Passlock System

[UnhappyImpalaOwner]

Last night I looked up under the dash I saw the Impala BCM, but its not easy to get to. I removed a panel held on by clips and then there was another panel held on by screws. Is this the knee knocker? This sounds like a different (better) way then removing the radio (here is a site that describes how to get the radio out -seems like alot of work -
http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/Dash.html )

Also any opinion of not using the exact resistance and the system learning that new resistance? The GrandAm site used a 2.2K resistor and had the system relearn.

Thanks for the help and the time it takes to describe these details.

[DE5PA1R]

I tried the suggestion on the first page; turned the vehicle on, cut the yellow wire, turned the vehicle off. Now my car won't start. I considered this site to be a reliable source of information. Was I wrong or did someone just really want to piss me off?

[ponchonutty]

Well, if you had followed any of what I've said I don't recomend just to cut that yellow wire. If you had read along you'd find that I recomend to use the resistor method after doing some simple checking of items. Lastly, not all Passlock issues are due to the decoder in the ignition. Some are BCM related inwhich any sort of bypass won't work. Also, even if the simple "cut the yellow wire" trick worked it eventually would fail especially when you have to change the car's battery or if the battery went dead.

[DE5PA1R]

What's a resistor and where do I buy one?

[torpedo238]

I had the same problem with my 99 Alero. There is corrosion on the connector pins on the ignition switch. I pull the ignition switch out, cleaned the connector, and coated the pins with bulb grease. Two months trouble free. Check out this link. http://general-motors.pissedconsumer...502119601.html

[UnhappyImpalaOwner]

Originally Posted by torpedo238

I had the same problem with my 99 Alero. There is corrosion on the connector pins on the ignition switch. I pull the ignition switch out, cleaned the connector, and coated the pins with bulb grease. Two months trouble free. Check out this link. http://general-motors.pissedconsumer...502119601.html

Here is a site that describes removing the impala ignition switch. Could have more detail and real pictures, but better than nothing.
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-c...s-vt68221.html

[covertcelery]

It looks like we have a similar thread going in the Impala threads section:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...play.php?f=112


I've tried to combine everything into that that I've learned so far on this PK2 issue.


Maybe they should just have a "Security light" thread under "Chevy" - instead of having one for every single model. This seems to affect a lot of GM models.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by DE5PA1R

What's a resistor and where do I buy one?

You need to have someone work on your vehicle if you don't know what a resistor is.

[DE5PA1R]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

You need to have someone work on your vehicle if you don't know what a resistor is.

1) I don't have any money.

2) Gotta start somewhere.

[AF_Dali]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well, if you had followed any of what I've said I don't recomend just to cut that yellow wire. If you had read along you'd find that I recomend to use the resistor method after doing some simple checking of items. Lastly, not all Passlock issues are due to the decoder in the ignition. Some are BCM related inwhich any sort of bypass won't work. Also, even if the simple "cut the yellow wire" trick worked it eventually would fail especially when you have to change the car's battery or if the battery went dead.

ponchonutty:

My 97 Malibu anti-theft start-up problem had been annoying me for a very long time. This week, I fixed it using your method!

I started my car first, then cut the yellow wire, measured the reistance value using a multimeter, found a same value resistor and connected it as instructed. The anti-theft light was gone, and no start-up problem since then.

The only difference is that the resistor that I used is 6.25KOhm.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by AF_Dali

My 97 Malibu anti-theft start-up problem had be annoying me for a very ling time. This week, I fixed it using your method!

I started my car first, then cut the yellow wire, measure the reistance value using a multimeter, find a same value resistor and connect it as instructed. The anti-theft light is gone, and no start-up problem since then.

The only difference is that the resistor that I used is 6.25KOhm.

The resistance will be different on just about every GM car made. I remember back when these units first came out DEI had made a manual bypass in which you flipped a series of dip switches to make it match the value needed. If I remember it was something like 30,000 different values you could come up with.

Glad you could get it going again.

[AF_Dali]

Hello ponchonutty:

Your posts of diagnosis and solutions regarding the start-up problem of GM Chevrolet Malibu brought by the anti-theft system saved me $1000 or more!

All those dealers or garages' solutions are to rob me by suggesting to change the fuel pump, starters, ignition switch, ignition coil, battery.... The cost would be more than $1000! Dishonest and Greedy!

I tried the simplest solution first. I cleaned the key and the ignition switch thoroughly with metal contact cleaner, but it did not help. Then I used your method and fixed the problem in 2 hours. Since it's my first time to do it, I did it slowly and cautiously. The problem is gone and the total cost is $0.00! It is a very happy surprise to me!

I also disconnected the battery and reconnected it after 1 hour, the car started smoothly without any problem!.

I would recommend those whose vehicle have the same problem to try your solution and follow your instructions.

Once again, thanks a lot!

[AD2BU]

Well, I had the no-start issue but now I have a new issue. Like many here, I neede a quick fix and so I just cut the yellow wire to get things going. I went back a few weeks later to try to "fix" it with the resistor and now I can't get the theft light to go off. Basically, the car always starts and the theft light is always on. Since the car always starts, I can't reprogram the system.

I checked voltage coming back on the yellow wire at the BCM and got no voltage. I checked resistance while cranking and got 1.8kOhms. Tried putting a resistor in that was close ~2.2kOhms and the car still starts with the theft light on. Tried reconnecting the yellow wire and the car still starts with the theft light on. The battery is fairly new, so I'm not concerned with a battery replacement problem right now. But, I can't live with a dash light on! I guess maybe I could see a shrink to get over my hangup with idiot lights...

Maybe someone has an idea? I'm thinking the BCM could be bad. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thank you all.

[AF_Dali]

Originally Posted by AD2BU

Well, I had the no-start issue but now I have a new issue. Like many here, I neede a quick fix and so I just cut the yellow wire to get things going. I went back a few weeks later to try to "fix" it with the resistor and now I can't get the theft light to go off. Basically, the car always starts and the theft light is always on. Since the car always starts, I can't reprogram the system.

I checked voltage coming back on the yellow wire at the BCM and got no voltage. I checked resistance while cranking and got 1.8kOhms. Tried putting a resistor in that was close ~2.2kOhms and the car still starts with the theft light on. Tried reconnecting the yellow wire and the car still starts with the theft light on. The battery is fairly new, so I'm not concerned with a battery replacement problem right now. But, I can't live with a dash light on! I guess maybe I could see a shrink to get over my hangup with idiot lights...

Maybe someone has an idea? I'm thinking the BCM could be bad. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thank you all.

It is important to use resistor with resistance value close to the one that you measured, or the Anti-Theft light will still be on. 2.2kOhm is a little far away from 1.8kOhm. You can use multiple resistors in parallel or serial to get the resistance close to 1.8kOhm.

Good Luck!

[ponchonutty]

Af Dali, glad I could help. Man, if I could get $1.00 per person I've helped on here I'd be looking at checking statement that would actually be in the black instead of the red!!!

ad2bu, yeah you gotta get the resistance closer than that. 1.85k ohms would be the highest I'd go. The BCM knows there's an issue with the system now so even if you were spot on, the light may stay on for a few days or until you unhook the battery. DON'T UNHOOK THE BATTERY unless you know for sure you've got it right. Also, make sure to use a good quality meter too. You may even want to switch the leads around or take one lead to chassis ground when testing it to see if there's any difference.