Help With Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

[JoshBarber]

so I don't have to remove it right?!

[blazee]

Nope, but if it wears out prematurely...you know next time torque it to 103ft/lbs

[rlith]

Originally Posted by blazee

98 is the only one in question. Your 2001 should be 103ft/lbs

I was at the dealership today (picking up my e-brake cables) and I stopped in and talked to a tech.... According to the manuals (up to 97) and the pc read outs (98 to current) the torque is indeed 180 ft pounds through all years. He and another tech went on about how a lot of times the torque specs (and some info) is wrong in the haynes/chilton's manuals for that type of thing. They also said, 160 is acceptable and they are actually capable of handling up to 200 without issue. They usually impact wrench them on instead of using a torque wrench... But they said 103 ft pounds is way to low though it won't necessarily hurt the bearing in the short term but it should be tightened up...

The reason I bring this up is a while ago I switched to 2001 front disc/hub/knuckle set ups and I had to buy a new hub and the tag on it said specifically 180 ft pounds. That said I don't understand how haynes/chilton could make such a drastic distinction between a 98 and 99 to current as 98 to current is the exact same setup. The 97-92 are where brakes are different...(just an observation) So at this point I'm more inclined to go with the dealership's reccommendations as they do this stuff far more than we do. Then again, the haynes I have for my 95 states that the torque on the lower intake is 36 ft lbs, where I know for a fact it's 65 ft pounds (at 25 1st pass, 45 second, 65 third with a retorque at 300-500 miles)... Again, just an observation.

[blazee]

I'm only going by Haynes...I know they can be wrong and often are. I wonder where they got the 103ft/lbs from. They say:

Through 1998.....................180
1999 and later....................103

That is why I thought the 98's should be 103ft/lbs because they do indeed have the same hubs as the 99+. After doing some checking of part #s it breaks up like this:

95-97 4wd have the same hub
98+ 4wd and 97 AWD have the same hub

I guess I put way too much time into this issue if chevy says they should all be 180. I would believe chevy over Haynes anyday.

At this point I've got over 9,000 miles on mine so I will leave it alone and see what happens.

[rlith]

Yeah, that's why when I question stuff I find it simpler to call the dealership. The one by me (baierl) is really good about giving info and print outs to me when I need them...(would love to have direct access to their web system)

[blazee]

The one near me isn't helpful at all, I called about this before I started (I didn't see it in the Haynes manual until after I was done) He told me he didn't have time for me, but would have someone call right back.....that was 2 months ago....still waiting for that call. I've already told you about some of the other problems I've had.

[JParrott]

All bets aside, if something were to happen to a vehicle because of under-torqued wheel bearings, wouldn't haynes/chiltons then be liable for false information? One would have to "assume" that the information is correct and wouldn't cause an accident of some kind. I've replaced both of my wheel bearings on my 2000 LS @ 103 lb ft with no problems yet. I can go with a conspiracy theory on the dealership just wanting people to bring it in to them for buisness or can assume that an aftermarket manual will provide correct information. Oh well, I haven't heard anything bad coming from either rating from anyone yet.

[rlith]

Any time you do something yourself, you do so at your own risk... I would even bet there are similar disclaimers in the haynes/chilton manuals.

It would be like me saying...

Goto the hobby shop, pick up some model rocketry fuse, run it through a hose in your gas tank, light it 10 seconds before you drag! Incredible mod!!! Guaranteed for 200 hp for 10 seconds, better than nitrous!!!

Now.... Common sense would tell you that either 1, it would just go poof because of a full gas tank... or 2 a half empty gas tank might go boom! Now if you take this advice it would be at your own risk...

The way I look at it anyway...

[blazee]

Originally Posted by rlith

Goto the hobby shop, pick up some model rocketry fuse, run it through a hose in your gas tank, light it 10 seconds before you drag! Incredible mod!!! Guaranteed for 200 hp for 10 seconds, better than nitrous!!!

Thanks for the tip man!!! I'm going to try it tonight!!!

SWEET!!!!

[rlith]

heh... Have fun, let us know how it turned out! LOL

[tcjimmy]

Just replaced passenger side hub assembly on 2000 blazer now abs light stays on. Checked the conections everythig is tight where do I go from here?

[muzzy1maniac]

It's pretty wild just how many people out there need to replace bearings! I have to do mine this weekend! Wish me luck - it's the first thing on my new 98 that i'll be doing! The list is very long...

[rlith]

Originally Posted by muzzy1maniac

It's pretty wild just how many people out there need to replace bearings! I have to do mine this weekend! Wish me luck - it's the first thing on my new 98 that i'll be doing! The list is very long...

Don't forget, torque them to 180 ft pounds or you will be doing them again!

[royceb]

I'm doing my bearings on a 2004 Chevy S10 crew cab. only has 50,000 on it and it gave out. does everything still apply to what everyone said about installing and the torq specs?

[rlith]

yep