sanding

[movin2stereo]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

Movin2 I'm just wondering, how does the ajax or comet compair to the scuff pads?

I would almost imagine that it's better in the tight area's

Just out of curiousosity, how long have you been working at bodywork?

And of course everyone except jerry phats knows that your this forum's leading edge athority on autobody, and we all trust your advice

newbie's... I tell ya

Ajax or Comet is cheap compared to the regular scuff gels and does just about the same job,but the scuffing gels are better.What the gels do and/or Ajax or Comet is clean,degrease,and aids in scuffing(that grit you feel when it's in your hand),and makes the job easier.Use a scuff pad wet with the gel or Ajax,scuff the area,then rinse and dry.You will have a nice clean and dull paint so new paint can stick.Remember to wash before painting though.I have been doing body work,collision for 10 years.And thanks for your kind coment.I try to help anyone with a problem.

[dmbrisket 51]

Originally Posted by movin2stereo

...I try to help anyone with a problem.

you do one hell of a job

[OverBoardProject]

Originally Posted by dmbrisket 51

you do one hell of a job

I second that

[OverBoardProject]

Well lowriderfan187 you'll hate this. I just got a 100 gallon holding tank for my compressor ( + my 40 gallon compressors tank ) and I easily had all the cab of my blazer sanded not counting the roof in under 3 hours today. Using my DA sander.

I'll have to fine sand it still though.

I want to try some chemical paint stripper on the roof to see how it does

I didn't touch the doors, hood or fenders since they are getting replaced

With the proper tools you would have had your truck done equally quick.

But doing all the prep work yourself will save you enough to buy several of those tools

[movin2stereo]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

Well lowriderfan187 you'll hate this. I just got a 100 gallon holding tank for my compressor ( + my 40 gallon compressors tank ) and I easily had all the cab of my blazer sanded not counting the roof in under 3 hours today. Using my DA sander.

I'll have to fine sand it still though.

I want to try some chemical paint stripper on the roof to see how it does

I didn't touch the doors, hood or fenders since they are getting replaced

With the proper tools you would have had your truck done equally quick.

But doing all the prep work yourself will save you enough to buy several of those tools

Careful with the stripper.Make sure you mask all around the roof and plastic your sides.You don't want it to run in your jambs,that would make one hell of a mess.

[OverBoardProject]

Thanks movin2, the truth is that I don't think it'll work but I want to try it in the center first.

It's felt warm here in the sun this week but in the shade it just gets over freezing. So I think that it's too cold. If this paint stripper does work in these weather conditions I would sure have to recommend it

[movin2stereo]

Good call.

[dugie6551]

I am finishing an 84 extended cab and I primered (3 coats) the truck in the summer. I am waiting to decide what colours and what paint scheme I want (and warmer weather).
Anyways, I was welding some holes in the bed rails (from the previous owner and an UGLY topper !!) and welded, filled and sanded the rails with 120 grit. Well I ran out of 120 and grabbed some 320 (or 340 grit) and finished sanding the filler areas and was amazed at how smooth the bed rails were, that I got carried away and ended up sanding the entire side of the bed, DAMN I hate when that happens !!!

Now I've got to rattle can primer the side of the truck and wait to finish the body sanding. But, OH BABY, is that bed side smooth !!!!!!!!!

[EXTREME02]

Have you tried stripper. aircraft stripper work wonders, but its messy and you have to recondition the metal after wards

[movin2stereo]

Originally Posted by EXTREME02

Have you tried stripper. aircraft stripper work wonders, but its messy and you have to recondition the metal after wards

What do you mean by recondition?

[EXTREME02]

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.

[OverBoardProject]

Actually the striper that I'm hoping on trying just sayes to clean up with water.

If it works impressively I'll tell you what it is, but like I said it's really too cold here at the moment where I'll be suprised if the chemical works.

I'll have a better idea how this product works in the summer after stripping some of the paint off my 27 Essex sedan

[dmbrisket 51]

Originally Posted by EXTREME02

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.

you dont have to 'recondition' anything, you have to remove the chemical left behind like you said, i suggest denatured alcohal, its hot enough that it dries quick enough not to leave a film behind, and some good elbow grease to go with it and you will be fine.

[movin2stereo]

Originally Posted by EXTREME02

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.

LOL.Yes I have taken I-Car classes and PPG classes and Martin Senour classes and this is the first I've heard of this.The stripper cleans up with water(says that right on the can,no class needed ).Then you sand the metal,I like to use 180.Was down with a solvet.Then you prime with a self ecthing primer ,now that I learned that at all the classes I took.