is there any way to make ur gst spyder faster with out buying any parts?

[Shpyder]

I cannot beleive Whathits14 is talking about AERO-fckin-DYNAMICS here. Are we talking about an F-16 or a street going vehicle with 4 wheels? To be talking about aerodynamics at this stage of the game means you obviously think that those ricey aluminum spoiler gives u insane downforce...at 20mph. Right? Jackass.

your turbo doesn't even flow enough air to use a FMIC!!! You might think you are going "nuts" on the road, but in fact you probably *lost* performance with the front mount; your gases were too hot and they slowed down a lot going through the intercooler that was designed for a turbo that flows more. You had a FMIC that wan't made to flow small amonts of air, and in turn was most likely LESS efficent than the stock sidemount. The only squeeze room you would have with that thing would be you wouldent heat sink it like the side mount. What do you call "going nuts"? You certainly couldent take out a mustang, camaro or even a gsx with light mods. Running 17psi on your stock turbo just proves the fact that you dont' know shit.

I went on the street and DID 17 psi and NOTICED insane performance gains before BLOWING my turbo after 2 months, you bench-racing little TURD. I had my car pull on a fucking Cobra, a turbo 240 (SR20DET) and a fucking type-R VSPEC, you ass cake. Stop shoving "theoretical" shit towards me, as I went out and actually DID 17 psi on a stock turbo. My friends even thought I had upgraded my turbo. Plus, spyderturbo007 just jumped your little ass with technical jargon that your entire clan wouldnt be able to decipher for the next decade, so go and chill out in the Honda forum before you grow some gonads and think of returning here. Getting a chinese evo iii turbo for $250 and going to an engine shop to slap it on and putting "GOT BOOST?!?!" decals over your front windshield isnt what this forums about, kiddo.

The spyder is heaver, but also a LOT slower than a stock GST. You couldent be farther from the truth in saying you wouldent tell the differnce. Ill make you a deal, Ill take off all my shit, match yours and we will see whos is faster. THEORETICALLY the spyder is slower. Well that THEORY is correct and has been proven

PROVEN? Gimme some time slips. Listen man, dont embarass yourself any further. A GS-T Spyder and a GS-T coupe are not noticably different, stock VS stock, in terms of performance. You know why? I've driven BOTH, stock for stock. I think youre confusing the 4G64 Spyder with the 4G63T Spyders. But you wouldnt know anything about that because you didnt even know that Spyders were ECLIPSES in the first place.

[JoeWagon]

I spent too much time trying to find an argument to discuss, but all I found was replying to insults... so I don't want to read any more. closed.

Whathits14, here are some tips:
1. spelling and grammar. As much as I love to decode internet slang, I'd rather have a mature read on technical info, with mistakes, than someone who doesn't try. didn't say it was you.
2. using quotes code instead of quotation marks. you can probably figure this out if you get paid $20 an hour to work on computers.
3. Make less silly suggestions. This thread, you told someone to sell their convertable because it's too heavy. For the record weight doesn't count on the top end, and a stripped civic hatch weighs far less than most DSMs... people choose what they like. I don't like to see stuff like "get a ball bearing turbo", "don't run over 14psi" or "convertable has more drag" because they are all false. ball bearing is over-rated from what I've heard 95 GSXracer experienced, I have dyno charts proving 21psi on a T25 yields more horsepower, and the convertable has the same drag as the hard top -- why would the material of an object (where the surface area into the wind is maybe 5% of total surface area on the front end) affect it's drag?