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Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music.
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  #31  
Old 09-22-2005, 09:26 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

Quote:
You have what you have i would tell you how to make a world class system
whats that mean?
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  #32  
Old 09-22-2005, 09:33 PM
black94 black94 is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

if you wanna throw in tweeters high performance subs,equalizer, strike caps, all new mids, sound dampening on the whole car to where it is crisp but hard hitting when needed. And of course and amp that would push those subs.
In earlier comments of others under powered subs sound like crap and in my words would get more "bang" out of 6x9's
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  #33  
Old 09-22-2005, 11:33 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

Hmm should i get the new head unit for 162 shipped

or a refurb, for 146? both are the same head unit

on ebay
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  #34  
Old 09-22-2005, 11:46 PM
black94 black94 is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

well with something like this i would usually go new, but if they have a good rating you could go with refurb. 16 bucks more. weigh your options. Do any of them come with a warranty of any kind. Or if you could show me witch one it is on ebay
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  #35  
Old 09-22-2005, 11:50 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

ya both have warranties

Heres the new one

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-PANASONIC-CQ...QQcmdZViewItem

and the refurb

http://cgi.ebay.com/Panasonic-CQ-C73...QQcmdZViewItem

i just noticed the refurb isnt buy it now

there was a buy it now refurb for 153 shipped, same people
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Old 09-23-2005, 12:04 AM
black94 black94 is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

refurb will be ok. That 90 day factory warranty is better than the new guys. The other guys require more paperwork. Most likely you will not run into problems though. I had bought a clarion screen about two years back and it didn't work sent it back three weeks later got a new one in, worked great. Sometimes it happens though. I was sweating though cause that would of been 1100 down the drain.

Hope this will aid in your decision
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Old 09-23-2005, 12:12 AM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

dang ya i shoulda just boughten the buy it now refurb for 153 shipped, cuz ill have to bid on the other ones and itll probly go over that price, and i have to wait 3 days
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:17 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

ok ill just buy the new one cuz i cant wait lol

But ya ok i figured out how to route my wires to the trunk, one question though, How the hell do u get wires through the hole in the firewall (the rubber grommet hole is sooo small)

and how the heck do i get wires (the speaker and turn on wires) to the head unit? like how do i route the wires to get behind the head unit?
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  #39  
Old 09-23-2005, 09:29 PM
black94 black94 is offline
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You should still have your factory harness. Purchase a separate harness for that model car and and connect with butt connectors to cd player harness. For routing power cable, you might have to drill a hole or try to squeeze it in that one. Also there is a blue wire you must route to the amplifier which comes from the cd player telling the amp when to turn on.Separate this wire from all others for it may cause interference.
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Old 09-24-2005, 12:32 AM
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

ya i know the power cable should go on one side (driver side most of the time) and the turn on and the amp conections cable should be on the opposite side

but what i need to know is, how the hell do the amp connections and turn on cables get to the back of the head unit?
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Old 09-24-2005, 12:51 AM
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

wow theres alot of shit in this forum for one there is a HU that can power a small sub off the rear channel so if you power the rears with an amp then that doesnt matter its a panasonic (granted it might not sound great but it will work). By small im saying an 8 or a 10 at like 100rms or something like a JLw0. For the battery terminal you just connect it to the bolt on the battery + on your cars hanress. For the hole you can what i have had to do in many cases or drill a hole. For the ruber grommet take a flat head screwdriver and gently dont forc it through or you can cut a wire or mess up the harness. After you got it through take some duct tape or electric tape and wrap the wire to the screw driver and pull it through slowly so it doesnt rip off worker nicely on my blazer, didnt have the time to drill the hole or the tools at hand. After that just pul the wire to about the length you need in the engine bay for it to connect to the battery with the fuse conector. If some says bs to this i did this with 2 gauage wire and i ahve had any problems. As for drilling you can buy a drill bit to the right size or go look for a Uni-bit it looks like a cone with steps in it these can be very helpful for car audio drill it the the size of the wire and most likely the kit should include a grommet that snaps into the the hole to keep it from cutting the wire.

