1995 Chevy Blazer starting issue

[old_master]

If you hot wire it at the relay, (make sure you use an inline fuse) you can monitor it there. Don't start the engine, just let the pump run. It won't hurt anything, the fuel will circulate from the pump across the injectors, through the regulator and back to the tank. The injectors will not open, (unless the engine is cranking) so it won't flood. The orange wire has B+ at all times and the grey wire goes to the pump.

[westell313]

I'm picking up an ac delco pump tomorrow but don't have time to install until Monday. But once its in I will make sure to post my results I'm hoping for the best i really want to keep this car its in such great shape and low miles. I have pictures from the past and after driven the vehicle was right at 14v (took picture when getting an alignment for some reason after it comes off the machine alternator wouldn't charge battery. Low voltage always happened with rear defrost on. So I am hoping this fuel pump is causing my problems. Or my electrical problem started then.

[old_master]

When you have the pump out, check the electrical connector at the pump module. There's a known issue with high resistance and the heat melts the connector. Most of the replacement pumps come with the new style connector and it should be soldered on to the vehicle harness. Don't use the crimp connectors that the new plug comes with. The old style connector is square, the new style is a flat oval shape.

[westell313]

The dealer sells a new wire kit for it. Not the whole thing from front to back just a 2 foot cord from connector to connector I am gonna get that as well just so its new. I know whats under there has been out for 15 years and we get some crappy winters around here. So it wont hurt to change that as well?

[old_master]

If all it needs is the connector at the pump module, don't bother with the wire kit from the dealer, use the one that comes with the pump...save your money.

[westell313]

I'm going to be putting this pump in this monday coming up. There are no wires that come with the pump. Its a small pump and a couple little tubes and instructions. I know the newer pumps come in the whole assembly that spins on the top of the tank this one is just the pump that goes into that assembly. So pretty much the wires on the top are not changed. Im not sure how to explain it really what comes out of the tank the full assembly. The pump goes on the bottom of this assembly and everything goes back in. The wire kits they sell are for outside the tank. This new pump is in a rubber foam sleeve the one in it now is not in one these. And the pump sides are all steel. I have not gotten into it yet but i believe the small two wire connector that goes to the pump is submerged. I'll tell you everything i find out once i get in to everything to change it, I will also check all wires inside tank and on top for wear bare spots or any melting or just breakdown. I'll keep you posted on it and how it goes when done. I've been driving it fine as long as i don't give it to much throttle it don't pop that fuse. Thanks i will post when finished with it.

[westell313]

I'm not sure if this has any effect on anything. But i was looking over the engine when i changed the tensenor pulley. I noticed some black soot on the intake manifold underneath the throttle and just behind the egr valve. I'm not sure if this hurts anything could egr be leaking a bit of exhaust Maybe not seated all the way. Tensenor didn't make no difference but i noticed there are two different sets of lines and two arrows. One set in center on top and one set off to the passenger side one is lined up one isn't. One off to the side is. I have no idea which set should line up or if thats a tolerance of how loose is to loose.

[westell313]

Changed pump yesterday and still having same problem. It has to be an electrical issue this has not happened until pump was changed. Wires are fine no rips wear or bare wires. Any ideas are helpful if i cant fix this I'm scrapping the car.