Eighties Contest Entry: BMW 635CSi

[ulap1]

You have done a great job with these decals. I have this kit and the version made by Fujimi. Comparing both kits and decals I found out the Tamiya decals are printed without the thin red lines (maybe dotted on original car) that create the grid (similar to the grid on your cutting mat). In one of the picture posted above this grid on real car is visible. Fujimi decals are printed corectly, on the other hand Fujimi decals are much thicker compared to Tamiya ones. Fujimi even released this kit as limited edition with much better decals printed by Cartograph, but it is sold out

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by ulap1

You have done a great job with these decals. I have this kit and the version made by Fujimi. Comparing both kits and decals I found out the Tamiya decals are printed without the thin red lines (maybe dotted on original car) that create the grid (similar to the grid on your cutting mat). In one of the picture posted above this grid on real car is visible. Fujimi decals are printed corectly, on the other hand Fujimi decals are much thicker compared to Tamiya ones. Fujimi even released this kit as limited edition with much better decals printed by Cartograph, but it is sold out

Yeah, I know the grid you're talking of. It's so fine on the real car, I've never really been sure if it was intended to be a real part of the scheme, or if it was just as an aid to align the graphics on the car. Either way, in 1/24 it would be virtually invisible- really just an artistic decision on the part of the decal artist whether or not to include it. I honestly don't miss it, I think to have it visible at all would practially overdo it.

Welcome to AF!

BTW, is Prague really in Denmark?

[ulap1]

I wish it would .

I think the grid is indeed a part of color scheme. Probably it should look like technological drawing where the grid show the scale and size of parts. Of course, in 1/24 scale the grid is almost invisible, but if you can see it on pictures of real car, I think it should be on the model, too. That´s why I wanted to get the Cartograph decals version of Fujimi kit.
Anyway, your model is great with or without thin red lines, I´m looking forward to see in completed soon

[mikemechanic]

I have been using a warmer like that for about 2 years now. Mine is actually a candle warmer, for getting the smell of the candle without lighting it, but same idea and works great. Good job on your build so far. I have this same kit to build yet so I will be watching.

[freakmech]

Awesome a coffee cup warmer!!!! Do you know how many trips ive made to the kitchen to get fresh warm decal water? Or heating up the pot of water on the stove on big paint nights??? you have just relieved me of so much exercise that i should gain 20 pounds by the end of the summer. Thank you so much for the idea, ive been trying to figure out how to keep things warm in my new shop. The winter was easy, set it on the space heater but this my friend is a god sent!!!!

[nugundam93]

the coffee cup warmer sure was a clever idea

[Risko]

Originally Posted by snk33y

Simply awesome! well done mate.

Agree!

[Shunter]

Very nice start....great old kit this one.

[malscar]

Coming along beautifully. It is almost a shame to put the door numbers and sponsors on now.

[MPWR]

OK, so now that the body is underway, time to turn some attention to the engine and chassis. I've got a long way to go if I have any hope of finishing on time!

First, I'll start on the strut tower bar. This is one of the only modifications to the chassis part that I need to make before painting it.

The kit of course comes with a strut tower bar- but it's molded in a single part, which means the mounting points are not particularly well detailed. As the bar is going to be on the very top of the engine bay and very visible, I decided it needs some work. I'll replace it with tubing, but the mounts need to be scatchbuilt. So, to copy the shape of the mounting flanges, I used a piece of Tamiya tape and a pencil to trace the edges of the kit part.



Then the tape is removed and stuck on to some styrene sheet of a suitable thickness, to be cut out.



Here's the kit part and four new flanges ready for the chassis.



And the new flanges in place.



There, all painted up. Ready to recieve the powerplant!



I'm sure some of you are wondering about my decalling adventures. They're finally done! Went on as well as the first set, and I've clearcoated them with X22. Haven't had much chance to photograph them yet (at least not to any standard I'm happy with), but here's a taste of things to come.



Weekend's not quite over (Memorial Day holiday in the US), so maybe I'll still manage some more progress yet....

[klutz_100]

Flawless body shell

[mickbench]

Nice work so far... I thought at first the decals had yellowed.. But I think thats how they are meant to look..

[gionc]

MMhhhh: fantastic! Good to see all this job far from the 360

[Shunter]

Very nice work, the decals look fantastic. Nice work so far.

[MPWR]

On to the engine!



Here it is, Tamiya's rendition of the fabulous Big Six- BMW's classic M30 powerplant. This was the longest produced engine in BMW's history (almost 20 years), and appeared in a number of different cars, with different displacements. It was also the base for the M88, which was used in the first generation of M cars (the M1, M5, and M6). It was a hugely reliable engine, which made it perfect for endurance racing among other things. In the 635, it was of course used in it's largest displacement, 3.5 litres. (OK, we're done with the history lesson. )

The kit parts are of course very nicely detailed, but as always it can benefit from some work. I wasn't thrilled by the distributor- it's the blocky thing at the end of the cam shaft. The shape is correct, but mounted as it is it would be impossible to wire.



So, I had it off with one of CM's PE saw blades. I also made a replacement to the same dimensions, but drilled it out for plug wires (seven holes- six for the plugs, and one for the coil).



And here it is painted and washed. The Schnitzer decal on the valve cover is really tough to see- not enough contrast between the white decal and aluminum valve cover. Furthermore it will get mostly covered by the intake assembly. But it's there if you know to look for it.



Just needs some detailing now. (Notice the 3.2/3.5 engraved on the intake manifold? This intake was used on both the 3.2 and 3.5 L models of the engine.)

And speaking of deatiling, something had to be done about the accesory drive belt. The kit part is standard faire- molded in one part, and it commits that most heinous of sins- the miraculous free floating alternator, suspended by the drive belt! I hate free floating alternators. So, to the machine bench!



The kit part (notice the heinous alternator?), and some machined alternatives. The belt driveshaft pulley, the water pump pulley, and some parts for the new improved non-heinous alternator.



And finally, the new and improved non-heinous model alternator, put together. I'm using a center brass rod to keep everything in place. Just needs paint now.

Until next time...!