For the rcas and remote wire hookup your HU wiring guide should have a list of what color wire is what and your remote is always blue you can alos use the power antenna wire for this. Running your remote with your rcas will have little to know effect on engine whine or such in your amp, directed sells some rcas with the remote in the center of the wires very nice for routing considering all you do is run the rcas and pull the wire out and strip what you need to connect it. Never route your power wire next to rcas always run the rcas down the opposite side of the cars electric harness for the taillights or the whatever there may be that gets power in the rear of the vehicle, this can give you horrible engine whine. on most cars its generally on the drivers side so put your power wire on that side. As for the gorund make sure you snad the paint away from the metal and mak your ground as short as possible i know it sounds dumb but the shorter the ground the better your amp can perform only because the shorter the ground the less distance the current has to travel before completing the dc circuit.

For sound dampening look into edesigns, dynamat, or thees some other brands that have pretty good stuff, remember that and type of sound dampening mat is usually sticky as fuck and if you let it touch itself you generally just wasted a piece of the mat. You can use cardboard or a big piece of paper for a template so you can get the exact size and shape you need to fit it where it goes. Very helpful on trunke because of the braces in the deck lid. As for ebay i bought my entire first system off ebay with no problems excpet overpowering a sub and frying the HU when i totaled my car, payed like 800 for what should have been close to 1200-1300 for everything. For tweeters get a component system that way you can put your speakers where they belong or make pods and put the tweets where ever you want for aiming. I know all of thsi can be very confusing at first it took me a little while and a shit load of research on the web through forums, reviews, actualy seeing the product in action before i decided on what i wanted. What makes all this funny is that i went from the 800 system to 2-12" subs i payed 50 bucks for and an amp from the smae guy for 50 and like 40 bucks for some wood and suplies and i made 2 polks from about 94 or 96 hit above 130db.

Do some research its good that your asing questins because just jumping into something is a bad idea if you dont know what your doing, but good luck with everything look around for what you need and look at how that product performs and what you need.
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Don't ever look at cars as just imports or domestics. Just because a car is made in a certain country doesn't mean that it is anything like another car from that country. An example of this is Mitsubishi reliability, just because they are Japanese doesn't mean that they are as reliable as a Honda or Toyota.

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  #42  
Old 09-24-2005, 01:44 AM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

hey i think the rca cable my dad has (and that i was using as my wire to test my routing to my trunk) it has the 2 rca connectors and a seperate O ring/crimp ring type thing, and the same on the other end, so im guessing that would act as the rca and the turn on?

Too bad its too short, its like a 5 foot cable

How do i get my wires to the back of my head unit?
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  #43  
Old 09-24-2005, 07:31 AM
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To get the rcas connected the the HU you need to remove the HU from the dash, not full removal just enough room so that you can slide the rcas down through the back to the carpet so you can run them to the rear. Getting them through the back of the dash can be hard on some vehicles and easy on others, not sure on a lumina if its like a cavalier it might take some time (my girls car was a bitch).

In some cases if you can slide a wire hanger up through the dash to an area under the dash that you can run the wires you can also slide it down as long as it gets to both ends. After you manage to wiggle the damn thing through the wires be gentle it could be bad if you accidentally nic a wire and it contacts the chassis later, after this you just tape the rcas to the hanger and pull on the hanger. Be very easy with this if you hurt the connectors on the end of the rcas you might mess the cable up. After all this connect the rcas to the HU there might be more than one set of jacks so make sure you know which ones you need they would be labeled subwoofer, rear, and front the front and the rears are pretty much the same but if your into tuning through the HU so the sound works right when your adjusting the speakers. If you have 1 or 2 sets then dont worry about it unless one says sub.

Now that you have the rcas through the dash you can run the wire to the place where your putting your amp, reinstall the cd player and hook up the amp. You might want to run the remote wire at the same time so your not digging through the dash again. I did my blazer in about 4 hours i removed almost the entire interior all 3 seats and a nice section of carpet but it was worth it cant see any wires.
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Cant remember who posted it but if you see it give yourself credit

Don't ever look at cars as just imports or domestics. Just because a car is made in a certain country doesn't mean that it is anything like another car from that country. An example of this is Mitsubishi reliability, just because they are Japanese doesn't mean that they are as reliable as a Honda or Toyota.

Cardomain
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  #44  
Old 09-24-2005, 08:04 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

ya i know how to run the wires through the side, i just have no idea how to get infront of the passenger seat and then to the back of the unit and crap ill check it out
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  #45  
Old 09-25-2005, 09:38 PM
Bboy_Jon Bboy_Jon is offline
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Re: Installing my a new cd player and a sub

woot i ordered my cd player this morning, should get it wed or thurs i think
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