1980 Z-28 Help!!!!!!

[Elizabeth Ann]

seems to drag thru all gears, but you can feel the power wants to go, barks in 1st and 2nd without even trying, lol

[wrightz28]

Well, now that any physical resistance is pretty much eliminated form the picture, it's got to be a delivery issue, be it spark or fuel. What promted the carb replacement, this problem?

Anyways, the two big culprets from either system that may cause this;

Spark = weak coil

fuel = fuel pump (I would have replaced with the new carb anyways, under $20 cheap insurance, moving part that is guarenteed to fail at some point.)

The picture thing, i don't know, you have to "host" them elsewehre then link to them or something.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

Well, now that any physical resistance is pretty much eliminated form the picture, it's got to be a delivery issue, be it spark or fuel. What promted the carb replacement, this problem?

Anyways, the two big culprets from either system that may cause this;

Spark = weak coil

fuel = fuel pump (I would have replaced with the new carb anyways, under $20 cheap insurance, moving part that is guarenteed to fail at some point.)

The picture thing, i don't know, you have to "host" them elsewehre then link to them or something.

question, me and this mechanic worked on it did the plugs, wires and cap, he broke my coil then, so I later got the coil and rotor button, everything there is new, he had all the wires off, what would happen/result in them being wrong now? I replaced the fuel pump a few years ago, should I do it again?

Need the timing light that checks the tach, hence she is going to the damn mechanic thurs, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaa I give up!!

Host? Do what?

[wrightz28]

You've gotta be kidding, all this time, you nelgected to mention that wires might be crossed

That could explain a little. How in hell did he manage to break a coil? Yeah, it's possible that if the wires are crossed, there you go.

I take it the timing set procedure requires the engine be at a certain rpm (1500 or K, something like that)? You can play it be ear, but maybe it's best to have someone do it, and hopefully not the same "mechanic".

[Elizabeth Ann]

So sorry, didn't think that the car would start on a click of the key if the wires weren't correct, but have had this problem before wires were taken off the car, the last time we checked the timing it was really high, but tried to adjust it and the car stalled, will ask the mechanic about this when I drop it off on thurs. He broke the red wire and rigged it, when I replaced it both wires were fried and the rotor button black with buildup.

Originally Posted by wrightz28

You've gotta be kidding, all this time, you nelgected to mention that wires might be crossed

That could explain a little. How in hell did he manage to break a coil? Yeah, it's possible that if the wires are crossed, there you go.

I take it the timing set procedure requires the engine be at a certain rpm (1500 or K, something like that)? You can play it be ear, but maybe it's best to have someone do it, and hopefully not the same "mechanic".

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

full tune-up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, coil, etc, any more ideas? please?

backing up here, when was thos done? before or after the problem started?

[Elizabeth Ann]

Originally Posted by wrightz28

backing up here, when was thos done? before or after the problem started?

The car has been like this for about 8 months, I thought the tune-up would fix the problem, it didn't but it did help, she runs better now than she has in a long time, will find out tomorrow hopefully what it is, watch it be something really simple, Hell no not the same mechanic, although he is calling now telling me to bring her back, only when hell freezes over will that happen, he now knows that he has lost a friend as well as excellent client, should make him give me the money back for the so called brake job!!!

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

, will find out tomorrow hopefully what it is, watch it be something really simple,

Really sounding that way.

Since he messed up one coil wire it sounds as if he messed up the tach feed off the other side which could explain the 'inaccurate' reading you have.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Not really sure that the tach is not reading correctly, I can feel the pull on the motor and hear it winding out, but you are right it could be lose, will mention to mechanic tomorrow, and tyvm for the help

[Elizabeth Ann]

UPDATE!!!, So far the mechanic has found out that when bad mechanic took out distributor he didn't put it back right and now things are loose under the cap, and a few other small things which this new mechanic says were all done on purpose by someone, grrrrrrrrrrrrr, wish me luck, we're at $200 now

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

Not really sure that the tach is not reading correctly, I can feel the pull on the motor and hear it winding out, but you are right it could be lose, will mention to mechanic tomorrow, and tyvm for the help

[wrightz28]

Ah hah! Checking the the timing, there ya go

Yeah the old guy sounds like a real twit. progress is good, but some of this could have been avoided O-well, we did find some other issues that needed attention anyway.

[Elizabeth Ann]

It was the distributor itself that needed fixed, and he will set the timing after that is done, I'm praying it is nothing more serious or more money, $200 is enough after what I've already thrown into her, grrrrrrrrr, will keep ya posted and let you know everything the new mechanic finds!!! lol Elizabeth

[Elizabeth Ann]

OK, so the new mechanic has redone, distributor is rebuilt, new weights, bushings, etc, also old mechanic put screws thru the cap and it was messed up, and fixed the other man done things as he put it, the car still won't go over 55 with tach reading 35, even if the tach is slightly off that is still to high + the no power issue....he also found a broken brake booster with the vacuum seal broke, I'm picking up booster and master cylinder today!! How much would this affect the performace in the car? ALSO, There is a metal swish/grounding sound coming from the engine when I let off the gas, what could cause this sound? She also has an overheating issue that has started when the tach started reading higher as well. She has a corvette fan with 4 inch adapter instead of a clutch fan, never had a problem with it, could adapter be warped/worn out? Have no more money for mechanics now, it's just me, TIMING ISSUE, the timing is 22 and supposed to be 8 wtf is up with that?

[Elizabeth Ann]

Not sure what to do next, any ideas would be helpful, lol I love my baby and will get her right sooner than later hopefully, Elizabeth Also, the tach has still not been checked and I still wasn't told why the car won't go over 55 without the tach so high, and where is my baa waaaaaaaaa at damnit? Burn the tires in 1, 2 and almost 3 but still rough and no power in 4th? Help!!!

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Elizabeth Ann

, TIMING ISSUE, the timing is 22 and supposed to be 8 wtf is up with that?

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?