Problem with a 4.3

[PBking82]

Well, just had the battery tested and its kaput! Got a brand new one for free though so thats good. Any chance that my Alternator isn't gone too? Also, if I connect this new battery and my alternator is bad will it screw up the battery? Sorry about all the (probobly)stupid questions, but I am not one for working on electrical systems as to bad prior experiances. I.E. installing new cables on a friends car and then getting knocked out for like a 1/2 hour due to electrical shock. Thanks-PEace

[BlazerLT]

Yes, test the voltage on the battery while the truck is running and see if it is around 14.2-14.4 volts.

Take the alternator in and get it load tested.

[chcknugget]

HOw did you manage to shock yourself? -Just curious

[PBking82]

Oh well that is quite an interesting story that involves hillbilly friends and lots of beer. I was over at my friends farm and we were just havin a good time when he decided that it was the perfect time to run new cables from the alternator, starter, and battery. Well, while i was running the positive to the starter he had allready connected the negative of the battery to the frame and also connected my end of cable to the positive side of the battery(of course without telling me). Next thing I know its like POOF!! I wake up awhile later and my friends are like DUDE! WE THOUGHT YOU WERE DEAD!!!! funny story now, not so funny at the time. -Peace

[PBking82]

Just took the alternator and got it tested; its good putting out 15v. So hopefully this problem was just the battery and nothing. About to put it back together and find out. -Peace

[PBking82]

HURAH!! it works. I can't believe the only problem was the battery! And the retard at a local chevy dealer was like "its yer remote start, those damn things aren't designed to work with these cars; go get it taken out." -Peace

[BlazerLT]

Make sure you charge the new battery up to completely full.

They only come at about 70-80% charged.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by PBking82

HURAH!! it works. I can't believe the only problem was the battery! And the retard at a local chevy dealer was like "its yer remote start, those damn things aren't designed to work with these cars; go get it taken out." -Peace

You could just emagine how my life is being an owner of a shop that specializes in remote starters. I hate dealer that lays blame on anything aftermarket without correctly addressing the problems. You people would be very surprised how many things show up with bad batteries, altinators or even bad wires to the altinator. Had one the other day which was a 1 ton dually with a diesel. The truck wouldn't charge. Had newer batteries and a brand new altinator. The guy would drive around for awhile then hook it to a charger. Everyone said it was the remote starter. I looked at it and had it fixed within 10 minutes. It was the little plastic plug on the side of the altinator. When these things get some miles on them, the wire inside the connector breaks right at the connector. You can't see it because it is under the insulation. GM tech said he "checked" it but it was fine. The problem is that most people jam a test probe where the wire goes into the plug which is exactly were it breaks. So, when you do it that way, you complete the broken circuit. If he had tested the wire about 4" away from the plug, he would have found it.

[PBking82]

Oh, I totaly believe that. This tech at my local chevy dealer wouldn't even look at my blazer. I told him i had the remote start for a year and no problems whatsoever. I even had to get AAA to flatbed it home from the dealer because it wouldn't start when I went to leave. And because I didn't buy it at this dealer, they were like "not our problem." -Peace

[Fireplug]

Mikado14
If you have ever read any GM repair manuals you will find the word "parasitic drain in a lot of places.
When dealing with voltage drops and stuff like that.
Thank a amp meter and place it in line with the pos cable and read what the milli amp draw is. If it over a set amount then its called a parasitic drain.
Fireplug

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Fireplug

Mikado14
If you have ever read any GM repair manuals you will find the word "parasitic drain in a lot of places.
When dealing with voltage drops and stuff like that.
Thank a amp meter and place it in line with the pos cable and read what the milli amp draw is. If it over a set amount then its called a parasitic drain.
Fireplug

Thank you.

[Mikado14]

Thanks Fireplug, unfortunately I haven't read any GM manuals. Only Mitchells and have never run across it. All I wanted was a clarification to it's usage and apparently some have taken a question I posed in a personal light. It was never intended that way and I apologize for raising a question in a forum designed for questions to receive an explanation, again, I apologize and am totally admonished for apparently asking a stupid question.

[BlazerLT]

Oh stop acting all wounded....

You said I was not saying it politically correct so what the hell was I supposed to get from that.

[Mikado14]

I give you a truthful answer and an apology for raising a ruckus and you still find it necessary to berate and belittle. Cobra1 was right.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Mikado14

I give you a truthful answer and an apology for raising a ruckus and you still find it necessary to berate and belittle. Cobra1 was right.

No, you put on a wounded show like I somehow took things out of control when I was just sticking up for myself and my explanations for my terminology.

Your apology is literally soaked with sarcasm and I easily caught it.

Oh, and now you are going to side with a prick that physically threatened me? Good, you can be on the ignore list just lke him.