BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix) - Page 3

BlazerLT · #31 11-01-2006, 09:49 PM

One thing I just noticed is that he has twin pisont calipers.

Mine on my 1995 are single.

redwheeler · #32 11-01-2006, 10:06 PM

hmm not to sure about that one i honestly never tryed that any time i did lower bushings i just unloaded the tbars right away

redwheeler · #33 11-01-2006, 10:08 PM

there is alot of stored energy there and it might be safer to just unload them to do bushings

car_guy_88 · #34 03-20-2007, 07:01 PM

Help!...im trying to take the front drive shafts out of the hub, and i cant get it to slide off the splines. I have hit it with a punch as shown in the picture, and no luck at all. Am i supposed to unbolt something else?? i've done all the work just as the pictures have shown, but my shaft will not slide out so i can gain access to the lower ball joint. I wasnt going to remove it, until i realized theres no room to pull the old joint out and put the new one in. Any help would be great!..thanks

JoulesWinfield · #35 03-20-2007, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by car_guy_88

Help!...im trying to take the front drive shafts out of the hub, and i cant get it to slide off the splines. I have hit it with a punch as shown in the picture, and no luck at all. Am i supposed to unbolt something else?? i've done all the work just as the pictures have shown, but my shaft will not slide out so i can gain access to the lower ball joint. I wasnt going to remove it, until i realized theres no room to pull the old joint out and put the new one in. Any help would be great!..thanks

Get a Bigger Hammer.

Really if you are afraid to use a real hammer you could heat it up a little. But watch where you put that heat you dont want to damage a CV boot.

car_guy_88 · #36 03-20-2007, 07:22 PM

yea i was gonna try heat soon, just gotta get a propane torch. Anyway, yea i've put a LOT of pressure on it, because i tried to use a puller, and i just dont wanna have somethin break. Anyway, if you think a bigger hammer and some heat will work, then i'll give it a shot. thanks!

muzzy1maniac · #37 03-20-2007, 09:27 PM

A 3 jaw puller works well too. Provides pressure while you wack the crap out of it with the hammer. And yes, a bigger hammer = better results. I use a 3# sledge.

FantasticChadwick · #38 03-21-2007, 10:35 PM

When I did mine I started with a punch. It did all of nothing what-so-ever so I ditched the punch and started pounding the axles directly with the hammer. I was very careful to hit it straight on and not miss and hit the threads. I also watched closely between hits to be sure the end of the axle was not mushrooming. They did fine and that's what finaly got the axles out.

I used a pretty decent size mini hand sledge. not sure of the weight, but it's the typical Estwing hand sledge you can get at Home Depot. It worked phenominaly well for the axles and for knocking the rivets out of the balljoints (in that application I drilled the rivets being sure not to screw up the holes in the control arms, then I used the hammer to pound a punch to knock the rivets out)

FantasticChadwick · #39 03-21-2007, 10:38 PM

Oh, also I wrapped several layers of electrical tape around the threads on the axle so if it was hit or rubbed on somethign or bumped somethign there was a much smaller chance of compromising those threads. I have no idea how durable those threads are - it just seemed like a good idea to me.

JoulesWinfield · #40 03-22-2007, 05:57 AM

If you had a peice of scrap metal you could put that up aginst the axle and hit that. The big thing is you dont want to take more than a couple of hits to break it loose or you will start to mushroom it out.

Anyways I forgot to say nice thread!

The only thing I disagree with is buying parts at Autozone.
Those a$$clowns always give me the wrong part and I have to drive back all greasy to get the proper ones.

skyzend · #41 03-22-2007, 04:09 PM

My 2 cents worth.

I can't see how electrical tape would help saving the threads. You need to hit the axel with lots of force to do the job. For those into a few love taps to free this axel it will take a lot more than that. Full swings with a hand sledge will likely take 3-4 wacks to get it to free up. Don't be gentle!!!

I agree with the sledge as that is what i used. If you are worried about missing and hitting the threads ... they are hardened and it will take a lot to damage them. In any case, if you are still worried, try spinning on the axel nut just beyond the end of the axel. Once things are free the nut should spin off and straighten any slight ding on the way. I tried not to but I dinged the threads a couple times and no damage.

Also to get ball joint rivets off I tried the chisel method and it is not that great if you don't have an air chisel. Drilling is just a pain too. I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel to notch the rivets first. They slice off much easier with a newly sharpened chisel this way. Try a notch right across the top like a standard screw. Chiseling from the side will peel the rivet top right off. If it bends up allong the notch, hammer it back down and it will break off.
Clean up the top by grinding it flush and then a punch will tap the rivet out with no mess or fuss. I hate fuss.

Good luck .. left side done. Right side this weekend.

comp · #42 03-31-2007, 07:34 AM

good thread

old_master · #43 04-01-2007, 08:45 AM

To save yourself a headache, coat the splines of the outer CV joint with anti seize when reassembling. Literally one tap with a mallet is all it takes to separate the axle from the hub next time!

swusa · #44 05-09-2007, 06:59 PM

EXCELLENT POST

I too, have spent a day and half trying to remove lower ball joint on '98 Jimmy 4WD the way the service manual says.....

I finally did manage to get it out, but only because it was broken and I could remove the rubber and some metal from it for extra clearance.

But now there is NO WAY to get a new one in there, Or to mount the top of it first to the control arm and then install the cast steering knuckle over the ball joints stud.. Its just impossible going by the service manual instructions.

Tomorrow I will remove everything your way....sometimes the long way is the shortest. Thanks again.

ajkolar · #45 06-22-2007, 10:17 PM

I started this project and have everything taken apart to the hub assembly. I am know try to "tap" the drive shaft out of the hub assembly. The threaded drive shaft will not budge a milimeter. I started with a punch as suggested, then went to the 2" x 4", and after beating the 2" x 4" to splinters (literally) the drive shaft has not moved at all. Is there anything I could have missed? I have removed everything (including the ABS sensor and the 3 hub assembly bolts). how far should it slide back??? Until the threads have gone completely through the hub assembly? And even after removing the hub assembly bolts it does not seem to move at all either. I though even though the drive shaft was still in place I might see a little movement. PLEASE HELP!!

Can the ball joints be replaced with out removing the hub assembly, or is it pretty much impossible? Thanks!

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