CV Joints "How Long Does Yours Last"

[Brian R.]

Depends mostly on what kind of roads you drive on and whether you get salt on your roads in the winter.

[Brian R.]

Originally Posted by Po Pilot

How easy is it to change the half shafts? I have a friend with a 96 that needs hers changed badly - both sides.

Not too difficult - Consult the FAQ post

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...2&postcount=22

[vicchang]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Depends mostly on what kind of roads you drive on and whether you get salt on your roads in the winter.

If the shaft is the original, it's better you keep it and replace the boot. The original lasts much longer than reman ones.

[Brian R.]

Not if the joint is contaminated, which it probably is. Remanufactured half-shafts vary alot in quality. You buy from a reputable rebuilder, and you get a shaft as good as the original. If you don't know who to buy from, you don't know what you will get. You should talk to a mechanic (since they normally install remanufactured shafts) and find out where they buy their shafts from.

[vicchang]

It doesn't matter if it's contaminated or not. What matters is if the joint is worn. If the joint doesn't make any noise yet, it's very possible it's still in good condition. All you need is patience and know how to take it apart, clean it up, put it together carefully and put in new CV joint grease and seal with a new boot. Takes time and skill, so if you don't have that kind of profession, don't try it.

Buying reman shaft is not a bad idea actually. It's much easier to replace. But you are on your luck to get a shaft with a good CV joint. Just like brian said, it varys a lot in quality. Even good manufacturers can have low quality reman shafts. I have a friend bought 1 shafts from NAPA and 1 from Olympus Imported Auto Parts, both with lifetime warranty (good enough?), one lasted 2 years and clunking noise came out while the boot is still in good shape, samething happened to another one shortly. He had to replace both. So even if you know who to buy from, you still don't know what you will get. You are on your luck.

I know it's a good idea to keep the original shaft if it's not worn because that's what my dad did. I had seen him replaced 4 boots on 2 vehicles couple years ago even the boots cracked for months (one he said had been leaking for 2 years). All the shafts were original and still runs great so far. He knows how to tell if the joint is still good and he know how to do the job. If you are interested to learn, I can ask him how.

[Brian R.]

It does matter if it's contaminated because, like you said, then you need skills.

[ProMan]

Originally Posted by vicchang

It doesn't matter if it's contaminated or not. What matters is if the joint is worn. If the joint doesn't make any noise yet, it's very possible it's still in good condition. All you need is patience and know how to take it apart, clean it up, put it together carefully and put in new CV joint grease and seal with a new boot. Takes time and skill, so if you don't have that kind of profession, don't try it.

Buying reman shaft is not a bad idea actually. It's much easier to replace. But you are on your luck to get a shaft with a good CV joint. Just like brian said, it varys a lot in quality. Even good manufacturers can have low quality reman shafts. I have a friend bought 1 shafts from NAPA and 1 from Olympus Imported Auto Parts, both with lifetime warranty (good enough?), one lasted 2 years and clunking noise came out while the boot is still in good shape, samething happened to another one shortly. He had to replace both. So even if you know who to buy from, you still don't know what you will get. You are on your luck.

I know it's a good idea to keep the original shaft if it's not worn because that's what my dad did. I had seen him replaced 4 boots on 2 vehicles couple years ago even the boots cracked for months (one he said had been leaking for 2 years). All the shafts were original and still runs great so far. He knows how to tell if the joint is still good and he know how to do the job. If you are interested to learn, I can ask him how.

Very good article! You are too professional for others. The forum need more people like you. I admire your opinion, that's what I always try to do -- save parts, save earth, and save money, and make my car run forever.

Way to go! Do you mind let us know more detail about taking apart the CV joint? I feel it's very very precious info for do-it-yourselfers like me.

[Brian R.]

Yes, vicchang - thanks for the input.

[Brian R.]

Here's Toyota's procedure for rebuilding the 5S-FE drive shafts.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild2.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild3.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild4.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild5.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild6.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...DSRebuild7.jpg

[Toysrme]

Both CV joints went stock just after I got the car three years ago. I should change them at some point...


Sean McElligott went through both OEM's stock (E-153 5-speed). Then snapped 2 more replacements once he was running 240-250bhp N/A, plus a 125 & later a 150 n2o shot.




So ya... The CV joints are pretty weak.

[Jimbello]

What brand of silicone spray do you typically use Brian?

I have two Camry's, one in commission and one being wrecked after doing 410,000klms. The drive shafts in the old one being wrecked are still good, possibly original but I don't know. I only replaced a boot on the passenger side of this car once. When cleaning, checking and re-packing it, the CV joint was in excellent condition.
I was astonished at just how good it was.
So, I am a bit surprised to read of the many relatively early failures reported here.

Just a small note for those doing the job of replacing a boot for the first time:
The radial position of the joint that has the three rollers on the spline has to be marked before dissembly. The Toyota service manual describes this. Instead of paint, I made two tiny marks using my dremel on the case hardened steel.

[Brian R.]

I use Gunk silicone lube. I wouldn't use anything to mark the joint except paint or a punch. Using any type of cutting device (including a grinder) may induce stress risers and make a place for cracks to propagate from.