrier edges of decals always look to me like just what they are- printed edges of carrier film.

The more complicated a decal scheme is, the more inclined I am to protect them. I certainly never would polish directly on decals. Often the printed ink is covered by the thinnest layer of protector possible- rub that away and you attack the actual marking. Granted laquer clearcoats must be applied extremely carefully- but when done right, the results are more than worth it.

And if you just can't live without the transparent edge effect on your motorsports graffics, try putting them on after the clearcoating. Clear decal film is easily availible, in do-it-yourself decal sheets. Cut the shapes you need out of it, and apply them over the clearcoated decals. A well cut edge will look much better and more realistic than the printed edges on markings.

[jmwallac]

That is exactly what I was talking about regarding decals. I'm just terrified of f'ing them up with clear. The microsol seems to make them more resistant to the clear though. Will give it a shot.

[MPWR]

Yeah, TS13 has a well deserved reputation of being a very 'hot' clearcoat- that is, containing strong solvants- but many laquer clearcoats share this trait. Applied fast and heavy, it certainly will eat decals or paint it's applied over. But applied correctly it isn't a problem. It must be sprayed on in slow, light coats, and leave plenty of outgassing time (1-2 hours) in between coats. The first few coats are especially critical- you must slowly build up a base barrier by lightly dust coating for the first three or four applications. Use the warm water trick to get the paint to flow extra smooth. When this base is applied, you can move up to medium mistcoats. Slowly build it up deep enough to polish. If it goes on well, you should be able to take care of any leftover texture by polishing with Tamiya course compound. But skip the wetcoats, especially over decals- it's asking for trouble.