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#31 | ||
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: SF, California
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Re: Re: Clutch engage point..
Quote:
You are way out of your league, bud. Sure, you can drive the car like a pussy. Buy a fucking Geo if you want to double-clutch all day. If you double clutched all the time...what would the point of having synchros be, smart guy? Whatever college you go/went to, they must not be accredited ![]() Do you know anything about racing? They don't make parts that let you run sub-1.5 second 60' times without breaking after a few runs. Enjoy your life of car maintenance on mini-vans and station wagons. It sounds like you'll really be able to help soccer moms avoid wear and tear on their cars ![]() P.S. Thanks for defining "demeanor" for us in you earlier post. With a genius level vocabularly like that, it's hard to understand what you're saying ![]() ![]() Oh yea, almost forgot.... ![]()
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1996 Eagle Talon |
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#32 | |
AF - Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 6,342
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This is the probably the first time I went off the deep end on this forum. But before you come out with the Doctor Phil bullshit, lets take a look at what really happened.
This was a thread about clutch engagement points. You claimed that the adjustment rod is used to adjust the engagement point after so many miles. False. I replied with a civil and respectful post correcting the misinformation you are spreading, even admiting that I use it for that once in a while with a smiley face. Then you reply saying that you are "supposed to double clutch." Again, completely false. We've been fighting that myth since F&F came out, WTF. Then I replied, still within reason. Your next response however was very defensive and attacking my knowledge of these cars. Not the brightest thing you've done since you joined this fine forum. I didn't go to college to learn about cars, I can do that on my own. I work on multimillion dollar machinery in the semiconductor industry for a living, not minivans. Working on cars is just a hobby for me. ![]() If you meant to say "double clutching may extend synchro life by some amount, but I have not personally tested it and have no hard data that proves the theory," just say it. I think it is your piss poor communication skills that got you into this mess, in adition to posting misinformation and riding my ballbag. I will not tolerate spreading misinformation. If I have to call a couple FNGs faggots, ball bag swingers, cocksuckers, and pillow biters, I will. ![]()
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#33 | |||
AF - Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Re: Clutch engage point..
And don't waste my times with PMs like this:
Quote:
Quote:
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#34 | |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Whitetown
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Re: Clutch engage point..
lol wow joe, you just said everything that I already explained. Please read the posts before jumping ahead and sounding ridiculous. And if you found the definition of demeanor useful, then glad to help.
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#35 | |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Whitetown
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Re: Clutch engage point..
As for you 95 GSX, you need to go back and read before you throw a hissy fit...READ THE QUESTION ASKED: How do you change clutch engagement point AT THE PEDAL!!! So I answered. Please go back and read. And some one said that they liked to shift as fast as possible. And I simply said, that's the reason that syncho's break. And then you jumped in and said that was bullshit, but failed to give me the reason that they do break, and pawned it off on normal wear and tear. And now you're getting into even further ignorance to what was said, so i'll discontinue this now and let the mod's handle it. I get the feeling you got abused as a child with all the namecalling, but so you know it doesn't bug me at all
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#36 | |
Testiklees
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Re: Clutch engage point..
After reading the pm's you sent him, you sound like a hypocrite to me.
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Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031 ![]() |
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#37 | |||
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: SF, California
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Re: Re: Clutch engage point..
Quote:
And yes--I did write something you already explained. I had to reiterate (defined: "repeat again", for Einstein the mechanic) your point because you obviously don't undertand its application. You make the intelligent jump and venture to say that you aren't promoting double-clutching all the time, because that would make synchromesh transmissions obsolete. Yet you encouraged people to double-clutch early in the thread, and condemned fast shifting. You'd probably argue that one should always use only candles for light, because light bulbs might burn out. Or people should walk barefoot, very slowly, because if they wear shoes and jog or run anywhere, the soles will wear out. Most of what you've written in this thread so far is extremely hypocritical, and your attitude toward being questioned and corrected as been less than humble, especially when you are a guest in a forum with established members who want nothing but to respect eager auto enthusiasts, and be respected back. It would be nice if the sharing of accurate and useful information could go on, instead of bullshit bickering like this, and opinionated responses represented as fact, like you posted earlier. Oh, and anther part of a post I didn't read in this thread: Quote:
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1996 Eagle Talon |
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#38 | ||
AF Enthusiast
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Location: Camp Hill, Pennsylvania
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Re: Re: Clutch engage point..
Quote:
I am by no means a transmission expert, but with a little research one can easily determine that you are blowing smoke. Here are the reasons and appropriate times to double clutch: Double-clutching was common in older cars and is still common in some modern race cars. In double-clutching, you first push the clutch pedal in once to disengage the engine from the transmission. This takes the pressure off the dog teeth so you can move the collar into neutral. Then you release the clutch pedal and rev the engine to the "right speed." The right speed is the rpm value at which the engine should be running in the next gear. The idea is to get the blue gear of the next gear and the collar rotating at the same speed so that the dog teeth can engage. Then you push the clutch pedal in again and lock the collar into the new gear. At every gear change you have to press and release the clutch twice, hence the name "double-clutching." Here is why there is NO REASON to double clutch with a syncromesh transmission: Manual transmissions in modern passenger cars use synchronizers to eliminate the need for double-clutching. A synchro's purpose is to allow the collar and the gear to make frictional contact before the dog teeth make contact. This lets the collar and the gear synchronize their speeds before the teeth need to engage. Notice the word "eliminate" in the above statement. Since you seem to have problems with definitions here you go: e·lim·i·nate: To get rid of; remove In closing (now that I have officially wiped the floor with your face), You should probably consider trying to get a refund on your "Professional Training". ![]()
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#39 | |
Funding the welfare state
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After reading the thread, I don't get the sense that anyone is saying that you must double clutch. One post came close and a few people here acted like their mother was raped.
The last post is quoting http://www.howstuffworks.com/transmission4.htm It says that double clutching is not necessary - it does not say there was no benefit to it. It will extend the live of the syncros if you do it. Sure its not a lot, but there is some. The name calling ends now. If people can't disagree without taking potshots at other members, then perhaps you should take the advice of several members, who should heed their own advice, and shut the fuck up Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
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